fx-treme
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2005
- Messages
- 225
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 SR VIPER LTX SE
Does anyone know what kind and what size the oil drain bolt is on the motor. I need help fast thanks
MtnLiteMartin
Extreme
not sure of size but its a allen
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
i think it is 5mm or 6mm allen head
fx-treme
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2005
- Messages
- 225
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2014 SR VIPER LTX SE
thanks for the info. thats what I had and the damn thing was so tight it stripped the bolt out. We tried everything and it would not budge so I did the oil change without draining the motor. I don't think it will be a problem, the manual calls for about 2 and 3/4 quarts of oil and I used 2 and 1/4 quarts. so there was only about 1/2 a quart not drained. The filter came off easy with channel locks. oh well I'll try again at the next oil change.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Get a hex head socket as the other ones do not have enough torque without stripping the bolt.
Jim
Jim
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
fx-treme said:thanks for the info. thats what I had and the damn thing was so tight it stripped the bolt out. We tried everything and it would not budge so I did the oil change without draining the motor. I don't think it will be a problem, the manual calls for about 2 and 3/4 quarts of oil and I used 2 and 1/4 quarts. so there was only about 1/2 a quart not drained. The filter came off easy with channel locks. oh well I'll try again at the next oil change.
if it's stripped you should be able to get vise grip on it to take out, i wouldn't sleep at night until that bolt was out, ha,ha,ha just me....
GypsyRoots
Expert
Napa should "easy out" , It's a kit with a reverse cut drill bit and a reverse thread weird looking tapered Bolt remover.
You drill into the bolt head and the tighten the bolt remover in to the hole you just drilled. Being the it has reverse threads, as you tighten the bole remover it puts "backing out" force to the bolt.
We use it all the time on aircraft...
Hope this helps...
By the way, the manual does not specify what size allen it is.
I just had all my tools and used the one that fit, sorry I didn't pay enough attention....
Good Luck!!!!
You drill into the bolt head and the tighten the bolt remover in to the hole you just drilled. Being the it has reverse threads, as you tighten the bole remover it puts "backing out" force to the bolt.
We use it all the time on aircraft...
Hope this helps...
By the way, the manual does not specify what size allen it is.
I just had all my tools and used the one that fit, sorry I didn't pay enough attention....
Good Luck!!!!
Yummy
Lifetime Member
Apply some heat using hot gun or torch.
GypsyRoots
Expert
Yummy said:Apply some heat using hot gun or torch.
Heat would help the above mentioned procedure...
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Gypsy, that's called a spiral extractor as opposed to a sqare extractor. The best option in this case is to get a new bolt and washer and just use vise-grips. There is enough of the bolt protruding, with help from the washer, to grab on to. I changed the oil on mine before I rode it the first time and noticed the allen head starting to strip already, too. For my next oil change, I will probably go to the hardware store and get a regular hex cap bolt and washer to end that problem once and for all.
GypsyRoots
Expert
rfabro said:Gypsy, that's called a spiral extractor as opposed to a sqare extractor. The best option in this case is to get a new bolt and washer and just use vise-grips. There is enough of the bolt protruding, with help from the washer, to grab on to. I changed the oil on mine before I rode it the first time and noticed the allen head starting to strip already, too. For my next oil change, I will probably go to the hardware store and get a regular hex cap bolt and washer to end that problem once and for all.
Good Idea on the HEX BOLT.
Yeah I have seen those handy little things called many things. The brand I have acces to calls the "easy out"....
Vise gripis sound like the easiest idea though...
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yeah, I think "easy out" is a brand name that is a bit ubiquitous like "band-aid". Extractors is just what everybody called 'em around my parts.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Man did I find out what you guys were talking about.
4500 km oil change today, put a number 6 allen wrench on her and I can not get it off.
The dealer says to leave it in and just drain the oil reservoir instead.
The washers or 'gaskets' on the oil drain bolts - what's so special about them? Do you need a special type or is it just a plain washer?
I definitely will remove it with vice grips when I do my filter change and replace it with a hex bolt.
4500 km oil change today, put a number 6 allen wrench on her and I can not get it off.
The dealer says to leave it in and just drain the oil reservoir instead.
The washers or 'gaskets' on the oil drain bolts - what's so special about them? Do you need a special type or is it just a plain washer?
I definitely will remove it with vice grips when I do my filter change and replace it with a hex bolt.
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Those are copper alloy "crush" washers, but I've used plenty of regular washers(I used to be an oil changer at a tune-up shop) with no problems.
From what I've been reading, it sounds like the first oil change on these Phazers is a real SOB. Generally, I like to do all my own maintenance, but given the fact that the crank case oil drain bolt and filter were put on by Godzilla (not to mention the PITA just to get at the filter,) I'll let the dealer tackle the first oil change. Thereafter, I'll just siphon the oil out of the holding tank and replace it with new oil once a year. Because of the "clean" environment that a sled operates in and Yamaha's recommendations, I'll change the filter at the 12K mile mark.
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