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HID kit installed

I've never had people stop me and say my headlights are blinding them. So no I don't think the 55 wattsare an issue at all. I had a problem in one of my vehicles and one of my snowmobiles with one of the standard ballasts not firing consistently when they were cold. Once I went to the better ballasts the problem was solved, hence my recommendation for the better ballasts. What you want to do with your money is totally up to you. I also like the color of the 5000k versus the 4300 k. The 5000 is a pure white light which is awesome, at least I think it is. And before I forget I don't know why you're ordering mounting brackets but if you think you might need them by all means go ahead. I have everything stuffed into the headlight pod on my 2014 vector and when you take the headlight pod off, you simply disconnect A 2 prong trailer wire connector that is the positive and negative for the system.
 

On both of my sleds I'm running 55 watt HIDs, heated seat and vests, LEDs, heated Shield and heated handlebar grips. I've never had any issues with draining the battery but when I'm done for the day my sled battery is getting put on a trickle charger.
 
Have never had an issue with my 35w ballasts in the cold. I did not use the mounting brackets either. From studies I have seen the 4300k light works best on snow and it degrades the higher kelvin rating you go. Not saying you can't go higher just telling you what I have read. Everyone seems to say 4300k and that's why I got 4300k. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. The higher you go the more "blue" it will get.
 
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Have never had an issue with my 35w ballasts in the cold. I did not use the mounting brackets either. From studies I have seen the 4300k light works. Eat on snow and it degrades the higher kelvin rating you go. Not saying you can't go higher just telling you what I have read. Everyone seems to say 4300k and that's why I got 4300k. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. The higher you go the more "blue" it will get.
Well I have will do most anything to prevent having a lighting issue especially on my vehicles. A few bucks for a better ballast was easy to justify. I to started with the 4300K and like the 5000k better. Like I told him it's his money and he can spend it how he wants. As 10 people on this form and you'll get ten different opinions, just like on any internet Forum you go to.
 
The higher the K the more it reflexes off of the snow dust or the snow flakes when it's snowing ! The last few years no worries on the Flakes ! 5000K is ok but higher and it just all reflexes back at you . the lower the number the more yellow it is and the less it reflexes
 
Well I have will do most anything to prevent having a lighting issue especially on my vehicles. A few bucks for a better ballast was easy to justify. I to started with the 4300K and like the 5000k better. Like I told him it's his money and he can spend it how he wants. As 10 people on this form and you'll get ten different opinions, just like on any internet Forum you go to.
Not trying to argue. Opinions are just that! We all have them. That's what makes the world go around. I agree about the reflecting back. If your riding in snow dust it bounces back pretty bad.
 
I've compared both and there is a slight increase in brightness with the 55 watt but I wouldn't say the increase is all that noticeable when it comes to actual trail coverage. Brighter usually is better but if it's not transferring to better visibility then why tax the stator with the extra load? I occasionally wear a heated jacket liner on colder days along with a heated shield and usually a charger plugged in and haven't had a stator failure yet on my 2008 Nytro. I'm not sure what theses stators can actually withstand but there have been plenty of failures over the years.
 
Makes sense, even with stock lights in snow you get reflections from snow flakes. From those "details" sheets I posted, the 35w puts out 3500 lumens, the 55w 5000 lumens or 43% more lumens for 57% more power (watts) so I suspect there is quite a difference seat of the pants with the 55w on the trail. The Ultra HID bulbs of the "plus" and "ultra" kits are either 4500k or 5500k. The lowest price kit is 4300k or 5000k. Hard to see much of a different in the light picture (below) but I am leaning towards the 55w 4500k Ultra HID or DDM Plus kit. I don't see myself with a heated seat or vest but I will do a calculation on what I plan to have running and alternator output to make sure things are not out of balance. These kinds of conversations are so helpful as we can all learn from each other and the different opinions from real world experience.

Kelvin HID Temps.jpg
 
That's interesting Grizz, for 57% more power maybe it is not worth the stator strain... anyone know the technical specs on our stators, how much we actually use on a stock sled and then what we have for "spare" watts?
 
Looking back, projectors were the BEST $70 I have evrer spent for a hop-up on this sled.

They look entirely factory. Like Yamaha built it this way.
I was looking at your set up and I must say it looks wicked. So I bought the same projectors .. Just wondering what I need for hid's. There are lots out there ranging from 20 bucks up to 400 bucks. Should I get the H1? 5000k is that all I need for info?
 
Rock recommends 4300, as it has the best snow dust penetration and brightness without being too blue. Higher temp does not mean better or brighter in this situation. Stick with his recommendation.
 
HIDS.jpg


I ended up going with the HIDs from Rockmeister (www.rocztoyz.com), very happy I did. 100% plug and play, simply plug in-line with existing light bulb harness, nothing extra and designed for our sleds. I learned that many other kits have the extra 10' of wire for automotive applications, no auto restart for the bulbs and a higher initial amperage draw. Rock's have a single connection to the stock 3 prong headlight plug, auto restart and a custom low amp draw ballast all wrapped up in about 10" of harness with all the extra control boxes, etc neatly tied together. I wanted to loom the existing YamaHeater installation by the sled's original owner to protect things from rubbing but also to understand what was behind my headlight! Ended up having to extend both the power and ground as they were limiting the removal of the airbox cover. Copied Grizz on his HID ballast mounts and they are clean and out of the way but still get airflow over them. On the trail, literally night and day from stock... amazing. If you have ever been in a Mercedes or BMW when they flick on the HIDs and night is day and you can actually see the road, same on our sleds. Safety alone, makes night riding a breeze. With low beam setting (shield drops down), never got any comments. I am interested in the projectors mentioned above so will have to go back through this thread, I suspect that would make these even better as the stock Nytro lens is not designed for such good illumination but its imperfections never bothered me things were so bright!
 


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