First oil change (what a puzzle)

All I can say is it was much easier on the RX1. Anyone disaasembling an apex for the first time here are a few pics and a few sugestions. The headlight assembly must slide forward after the two bolts are removed. To get the battery bracket out make sure you take the lead off the starter and disconnect the other plug running over the bracket. Also remove the bracket that holds the headlight assembly unless you have long T handle allens to get at the allens that hold the air box on. Well that's all the help full hints I have. The filter was on very very tight. Remember to always check and make sure the rubber gasket from the filter comes off with the filter and doesn't stay on the block. A friend of mine had the O ring stick to the block and he double o ringed it. Then the filter came off and motor pumped all the oil out. Blown engine!! I found a few problems you will see in the pics. Anti freeze appears to be 100% not 60/40 and the overflow resevor was empty. The throttle free play was set at 5mm not 2-3mm. Total job took 4 hours!!!!
In the top pic is this where you synch the FI??

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=17722

Try that link for basic disassembly. I will be working on a instruction for the oil change hopefully tomorrow as well.

There it is!! I had read your post before. But then when I searched, I searched oil change instead of disassembly and couldn't find it. Your pics show the little notches the headlight assembly slids over clearly. How about directions with a few pics on how to synch the FI. Once I get 500 miles I will change oil again and synch the FI. Do you use the block that has 1,2,3,4 on it to adjust?

TB sync & a tip

Post your findings on the throttle body sync-current settings when you start, at the 500 mile mark they shouldn't need to be touched unless not set correctly at the factory.

A tip also: I took a black permanent marker and highlighted the Low Coolant line, as well as a line on the rear of the tank so checking the level would be eaiser especially when just removing the access panel below the gauge pod.

I will take a pic of the manometer before and after if adjustment is neccesary. That's a good idea marking the cold line. For those who haven't ventured under all the panels yet, for some reason the cold mark is facing the clutch side of the sled and is pretty hidden under wires etc....

I stripped my GT down to the battery last night (to install my heated shield wiring).

I didn't have any clamps holding my airbox onto my throttle bodies. The rubber just went over the bodies. Just took a little tug to pull them off. I'm worried now that maybe they were missed during assembly?

That would be a dealer prep issue Starry Knight, as they have to install the battery and the air box.

Thanks for the info Srxspec.

I'm going to double check tonight that I didn't just yank off the airbox with the clamps on. If they were on, they weren't very tight. I guess I should also check that they did'nt fall down into the engine compartment when I pulled off the airbox. yikes.

I get flustrated every time I look under the hood. Tried to take the air box out once and gave up. Spent more time looking for the clip nuts that dropped out ended up duct taping them on. Just seems like a not of hassle to get to the battery or plugs. Dealer said it would be around $75 for the first oil change. Not sure if I will attempt it or take it to dealer. Appricate the step by step disassembly instructions this may help.

I had one of the clips that hold the air breather cover on fall out too. Once I found it I used a small screw driver and bent the little tab out alittle further then they stay in place. the oil and filter change isn't that bad once you do it once. I can't say i'm looking forward to the 500 mile change, but it will be easier. I will put a K&N filter on and not change it again for a few years since I only ride about 1500 miles a year. This year may be different though, we are getting blasted with wet heavy snow right now!!!!!

rhoag said:

The throttle free play was set at 5mm not 2-3mm.

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I have the same issue. If you re-adjust the freeplay down to 2MM do you have to adjust anything else or is that it? It wont throw off the idle or any other fuel adjustments will it?

No if you set the free play to 3MM it just takes the slack out of the throttle cable. It will not mess with anything else unless you adjust all the slack out and start applying throttle. It felt best at 3mm to me. I was more disappointed in the fact that it has pure antifreeze and nothing in the over flow that is supposed to be filled to the cold line. The dealer had to have it apart to put the battery in it!! I'm not bashing my dealer I like everyone there as a person. I don't know what mechanic put my sled together, but he needs alittle more attention to detail in his work! I can't wait to ride this thing on a nice trail.

rhoag said:

No if you set the free play to 3MM it just takes the slack out of the throttle cable. It will not mess with anything else unless you adjust all the slack out and start applying throttle. It felt best at 3mm to me. I was more disappointed in the fact that it has pure antifreeze and nothing in the over flow that is supposed to be filled to the cold line. The dealer had to have it apart to put the battery in it!! I'm not bashing my dealer I like everyone there as a person. I don't know what mechanic put my sled together, but he needs alittle more attention to detail in his work! I can't wait to ride this thing on a nice trail.

Click to expand...

My over flow is also empty

rhoag in the picture of the battery bracket how did you get the oil filter out without taking the bracket off. I see you have the battery and the battery box out, but not the bracket that holds the battery box and battery? thanks boone



















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boone- you have to take the battery bracket off