Adjusting toe, how do you reach inner tie-rod jam nuts?

[Irv]

Currently have my sled somewhat torn apart trying to adjust my toe out but I cannot for the life of me get the "inner" jam nut loose on the right side(seated)

I got the left side as there is no steering linkage in the way but even after loosening with a wrench the jam nut is still a bugger to turn by hand.

The right side I cannot get loose as I can't get my 14mm wrench on it to do so.

I assume a off-set 14mm wrench is the only thing that will get in there to loosen it or is there something else that will work better/easier?
(I have sprayed penetrating oil already with no luck)

Are these nuts especially tight on purpose for obvious reasons or is it more than likely because they have never been loosened/tightened before?

Not as easy of a job as I first thought

 

[ROCKRTX]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

 

[Irv]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The rubber boot is riveted in, are you suggesting drilling them out to get to the jam nut?
Hoping there is another way before I have to resort to that?

Thanks.

 

[Jeffz]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The outside one on my Phazer is the left-hand thread.

 

[kinger]

I never turn those I keep removing the bolt from the spindle and rotating the eyelet in or out, not as fast but if your paitent it will accomplish the same thing. Your limited to 1/2 turn increment of rotations of the eyelet and its good for about a 1/16" of toe each half turn.

 

[Irv]

I never turn those I keep removing the bolt from the spindle and rotating the eyelet in or out, not as fast but if your paitent it will accomplish the same thing. Your limited to 1/2 turn increment of rotations of the eyelet and its good for about a 1/16" of toe each half turn.

I was hoping to do that as well Kinger but I am now guessing someone has already adjusted it that way as there isn't a lot of thread left on the outside right one?

I did try however and in order to get the toe out I am after,(1/8 to 1/4) the tie rod will be completely threaded all the way into the aluminum shaft.
That is why I am trying to loosen and move back the inner jam nut, so I have more threads on the outer tie rod end and then have more adjusting range.

 

[Grimm]

Sometimes you can access the inner tie rod bolt by fully turning the handlebars one way or the other.

I took one of my long handled 14mm wrenches, heated it up and bent one end 90 degrees. Now, I can get at the inner bolt.

 

[Irv]

Sometimes you can access the inner tie rod bolt by fully turning the handlebars one way or the other.

I took one of my long handled 14mm wrenches, heated it up and bent one end 90 degrees. Now, I can get at the inner bolt.

Bold. makes no difference, I have tried every possible position

I am hopefully going to purchase a 14mm wrench with a drastic offset tomorrow, and if I can't find one I will try what you have done and hopefully it will work?

Thanks for the tips

 

[ROCKRTX]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The rubber boot is riveted in, are you suggesting drilling them out to get to the jam nut?
Hoping there is another way before I have to resort to that?

Thanks.

The plate inside the frame is riveted to the frame.....the rubber is sandwich between the 2 piece and no rivet pass trough the rubber, take some silicone pray slide to the rubber boot out ( push rubber to the center it will slip out ).

Take silicone spray to slip back in when work is done.

 

[yamahas]

The rummer boot on my phazer is help by clips that are similar to what hold the inside plastic part of car doors. I just wedged a flat screw driver in there and out it came. Turned the handle bars all the way and had easy access to the nuts.

 

[Irv]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The rubber boot is riveted in, are you suggesting drilling them out to get to the jam nut?
Hoping there is another way before I have to resort to that?

Thanks.

The plate inside the frame is riveted to the frame.....the rubber is sandwich between the 2 piece and no rivet pass trough the rubber, take some silicone pray slide to the rubber boot out ( push rubber to the center it will slip out ).

Take silicone spray to slip back in when work is done.

Didn't know that, figured it was riveted through the rubber.
Does it weaken it or make it prone to come out easy after that is done?

Might just give that a try, thanks

 

[spike337]

I just broke it loose by the ty rod itself. How is going to come un-done with the one inside lamb nut loose?

 

[ROCKRTX]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The rubber boot is riveted in, are you suggesting drilling them out to get to the jam nut?
Hoping there is another way before I have to resort to that?

Thanks.

The plate inside the frame is riveted to the frame.....the rubber is sandwich between the 2 piece and no rivet pass trough the rubber, take some silicone pray slide to the rubber boot out ( push rubber to the center it will slip out ).

Take silicone spray to slip back in when work is done.

Didn't know that, figured it was riveted through the rubber.
Does it weaken it or make it prone to come out easy after that is done?

Might just give that a try, thanks

No problem of boot pulling out by itself, you just have to take your time when putting back in so the rubber is fully seated between the plate.

 

[Irv]

Take out the rubber boot and turn the steering you will access better the nuts.

Also the inside nut is left tread.....tight to loose.

The rubber boot is riveted in, are you suggesting drilling them out to get to the jam nut?
Hoping there is another way before I have to resort to that?

Thanks.

The plate inside the frame is riveted to the frame.....the rubber is sandwich between the 2 piece and no rivet pass trough the rubber, take some silicone pray slide to the rubber boot out ( push rubber to the center it will slip out ).

Take silicone spray to slip back in when work is done.

Didn't know that, figured it was riveted through the rubber.
Does it weaken it or make it prone to come out easy after that is done?

Might just give that a try, thanks

No problem of boot pulling out by itself, you just have to take your time when putting back in so the rubber is fully seated between the plate.

Thanks

 

[Irv]

ROCKRTX, just curious before I go prodding/poking, if your sled or the one you did this removal on looked like this?

Just looking, it looks like a rivet does go through the rubber, curious if it is a 2 piece set or the one your talking about is different than this?