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Who's had there secondary apart?

BlueByYou2000

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im assuming to adjust it, it's like button style Yamaha secondaries. Studding tomorrow night and gonna stiffen up the secondary to 70 degrees. Anything internally I side I need to know about so nothing goes missing when I put it back together.
 

Pretty much the same. Just keep an eye on the washers when you take the big bolt out.

The belt is a lot harder to put on compared to the button secondary. I have the osp belt adjuster now and it makes it much easier.

I wrapped mine to 70 as well.;)!
 
Very easy to do Matt. Surprised to see no 8mm bolts/washers (3) on the back of the secondary. Looks like when you put the 14mm bolt back with the outer washer it opens up the secondary a bit.

--Buster696---
 
Pretty much the same. Just keep an eye on the washers when you take the big bolt out.

The belt is a lot harder to put on compared to the button secondary. I have the osp belt adjuster now and it makes it much easier.

I wrapped mine to 70 as well.;)!

New to Yamaha clutches. What holes to make 70?
 
6 and 1 = 70
3 and 3= 60

.......and so on. Add the numbers together and times by 10
 
Had mine and 3 others apart, checked for flashing (all good), machined 2 secondary's for the 8DN belt. Same as the buttons, rollers feel very loose...but all is good. Finally happy to see a factory roller setup.
 
Also checked on a balance machine....these clutches are the $hit
 
couple fyi's...its easier to wrap on the jackshaft...also...more wrap...racier feel...probably burns more fuel and maybe more belt dust if 8jp ...maybe even more heat? what say you terry?

if you dont care about traction and the racier feel you might even go the other way...but then who buys these to just cruise?

also, I do this to all my yam helixes , polish the ramps super smooth..although it means less probably with the rollers than the old buttons
 

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Dumb question but what does this do by moving to 70? What is stock?
Follow up question to this one. Any pics? Or how to.

I utubed it today. With zero luck. Just afraid to ask.....
 
So what you are doing by tightening your secondary is making the belt stay higher in the secondary which in turn makes it more responsive, or snappier. The motor will RPM quicker than it will with a looser secondary. Under acceleration, if your sled hooks up, you don't want the belt dropping down in the clutch because what it's effectively doing is shifting to a higher gear (even though it's not a gear) which can bog the motor briefly. And it's not a bog really, it's just loading the motor harder. I'll try to find instructions for you guys on the old totallayamaha.com site.
 
Here is a video that should help. The Yamaha helix is held on by 3 nuts, not screws like in the vid. But you'll see the similarities. Also, you don't need that tool they use if youve done it before. You also could make your own tool with threaded rod. It definitely makes it easier. I probably wouldn't recommend trying it without some sort of tool if you've never had a secondary apart before. Then once apart, the helix will have numbers on it, as will the clutch. The total degrees is a combination of both numbers the spring is placed. So if you have it in hole 3 on the helix and hole 3 on the clutch, that's 60 degrees. (3+3=6) then add a 0 to get 60. Add zero to whatever combination to determine degrees. So if you want to tighten it, take it to 70 degrees, and if you want to loosen, take it to 50 degrees. So after you get your desired degree, put it back together the same way it came off. Now, know that it's a torsional spring so when you take it apart, when the helix clears the towers after the nuts are off, it's going to twist to the left, or unwind. Note how far it twists because you will need to twist it back into place when your reinstalling. This is super hard to explain without showing you, so hopefully this video will help a bit.
 
Bluebyyou, I understand. At skidoo, we changed springs. You guys have varying holes that adjust spring tension, I assume.
The Sidewinder is set up from the factory at 3 + 3?
 


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