Sorry Clutchmaster I tried. Never thought of just taking a picture. Thanks Ulmer
Gride188
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Having the same problem with a buddys sled also with a hurricane 270 kit , isc fuse blown and relay . Have you happen to find the problem yet ?
grizztracks
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The ISC relay powers more than just the ISC motor. It actually should be called the "Main Relay" because it powers the ISC, ECU, Coils, injectors, Fan relay coil and both Shift relay coils.
I'm working on using the the Yamaha Fuel Pump Solid State Relay as a replacement for the ISC and Fuel Pump relay. I'll be making a couple prototypes for testing this week.
I'm working on using the the Yamaha Fuel Pump Solid State Relay as a replacement for the ISC and Fuel Pump relay. I'll be making a couple prototypes for testing this week.
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ClutchMaster
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2002 Viper W/162 A.C. skid, SRX pipes &CDI, 780 BB
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Yes the problem is the fuel pump is larger and draws a lot more amperage. When you start to get into boost the fuel pump pressure increases and the amperage draw increases causing the fuse too blow. Dave says just use a larger fuse, but I know better. The fuel pump relay is also way undersized for the job. You need to put in a bigger relay and wire the coil of that relay to the old fuel pump wires. Then use an inline 20 amp fuse to feed the power side of the relay. This will give the fuel pump a dedicated circuit. Make sure you solider and heat shrink the wires going to the pump as they are already sized small for 20 amps. Do not use the plugin connector going to the pump it will melt due to the extra amperage. I will get you some pics later.
ClutchMaster
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Melted fuel pump connector
ClutchMaster
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http://m.ebay.com/itm/12V-40A-Water...%3A19ddaf5515a0a6a8eb98a5c3ffff64b1%7Ciid%3A2
This is the relay I used, tucked in right next to the fuel pump
This is the relay I used, tucked in right next to the fuel pump
ClutchMaster
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Like grizztracks said it powers all the computer electronics, injectors, etc. and if you don't separate the fuel pump and give it a dedicated relay you will get all kinds of fault codes from low voltage.
Is some weird things going on with that fuelpump circuit.Like grizztracks said it powers all the computer electronics, injectors, etc. and if you don't separate the fuel pump and give it a dedicated relay you will get all kinds of fault codes from low voltage.
http://ty4stroke.com/threads/possible-kickback-solution.145387/page-9
Another "interesting observation" Long Story.
Decided to add a Seat Heater for those long cold rides. I am cheap and lazy so I used a Moose brand and went right to the battery with a fuse and switch. Worked great but I left it on one night since switch is hidden under seat by latch. Decided to add a LED light to it. Simple. Red +on led to Red+ on seat heater. Black on LED to ground. Using test light I found there to be ground at the seat latch so I put it there. Walla light on when seat is on.
Now the weird. Start the sled and light goes out but seat heater still works! Determined that the light on seat bracket is grounding through the fuel pump. When running ground is lost because fuel pump is running. Question: Is the Starter Solenoid which is also mounted to same bracket sucking ground from fuel pump at startup? Should we isolate that? Noticed Solenoids on all other Yamahas and all my toys the starter Solenoid is always Isolated from ground.
ClutchMaster
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Starter solinoid is mounted to the bracket, but not grounded to it. That bracket is isolated by the plastic gas tank, using a test light to determine a good ground not a good idea. Just use the battery terminal 6" away.
yamaha4sea_fan24
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2018 Yamaha Viper RTX - Wife's Sled
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I had a similar issue this weekend when riding in Northern WI, although the weather was 32 degrees and was very damp outside. Rode 170 miles the day prior. Pulled it in garage for the night and closed up. Went out next morning, screen lit up but did nothing when I went to start. Through it might be battery, checked battery and that was all good. Figured it was a relay as my fuel pump was not kicking on. Let it just sit for a few minutes, sled fired right up. Ok, great! Let er get warm and had to leave for something for a few hours. Came back to start it, fired but didn’t stay running. Went to try 2nd key cycle and nothing again. Popped hood off, and took all relays in the cabin to warm up over the week. Hopefully this is my only issue and it’s an easy fix. I carry spare relays with me as well when I ride. First “real” issue with this sled at 1200 miles.
grizztracks
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I had a similar issue this weekend when riding in Northern WI, although the weather was 32 degrees and was very damp outside. Rode 170 miles the day prior. Pulled it in garage for the night and closed up. Went out next morning, screen lit up but did nothing when I went to start. Through it might be battery, checked battery and that was all good. Figured it was a relay as my fuel pump was not kicking on. Let it just sit for a few minutes, sled fired right up. Ok, great! Let er get warm and had to leave for something for a few hours. Came back to start it, fired but didn’t stay running. Went to try 2nd key cycle and nothing again. Popped hood off, and took all relays in the cabin to warm up over the week. Hopefully this is my only issue and it’s an easy fix. I carry spare relays with me as well when I ride. First “real” issue with this sled at 1200 miles.
Try switching to a different relay. The mechanical relay being used is "Flux sealed" but there is an option in this series for "Sealed type washable" which I would think is more suitable for snowmobile use. The relays being used in the Viper have a manufacture's part number 303-1AH-C-R1-12vdc for the "Flux sealed" and if you replace The -C- with -S- so the part number is 303-1AH-S-R1-12vdc then you get the "Sealed type washable". There are 5 off these relays that can be replaced in the Viper.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...lGo6lFOYUsTYwbpP89ku/7wyBpVWigJQObwg6RppX8prP
yamaha4sea_fan24
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I'll have to see if my father can get me these relays with the S in the part number. Are they proven to work better? Can usually pick up a relay through him for less than .50 cents a relay.Try switching to a different relay. The mechanical relay being used is "Flux sealed" but there is an option in this series for "Sealed type washable" which I would think is more suitable for snowmobile use. The relays being used in the Viper have a manufacture's part number 303-1AH-C-R1-12vdc for the "Flux sealed" and if you replace The -C- with -S- so the part number is 303-1AH-S-R1-12vdc then you get the "Sealed type washable". There are 5 off these relays that can be replaced in the Viper.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Song-Chuan/303-1AH-S-R1-12vdc?qs=/ha2pyFadugdNzxK4V0lGo6lFOYUsTYwbpP89ku/7wyBpVWigJQObwg6RppX8prP
grizztracks
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So far I haven't had a failure or heard of anyone running them having issues but to be fair I don't believe there are a lot of people running them yet.
yamaha4sea_fan24
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What was the other part # for the other 2 big relays? I'm having my dad order a set for my sled and my buddies sidewinder who's having similar issues.So far I haven't had a failure or heard of anyone running them having issues but to be fair I don't believe there are a lot of people running them yet.
titanrcr
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Having this same issue with my Viper. Just added secondary injection to run 280/300 hp, upgrade from the 240 kit. ISC fuse pops when I get into the throttle, even happens when I rev the engine with the rear end lifted. It will idle all day otherwise. Tried a 30 amp fuse in the ISC spot and blew that too, it did take a bit longer to pop while giving it throttle on the stand. I plan to cut the ORG/WHT wire going to the fuel pump relay and give it it's own dedicated power supply. This 280/300 kit runs the stock fuel pump with a regulated return line but still must draw a lot more amperage when the additional 3 injectors kick in....Hope this works....
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