JIM
Extreme
I am kind of a perfectionist and am tuning making on my own maps and trying to get the sled to run crisp and clean at any throttle position in the big range of altitude 2000-9000 ft that I ride and am wanting to post a thread to help anyone thats doing the same. I want to share all the important things I have learned and have anyone else post to this that can add to their experience. I want to thank all that have helped me get understand this and taken the time to help!!
* When tuning you have to have knowledge of your compression ratio, cam timing and octain requirements for your altitute. If you have too much octain you will see some sluggish performance. You can seealso see spitting and popping from too much octain. Some mcx kits are running as much as 8-12 degrees of extra timing on the bottum end and you may want alot too if your running higher octain. You will see on the apex that it makes more power with a couple degrees of timing pulled on the top end in your full boost areas.
* Differences in engine, turbo, fuel, and rb3 setting can have an affect an affect on a map. One map may work great in one sled but not the other, it seems these maps are fine tuned to each sled.
* Changing the timing in any area has an affect on the fuel numbers. So if you are adding timing you will want to add fuel in that area and same if you are pulling timing from a map you will need to lean the fuel numbers in that same area to help with proper a/f.
* Mounting the map sensor high, above the throttle bodies pointed down so it doesnt get any oil or moisture build up and so its as close to the boost/vaccum source as possible.
* While tuning if its spitting and poping you have to look at the a/f guage right BEFORE it pops and that's the reading you want to reference and adjust too. Once it has popped and you look down at the a/f its not an accurate reading, it is going to read lean even if the sled is rich. The after the spit and the pop the unburned oxygen is what is causing the a/f to read lean.
* Setting the Min voltages is an important thing to understand. Setting the min volts has an affect on how fast the rb3 moves into the percent collums of the map. So using Turbo keiths load coversion chart
http://www.toyzfortrucks.com/rapidbike_ ... ersion.xls
helps you understand the higher the min volt the faster the rb3 will jump collum So in setting a min volts at 1.66 means the rb3 isnt going to leave the 0% collum and until boost is sensed. Setting a min at 1.1 means you are jumping off idle to the 20% or even 40% column imediatelydepending on what your idle voltage. With a lower volt number means you are making those collums vaccum columns. Now there is different loads on that vaccum column so its nice to tune the 20-10 with the 0% column and 10-0 with the 5% column. This makes for a cleaner bottum end and ridablility in the trees. I have mine set at 1.60 and it seems to work alot better that set at 1.66 The rb3 is going to sense boost and vaccum alot faster than any guage. So your sled can be seeing boost and the guage is still reading 4in. So if your boost gauge reads 8in vaccum and you think you are in the 0% collumn still and tuning there, you are really in the 20% or 40% columns. If you look at the chart it shows volts at the 0 lbs of boost and in what percent column you are in. So is neccessary to understand the lower you set your min volts the farther into the map it jumps as soon as you accelerate off idle. IF you have a idle voltage of 1.26 at 2500 ft at 32 degrees, you wouldnt have to set you min volts at 1.20 You will notice that the rb3 still adjusts fuel and timing even if your low volts isnt set below your idle voltage. The low volt just dictates when the rb3 picks up on your vaccum/boost level. Now setting the volts above 1.67 means you can see boost before the rb3 is jumps in letting the stock injection do its thing.
* Max volts, is also just as important. It you are satisfied with the boost level you are going to run then set you max volts just above that mark and you will have use of the entire map or full resolution and will have an easier time tuning your sled. You can look at the load chart and change the volts and see the changes. A 2 bar sensor is good for a max of 15 lbs and a 3 bar sensor has a max boost level of 29 lbs at 5 volts. A max set at 3.8 is going to let you run 17-18 lbs and have full use of the map. Now if you are runnning 12 lbs and have a max set at 4.25 you are never going to use the last 2-3 colums and makes tuning a bit harder. Harder because you are adjusting a culumn that populates on both sides of the number. So if you are running 12 lbs and you are 71 % on your chart and you are lean, you will want to increase the 80% column which will increase the other side of the 80% column as well. So with a lower voltage that is set for your boost level, you have colums that seem closer together, with make more tuning available. So if you know you are HAPPY with your booost level then play with setting the volts down and see how it works.
* Something that would be nice is a accurate waterproof volt guage that would show what volts you have off the 3 bar map sensor. Since you loose 0.42 % per thousand feet your boost guage is not accurate. It would be nice just to look down and see a voltage and know you're at that boost level acording to the load chart and you can tune that voltage/ column in your map. So a boost vac gauge is nice, but you have keep in mind that as you climb altitude you are needing to subtract 0.42% from your guage per thousand feet. So if you are tuning at 8000 ft and you think your running 12 lbs on your guage you are not at 12 lbs, you are closer to 8-9 lbs and thats why you have to turn up the boost to recover the altitude loss. So your a/f can show its running lean at higher altitudes but what has actually happened it is running in a lower/leaner column. So you should turn your boost up, or run a switch map with more fuel in that column.
* Checking voltage on the 3 bar can be done with a tester by testing the middle green wire on the map sensor or through the rapid bike pro. In the bottum left corner select the "sensor" tab and it will show with the key on, sled not running voltage, which is just barometric pressure and show an idle voltage with vaccumn also. Now just to see how the sensor works and shows the change is air pressure, check it on sunny day and on a snowy/cloudy and at different altitudes you will be surprised at the difference in volts. Check at idle and also with the key on motor not running.
* Changing a single map to a switch map is done in the management while connected to the sled, map configuration and select "switch maps". Now once you are in the new map you can copy and paste from map one to map 2 through copy and paste.
