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2011 Apex XTX gas mileage

I'm not terribly worried about the track rub because it'll wear enough to stop without being an issue. Was curious if it was just me or everyone having an issue.

My big concern is the gas mileage and now whatever this fuel pump not sucking all the time could be.

With how close the 1.5" are is it possible that the track is rubbing my top tunnel protectors and eating in to my mileage that much? I'm got around 8 mpg on this last trip.
 

yes check your exup and if it's in spec then I'd drop the suspension , remove the proctectors and look at them to see if it is actually rubbing, although you should be able to hear it or feel it if you turn the track by hand ( remove the drive belt of course). lots of room at the front exchanger? 1.5" track should not give you any problems with rubbing, you have something else going on. you did the track exchange yourself? how tight is your chain and/ or your track and how is your offset/center to center on your clutches?
 
If you have never had a broken EXUP cable then there's a good chance you have one now. Easy way to check, remove hood and left side panel. Locate EXUP servo motor and give each cable a little pull. If its broken the cable outer cover will pull right out. If not but you have alot of free play on the outer cable it's certainly out of adjustment. Either way it should be checked. Broken cable has a great affect on HP and fuel mileage.

Different primary spring could also kill your fuel mileage if it causes your cruising rpm to be significantly higher than the stock spring. You would need to make note of one vs the other at varying speeds. I know the new spring you installed has a lower engagement but I have heard the it also has a higher than stock total force so it could be your problem. A few years ago I tried a clutch setup that had a lower engagement, same top RPM but raised my cruising RPM and I went from averaging 14-17 mpg to a solid 10 mpg. Back to stock clutching now.
 

Yeah I thought about this last night but haven't checked it yet. I just couldn't imagine it would eat that much in to the mpg.

If you have never had a broken EXUP cable then there's a good chance you have one now. Easy way to check, remove hood and left side panel. Locate EXUP servo motor and give each cable a little pull. If its broken the cable outer cover will pull right out. If not but you have alot of free play on the outer cable it's certainly out of adjustment. Either way it should be checked. Broken cable has a great affect on HP and fuel mileage.

Different primary spring could also kill your fuel mileage if it causes your cruising rpm to be significantly higher than the stock spring. You would need to make note of one vs the other at varying speeds. I know the new spring you installed has a lower engagement but I have heard the it also has a higher than stock total force so it could be your problem. A few years ago I tried a clutch setup that had a lower engagement, same top RPM but raised my cruising RPM and I went from averaging 14-17 mpg to a solid 10 mpg. Back to stock clutching now.

Forgot to mention in my prior post I changed back to the stock spring after my 80 mile ride. Stock spring was my 60 mile ride on Saturday.

Would a bad exup cable make the gas boil like it is? The first time it acted up over the weekend I parked on a fairly steep hill nose down and just figured I had sucked in air. Second time was on a flat spot after taking it out boondocking.
 
Karl, if your exup cables are broken or out of adjustment, it most certainly will have an effect on performance! If the exhaust valve isn't opening all the way, it's restricting the flow.
 
Yeah I thought about this last night but haven't checked it yet. I just couldn't imagine it would eat that much in to the mpg.



Forgot to mention in my prior post I changed back to the stock spring after my 80 mile ride. Stock spring was my 60 mile ride on Saturday.

Would a bad exup cable make the gas boil like it is? The first time it acted up over the weekend I parked on a fairly steep hill nose down and just figured I had sucked in air. Second time was on a flat spot after taking it out boondocking.

I can't say that it will make your fuel boil but I can tell you that when my EXUP cable broke it caused the exhaust system get so hot that on a full throttle run I could smell plastic burning and had a faint blue smoke coming from the plastic at the area where the pipes exit the rear of the sled. Also the nuts that hold the seat down inside the storage compartment got so hot that you couldn't touch them. Big loss of power and fuel mileage also.
 
I haven't looked at them on this sled yet. Was the one thing I skipped when I had it torn apart because it was getting late and I wanted to take it out the next day. Go figure if its the exup. Just curious if it causes such a restriction, eats so much hp, and cuts down the gas, why wouldn't Yamaha set it up so that when it fails it goes wide open instead of closed. When your oil pump takes a sh*t it defaults to wide open as fail safe, why not make the exup operate like that. Again I haven't looked at it to see if it's even physically possible but seems like something they could have engineered.
 
Ok checked the exup and it was off by the slightest hair. If it was a clock with midnight being being perfect it was at 11:58. Just a hair off to the left. Adjusted it to where it lines up perfect but I can't imagine that was the cause?

I looked at the tunnel protectors and there's a couple tiny black marks on them. I looked at the track and there is a little wear on the lugs where the tunnel protectors are. Has anyone ever removed them from the top of the tunnel? I'm wondering if I can't grind the top of the bolts holding them off and drop them out the back? Trying to avoid dropping the skid again.
 
Ok checked the exup and it was off by the slightest hair. If it was a clock with midnight being being perfect it was at 11:58. Just a hair off to the left. Adjusted it to where it lines up perfect but I can't imagine that was the cause?
Did you did verify the valve is actually cycling through the full range of movement and not just aligning the marks on the valve?

Also, open your airbox and make sure a mouse hasn't established a mini Holiday Inn Express.
 
I ran it through the diagnostic and it moved one way and the other. Is there a certain way to check that it's fully opening and closing?

Air box is good.
 
when I had mine in diag mode (and I also tested a few on the floor), O was closed and 160-170 was the sweet spot. This is not entirely accurate but I found this would at least give you an idea of what was going on down there besides tearing it apart mid season.
 
Ive often wondered about removing it the same way I did on my roadliner. I put new exhaust on and removed the cables, set it in the open position and its been like that for years now. No muss, no fuss, just wide open. Still achieving 45mpg. Powerful as hell.
 


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