Chain Case inspection and tension

[Grunt]

Hi All, Continuing with a good going over of my new to me 16 MTX, Dropped all the oil and pulled chain case cover.
All looked pretty good, normal grey paste on magnets, no visible wear. Bearings felt tight.
But my tensioner bolt was about 1/4" away from the arm it would contact. The spring tension was taking up the slack in the chain as it should.
I have read that one can check tension bolt by turning in by hand till it makes contact, then backing out 1 1/4 turns..
So it would seem that 1/4" gap is WAY TOO much..... Would I be correct???

Also Im not replacing the o-ring gasket. I de greased the o-ring and mating surface with slap shot on a clean rag and Im using a light bead of Lok-Tite 518 flange sealant. Used this on many applications and its great.

Other work I did was addressing the steering slop. Took it all apart. The slop in the top bushing at the tri pod support, I used 0.005" shim stock to take up slop. The next support bushing down, I did Biker Mikes fix of filing some material from one half and that seemed to work just fine. I did put a bit of grease when assembling.

Where the steering post bolts through the bottom support, The nut was loose and there was a bit of slop there. On the top side of that connection there is just the ball joint nut . I installed a SS flat washer , then put the ball joint stud through the hole and then cranked the ny lock nut tight. I think the flat washer will assist with keeping that secure.

Will finish chain case and motor oil tomorrow then move onto clutches , drive shafts and skid. Have a soft start spring, and secondary adjuster coming from BOP. Hopefully soon... Snow is starting to pile up and I would hate to have to take my summit out for first ride of the season LOL

BTW. Thanks for all the great info on this site. Its a BIG help CHEERS

 

[74Nitro]

Don't know your mileage, but I would check the bushing inside the top sprocket as they become sloppy with miles.
Also, check the tensioner roller bolts for tightness.
I often re-use the cover 0-ring and never add any any type of sealant to it. There's no need to.

 

[hibshman25]

For chain tension you just want the bolt to touch the tensioner. You do not want a gap and you do not want to apply more force than what the spring applies. With cover off its easy to set, with cover on you are going by feel which can be tough for some. I created my tensioner bolt with depth rod to take the guess work out of setting the tensioner bolt with cover on .

As mentioned above certainly inspect the bushing inside the forward drive top gear.

 

[Grunt]

Don't know your mileage, but I would check the bushing inside the top sprocket as they become sloppy with miles.
Also, check the tensioner roller bolts for tightness.
I often re-use the cover 0-ring and never add any any type of sealant to it. There's no need to.

Miles are low, 1400 miles. I did check all the gears for play and The bolts holding the tension roller were tight, so I Just left them alone. Im kinda ocd when it comes to oil changes so this will be coming apart every year.
The only thing that worries me about these sleds is the electric starter. I go way up in the bush to remote lakes and am concernred there is no back up if the starter packs it in.
Next summer she's coming completely apart as I must know what needs to be done to fix in the bush.
From what Ive read its pretty much a motor pull to do the starter... Please correct me if im wrong... Can it be taken out through the bottom from oil filter access??? Thanks

 

[Grunt]

For chain tension you just want the bolt to touch the tensioner. You do not want a gap and you do not want to apply more force than what the spring applies. With cover off its easy to set, with cover on you are going by feel which can be tough for some. I created my tensioner bolt with depth rod to take the guess work out of setting the tensioner bolt with cover on .

As mentioned above certainly inspect the bushing inside the forward drive top gear.

Thanks.. I did put my cover back on last night. I will adjust it externally this morning... Sled has 1400 miles and i dint think this has ever been apart, I would expect as a new machine, the chain tension should be on the first maintenance schedule.... Aparently the dealer did all the maint. on this thing..... Thanks for the tips..

 

[74Nitro]

Miles are low, 1400 miles. I did check all the gears for play and The bolts holding the tension roller were tight, so I Just left them alone. Im kinda ocd when it comes to oil changes so this will be coming apart every year.
The only thing that worries me about these sleds is the electric starter. I go way up in the bush to remote lakes and am concernred there is no back up if the starter packs it in.
Next summer she's coming completely apart as I must know what needs to be done to fix in the bush.
From what Ive read its pretty much a motor pull to do the starter... Please correct me if im wrong... Can it be taken out through the bottom from oil filter access??? Thanks

No need to pull the starter. I'm not sure you understand the starter/kickback problem. Read up on it in other threads.

 

[Grunt]

No need to pull the starter. I'm not sure you understand the starter/kickback problem. Read up on it in other threads.

I have read up on the kickback issue and do believe that there has been improvements made for 2016 models.

My motivation for wanting to know procedure for starter replacement is if it calves in the bush, I want to be familiar with the replacement procedure.

Like all things electric, it will eventually stop working

 

[RobX-1]

I'm not sure what's involved with replacing a Viper starter but do know the Nytro starter replacement was more involved than my Apex's and I still would not want to attempt to swap out starters while out in the bush. Unless you are planning on carrying a spare starter, it might make more sense to get yourself one of those battery jumper packs. I have the Noco GB40 that I carry with me but do know others on here have had success with other units.

 

[74Nitro]

If you're that worried about it maybe you have the wrong sled.
Do you carry a spare starter for your car or truck.....?

 

[Grunt]

If you're that worried about it maybe you have the wrong sled.
Do you carry a spare starter for your car or truck.....?

Like I said, new to Yamaha.. Just trying to get to know the sled before venturing out. Not worried, just prepared.

 

[Grunt]

I'm not sure what's involved with replacing a Viper starter but do know the Nytro starter replacement was more involved than my Apex's and I still would not want to attempt to swap out starters while out in the bush. Unless you are planning on carrying a spare starter, it might make more sense to get yourself one of those battery jumper packs. I have the Noco GB40 that I carry with me but do know others on here have had success with other units.

It looks like one can get it out from the bottom. May have to remove the oil filter, then just the wire and two bolts at the back of the starter. I assume it would just come out....
I do have a 1000A battery pack that I take out.
Myself and a couple buddies take off from our houses and ride way the hell up in the bush, crossing several lakes. Some times spend a night or two ice fishing. Can get pretty cold , -30 .. Ive had weak batteries in the past but have always had a pull cord back up Haha.
Thanks for your advice

 

[74Nitro]

Just another FYI, when the starter kickback does occur on these, it often just isn't the starter damaged. The reduction gears usually are damaged also. Then the broken teeth sometimes end up against the magnet of the flywheel causing stator damage.
Having said all that, the kickback problem is a rare occurance now with numerous software updates over the years.