apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Cracked Y -Pipes
Blown Donuts
Jig to mount replacement flanges
New flanges press fit on
Copper Donuts
Installed y-pipes
Tunnel protector rivets pulled out and opened the holes. Had to use washers. Also ran out of rivets so have them on order.
Blown Donuts
Jig to mount replacement flanges
New flanges press fit on
Copper Donuts
Installed y-pipes
Tunnel protector rivets pulled out and opened the holes. Had to use washers. Also ran out of rivets so have them on order.
Last edited:


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Where did those press fit flanges come from?
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15122268752...em=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtrWhere did those press fit flanges come from?
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
They are heavy duty material. I hope with those and the copper donuts I won't be taking this apart again for along time. The left y-pipe was replaced in 08. The right was the original. What's funny is the donuts on the cracked pipe were still full. The pipe that wasn't cracked(left) had only half donuts left.


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They are heavy duty material. I hope with those and the copper donuts I won't be taking this apart again for along time. The left y-pipe was replaced in 08. The right was the original. What's funny is the donuts on the cracked pipe were still full. The pipe that wasn't cracked(left) had only half donuts left.
Strange... so you press those over the titanium headers too... and they hold without leaks?? You would think you would need some kind of clamps or exhaust sealant..
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I contacted the seller about that. Some do add a sealer. He said because it was a press fit its not needed. I couldn't get them on until I put the y-pipes in the freezer for about 8 hours then they were still a tap fit. After everything warmed up they won't budge.Strange... so you press those over the titanium headers too... and they hold without leaks?? You would think you would need some kind of clamps or exhaust sealant..


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I contacted the seller about that. Some do add a sealer. He said because it was a press fit its not needed. I couldn't get them on until I put the y-pipes in the freezer for about 8 hours then they were still a tap fit. After everything warmed up they won't budge.
Crazy... you will have to report back on how they hold up. Do you know if the guy is a member of the site?
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'm not sure, but I was doing a search for y-pipe replacement on here and that is how I found out about them.Crazy... you will have to report back on how they hold up. Do you know if the guy is a member of the site?


Crewchief47
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Yes, will be interesting to see how that works out.

wavemaster
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We used those on 2 attaks so far, one with over 3000 miles since. Torch the sleeve, freeze the pipe, tap them on. It is amazing how well they work.
We used to buy pipes, never again.
We used to buy pipes, never again.


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Be nice to get this guy as an advertiser. Great cheap fix for broken flanges.
baggs66
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got mine on line too, also at hpe . i have one that leaks for just a second at cold start then seals up with heat. said some people weld them but not needed.


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got mine on line too, also at hpe . i have one that leaks for just a second at cold start then seals up with heat. said some people weld them but not needed.
I would think they leak unless sealed or clamped. Really not a welding option for the titanium guys.

wavemaster
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We have not sealed them and due to the thinness of the pipes I don't think a clamp would help. It is a thermal fit and it is very tight. Two seasons on one sled, one season on the other. They have both been through the shop for this season and neither sled has any leaking going on.
I think variations in the pipes and collars as well as the installation could introduce possible leaks and in that case a high temp sealer may help.
They do NOT need "pounding on" but more of a pressing. When the temps are right there is enough expansion and contraction to allow a press fit.
We freeze the pipes and torch the flanges and they press right on. after they cool, they are never coming off. We used a block that we made to position the flanges upright so the pipes could be pressed (by hand) down onto them, this way the depth is controlled as well. The flanges can end up +/- 1/4" from stock without issue as long as they are equal to each other.
Once they are married together, from that point on they heat and cool equally, so the thermal bonding stays. For a long time this type of thermal fit has been used in industrial applications like this when you have two dis-similar metals that can't be welded or bonded in a traditional way so I would expect them to be very reliable (certainly more reliable than the stock flange).
I think variations in the pipes and collars as well as the installation could introduce possible leaks and in that case a high temp sealer may help.
They do NOT need "pounding on" but more of a pressing. When the temps are right there is enough expansion and contraction to allow a press fit.
We freeze the pipes and torch the flanges and they press right on. after they cool, they are never coming off. We used a block that we made to position the flanges upright so the pipes could be pressed (by hand) down onto them, this way the depth is controlled as well. The flanges can end up +/- 1/4" from stock without issue as long as they are equal to each other.
Once they are married together, from that point on they heat and cool equally, so the thermal bonding stays. For a long time this type of thermal fit has been used in industrial applications like this when you have two dis-similar metals that can't be welded or bonded in a traditional way so I would expect them to be very reliable (certainly more reliable than the stock flange).
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Exhaust reinstalled.
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