Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement (3 cylinder engine 05-07)

[grizztracks]

Use tie straps to hold the chain on the gears then when the old tensioner is removed it won't jump time. If you get slack in the chain between the gears its OK, install the new tensioner then before you pull the tab to release the tensioner use a 10mm wrench on the exhaust gear bolt (rear cam gear) and rotate the cam CCW to take up the slack before releasing the tensioner. I always align the cam gear marks and then check the stator cover mark to make sure it's close before removing the tensioner. The stator mark tends to vary slightly from sled to sled so I don't get overly concerned with it's location. After everything has been reinstalled and the engine has been rotated several times the important thing is that the marks are positioned as they were prior to the work.

 

[canadianhunter]

first off ..super article, . Im presently in the mix of replacing my tensioner. A couple things thought that id like to have clarified.... When I looked at my cam gears ,upon removeal, I noticed that the exhaust arrow on the one gear is not exactly aligned with the intake line on the other gear! The double lines or timing marks ,if you will, are showing in the magneto inspection hole ,as stated to do. Now when I removed the tensioner the exhaust gear rotated back to what appears to be perfect alignment with the intake gear. which on further inspection ..is one tooth off! another words theres enough slack in the chain as that I can move it one link and it would then be spot on...does this make sense? Ive looked at all the pics that have been posted and it does look indeed like , that the lines on the sprockets are off a little ,(just like mine). Could my timing have been one chain link off? The sled ran great before I tore it down, although at idle it burbled a little,( is it supposed to do that)? and stumbled when cold a little u know after the light goes out and you hit the throttle , but after you get going a ways it clears up and runs like atop. whats your consensus on this also and don't mean to nitpick, but in the post there was never a reference to the spacer in the middle of the mounts.. that I had fall down and lodge under the motor hell of a time to get that out. anyways I kinda need some feed back on this procedure , if you will .
thanks Brad

Yammy - Dealer/Yamaha did my two 06 Rages cam tensioners before 09 season on warranty or good will. We rode them each approx. 2500 miles that year. Except for a poor idle, especially till hot. Power, top end and fuel mileage all seemed the same as before. Upon reading info. from grizztracks I checked timing and both sleds were out of time. Returned to dealer and they corrected timing. Idle was much better, the way it had been and everything else stayed the same.
We are very lucky to have a knowledgeable guy like grizztracks helping us.

 

[YAMMY]

Use tie straps to hold the chain on the gears then when the old tensioner is removed it won't jump time. If you get slack in the chain between the gears its OK, install the new tensioner then before you pull the tab to release the tensioner use a 10mm wrench on the exhaust gear bolt (rear cam gear) and rotate the cam CCW to take up the slack before releasing the tensioner. I always align the cam gear marks and then check the stator cover mark to make sure it's close before removing the tensioner. The stator mark tends to vary slightly from sled to sled so I don't get overly concerned with it's location. After everything has been reinstalled and the engine has been rotated several times the important thing is that the marks are positioned as they were prior to the work.

Yep ..I tied the chain to the gears when the ll mark was in the window. took the tensioner out....and the slack went between the gears....at that point the exhaust mark and the intake mark lined up almost perfect. So what your saying is that its alright for it to be a little off to start with! Because the sled ran well b4 I did this except for at idle .(.it burbled a lil), I guess all the 4 strokes ran like that.? So that was all I was concerned about, glad to know ...I'll put it back the same way it was. thanks grizz for the info!!

 

[grizztracks]

If you get it together and it doesn't want to idle but runs good when brought off idle then it jumped time. Normally it jumps on the intake gear due to the design of the 4 stroke overhead cams.

 

[YAMMY]

All back together ..Started right up and idled.. ok,. Theres a slight burble in it while idleing ,, Is that normal? but other than that its fine, runs exactly like it did before! Don't really know how these 4 strokes run down low I just bought this sled last year from a arctic cat dealer so........ I hope it was on time.

 

[nickleuci]

Just replaced the tensioner on my sons nytro Er. Fran great write up, made this job easier. But f me what a pain, lots of stuff to take off with crappy access. That bottom bolt really sucked.

