Engine breaking

I put on 1700 miles on my RTX last season and had to relearn how to approach corners by using my engine rpm's as a brake instead of my break lever. I would like to reduce the engine breaking harshness. In fact if I am standing and let of the smile handle I almost go over the bars. Is there any way to reduce this without negatively effecting the performance of the sled.

Rikar

Don't let off the throttle unless you want to slow down.

It's all part of the learning curve. Hard into the corner, hard on the brake, hard back on the throttle.

Not exactly the technical answers I was looking for. I have been a member of this site for the past year and a sledder for thirty-five years. I have have seen some useful information on this site but quite honestly if this is the best the members can offer another sledder, it is just a modified chat room.

Rikar

rikar
i agree they are not the best replys, most of the good tuners are
busy grass dragging at this time i think there was a post last year
about a clucth kit that would help, you could contact srxspec he
could help. also mike knapp would come on here to help and certain
people would not like what he said and disagree, no more help from
him so you may have to just read and let them go.

I agree with yamadog, dont get bent out of shape over a couple of jokes. You've been a member of this site for a year and know you will have to put up with a little joking around, but this is a great!
Good luck

engine braking

I found going to aftermarket clutching it's alot smoother.You can actually stand up when letting off the throttle.

Rikar said:

Not exactly the technical answers I was looking for. I have been a member of this site for the past year and a sledder for thirty-five years. I have have seen some useful information on this site but quite honestly if this is the best the members can offer another sledder, it is just a modified chat room.

Rikar

Click to expand...

This was covered in Snow Tech, contact Lennon's Power Equipment at 518-773-7175.

Rikar said:

I put on 1700 miles on my RTX last season and had to relearn how to approach corners by using my engine rpm's as a brake instead of my break lever. I would like to reduce the engine breaking harshness. In fact if I am standing and let of the smile handle I almost go over the bars. Is there any way to reduce this without negatively effecting the performance of the sled.

Rikar

Click to expand...

>>>
I asked the same question in another forum and got the same BS answers for the most part, the only real answer I got was to increase engagement rpm's to 4500. Know one seems to have a solid answer on what to do, a lot of "get used to it", blah, blah, blah. I too would like to know what has to be done to stop this problem. When in the mountains it's completely stupid to have that kind of engine braking, can cause a lot of dangerous situations! Please post any info if you find a solution, there are other members, who like me don't want to get used to it, we want it fixed! Good Luck!

I am sorry, when you referred to the "smile handle" I thought that you would have a sense of humor. When you stated that you had to relearn how to approach corners using RPM instead of the breaks, I assumed that you were not to the point that many of us are. Lennon's answer to engine breaking will give you the freewheeling you are looking for without all of the sacrifices. Just remember that the sled is heavy and without the assist of engine breaking, your service brake will ware out quickly if you are aggressive.

am i the only one that likes the engine braking? i want to clutch mine, but i dont want to lose any of the engine braking!

engine brake

The engagement dosen't have anything to do with then engine braking it's the backshift of the clutches combined with the engine braking it's mostly the secondary spring.

I am looking forward to this characteristic of my new Attak.

Re: engine brake

pro116 said:

The engagement dosen't have anything to do with then engine braking it's the backshift of the clutches combined with the engine braking it's mostly the secondary spring.

Click to expand...

>>>>
OK, ythis sounds reasonable , Now, can you describe how we go about diluteing the problem?

alaskanbowtie said:

When in the mountains it's completely stupid to have that kind of engine braking, can cause a lot of dangerous situations!

Click to expand...

I've found there's a lotta flatlanders here who don't recognize the danger of descending a hill at 100 mph on gravity alone and discover you have too much braking...yowzie! Just tapping the brake has been known to result in a huge yard-sale of snowmobile parts all over the side of the mountain! On trails it may be OK, but in the hills it can quite literally kill a guy...

I have no answer myself, but I certainly understand where you're coming from and why you'd want to fix it. I'm curious myself. Arctic Cat is advertising that they've designed a method of reducing this effect into their new 4 strokes somehow...I don't know details so I'm not sure if it's in the motor or the clutching on their end. So at least one of the mfrs out there recognizes it could be a legitimate problem....I given them credit for that, even if their sleds are green and ugly!

I have some memory of this being discussed last year and it was definitely a re-clutching that fixed it, hopefully eventually someone in the know will respond. As was already said, most of the real tuners are not frequenting these sites mid-summer...