I hope this helps and anyone who can explain this better, add to this please do so... i am going to keep adding to this as i go and I hope this gets a sticky. thanks Jim
* When tuning you have to have knowledge of your compression ratio, cam timing and octain requirements for your altitute. If you have too much octain you will see some sluggish performance. You can seealso see spitting and popping from too much octain. Some mcx kits are running as much as 8-12 degrees of extra timing on the bottum end and you may want alot too if your running higher octain. You will see on the apex that it makes more power with a couple degrees of timing pulled on the top end in your full boost areas.
* Differences in engine, turbo, fuel, and rb3 setting can have an affect an affect on a map. One map may work great in one sled but not the other, it seems these maps are fine tuned to each sled.
* Changing the timing in any area has an affect on the fuel numbers. So if you are adding timing you will want to add fuel in that area and same if you are pulling timing from a map you will need to lean the fuel numbers in that same area to help with proper a/f.
* Mounting the map sensor high, above the throttle bodies pointed down so it doesnt get any oil or moisture build up and so its as close to the boost/vaccum source as possible.
* While tuning if its spitting and poping you have to look at the a/f guage right BEFORE it pops and that's the reading you want to reference and adjust too. Once it has popped and you look down at the a/f its not an accurate reading, it is going to read lean even if the sled is rich. The after the spit and the pop the unburned oxygen is what is causing the a/f to read lean.
* Setting the Min voltages is an important thing to understand. Setting the min volts has an affect on how fast the rb3 moves into the percent collums of the map. So using Turbo keiths load coversion chart
http://www.toyzfortrucks.com/rapidbike_ ... ersion.xls
helps you understand the higher the min volt the faster the rb3 will jump collum So in setting a min volts at 1.66 means the rb3 isnt going to leave the 0% collum and until boost is sensed. Setting a min at 1.1 means you are jumping off idle to the 20% or even 40% column imediatelydepending on what your idle voltage. With a lower volt number means you are making those collums vaccum columns. Now there is different loads on that vaccum column so its nice to tune the 20-10 with the 0% column and 10-0 with the 5% column. This makes for a cleaner bottum end and ridablility in the trees. I have mine set at 1.60 and it seems to work alot better that set at 1.66 The rb3 is going to sense boost and vaccum alot faster than any guage. So your sled can be seeing boost and the guage is still reading 4in. So if your boost gauge reads 8in vaccum and you think you are in the 0% collumn still and tuning there, you are really in the 20% or 40% columns. If you look at the chart it shows volts at the 0 lbs of boost and in what percent column you are in. So is neccessary to understand the lower you set your min volts the farther into the map it jumps as soon as you accelerate off idle. IF you have a idle voltage of 1.26 at 2500 ft at 32 degrees, you wouldnt have to set you min volts at 1.20 You will notice that the rb3 still adjusts fuel and timing even if your low volts isnt set below your idle voltage. The low volt just dictates when the rb3 picks up on your vaccum/boost level. Now setting the volts above 1.67 means you can see boost before the rb3 is jumps in letting the stock injection do its thing.
* Max volts, is also just as important. It you are satisfied with the boost level you are going to run then set you max volts just above that mark and you will have use of the entire map or full resolution and will have an easier time tuning your sled. You can look at the load chart and change the volts and see the changes. A 2 bar sensor is good for a max of 15 lbs and a 3 bar sensor has a max boost level of 29 lbs at 5 volts. A max set at 3.8 is going to let you run 17-18 lbs and have full use of the map. Now if you are runnning 12 lbs and have a max set at 4.25 you are never going to use the last 2-3 colums and makes tuning a bit harder. Harder because you are adjusting a culumn that populates on both sides of the number. So if you are running 12 lbs and you are 71 % on your chart and you are lean, you will want to increase the 80% column which will increase the other side of the 80% column as well. So with a lower voltage that is set for your boost level, you have colums that seem closer together, with make more tuning available. So if you know you are HAPPY with your booost level then play with setting the volts down and see how it works.
* Something that would be nice is a accurate waterproof volt guage that would show what volts you have off the 3 bar map sensor. Since you loose 0.42 % per thousand feet your boost guage is not accurate. It would be nice just to look down and see a voltage and know you're at that boost level acording to the load chart and you can tune that voltage/ column in your map. So a boost vac gauge is nice, but you have keep in mind that as you climb altitude you are needing to subtract 0.42% from your guage per thousand feet. So if you are tuning at 8000 ft and you think your running 12 lbs on your guage you are not at 12 lbs, you are closer to 8-9 lbs and thats why you have to turn up the boost to recover the altitude loss. So your a/f can show its running lean at higher altitudes but what has actually happened it is running in a lower/leaner column. So you should turn your boost up, or run a switch map with more fuel in that column.
* Checking voltage on the 3 bar can be done with a tester by testing the middle green wire on the map sensor or through the rapid bike pro. In the bottum left corner select the "sensor" tab and it will show with the key on, sled not running voltage, which is just barometric pressure and show an idle voltage with vaccumn also. Now just to see how the sensor works and shows the change is air pressure, check it on sunny day and on a snowy/cloudy and at different altitudes you will be surprised at the difference in volts. Check at idle and also with the key on motor not running.
* Changing a single map to a switch map is done in the management while connected to the sled, map configuration and select "switch maps". Now once you are in the new map you can copy and paste from map one to map 2 through copy and paste.
I hope this helps and anyone who can explain this better, add to this please do so... i am going to keep adding to this as i go and I hope this gets a sticky. thanks Jim
So describe your elevation riding areas, and how it is running if you don't mind. Also, can you post your map you have now so we could give it a try and see how it works on our sleds?
Thanks, great post
Kirk
Thanks, great post
Kirk