 

[Bradford]

I got to do mine twice! After replacing it, I read this thread and that's when I realized that I may have jumped the timing. Sure enough, I did

 

[pdiddy]

Just a reminder - if you're are listing your 05-07 Vector/Rage on craigslist you should mention that this update has been done if it has. I automatically assume it is not done if it is not mentioned in an add because it's that critical (to me) regarding the value of the sled I assume the current owner would be an idiot not to elevate the value of their sled by confirming it. Of course, backing it all up with documentation would be required upon a sale. I've only seen about two listings in 10 years of watching that mentioned it. Those sleds sold fast.

 

[jbwi102]

I saw a post recently about someone who took a tensioner with the orange dot apart to examine why they fail, but cant seem to find it again. Does anyone know specifically why they fail?

 

[grizztracks]

I've had several of them apart and haven't been able to determine why they fail. If I had to guess I'd bet it's either the spring tension not applying enough pressure to ratchet it out or the overall throw is to short so it can't apply enough pressure once the chain and gears wear. It's totally mechanical so we know it's not oil pressure related.

If you want to donate a new updated tensioner for me to dissect I'll do a comparison.

 

[jbwi102]

Its weird that the sound comes and goes, could the tensioner be binding?

 

[grizztracks]

The tensioner ratchets out to take up chain slack. When the plunger extends it's suppose to lock so it can't return. It's possible the ratchet mechanism isn't holding and allowing the plunger to skip back a tooth.

 

[dugzup]

I just finished changing another bad cam chain tensioner in a 06 Vector. I've done several of these successfully without removing the valve cover to expose the timing marks. Unfortunately when I got this one back together it didn't idle properly. I pulled the valve cover and discovered that the exhaust cam had jumped time. After resetting the cams it ran much better. If I do another one of these I'll definitely pull the valve cover and tie strap the chain to the gears before removing the tensioner. Removing the cover only takes a few extra minutes and it's much easier than removing the tensioner twice.

Out of the tensioner I've replaced only a couple have actually been bad. I'm not sure how many of the 05 to 07 tensioners will eventually fail but at least be aware that some of them are failing. If anyone plans on changing theirs and have questions feel free to contact me. I'm always willing to help.

 

[everlast]

I just did this + donuts on my 06 Venture. I couldn't have done it without the walkthrough, great job. A couple points:

1 ) For the tensioner bolts, it helped that I used an 8mm socket with an 8mmx20mm bolt IN the socket, from the back. IE slide a bolt into the hole the ratchet normally goes. I put two nuts on the bolt, one on each side of the socket, and tightened them down hard. It gives you a socket that you can get a wrench on. My 8mm ratcheting wrench + this was a life saver for the tensioner bolts.
2) The engine would not move once I had the engine mounts loose / removed. It was seized between the spacers on the rear side. We eventually pulled it free at some risk, when I realized after what SHOULD be done: once you remove the main rear engine mount shaft, use your "special tool" and turn the threaded spacer CCW to bring it towards the outside of the machine, which will free up space for the engine to move easily. Then prop up the engine and turn the spacer fully CW until its removed.
3) When removing the exhaust v-band clamps, if you're worried about them stripping, do the fully monty on them to give you the best chance of removal:
- soak them in oil 24 hours before
- clean out the allen head area, making sure the socket fully engages the tool. I use a dental pick to clean them out of debris and rust.
- heat the clamp (but not the bolt) with MAPP (or propane) just before removal
- get a pair of vice grips on the bolt head, tight!
- use hammer to tap in the allen head socket (don't ever use an L allen key, they're #*$&@ lol). If the bolt is in really bad shape, hammer in a torx socket instead, the edges will bite into the bolt. Your torx socket won't like you though.
- you and a buddy turn the socket AND the vice grips at the same time. If anything will remove them, this will.

Otherwise, drill the heads!

 

[Shootis]

I made a tool for removing the engine spacer that I'd be happy to send to someone if they just pay the shipping.

PM me if interested. I can send pix if needed.