SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Mikey said:If you read Supertuners post he states that you cannot get noticable gains by installing a key so the way I read it his mod will give you more noticable gains. Thus should be more than 3 I would assume.
I'm not so sure about noticeable gains Mikey. I am sure something will happen in the way of improved performance. I am just of the opinion that a timing key isn't enough advance for the ignition.
Freddie
Mikey
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
10-4 I sit corrected.
Grunter
Extreme
Two things:
1) 0.125" at the pick-up is worth about 0.025" at the key or 2.86 degrees!
or 0.112" at the pick-up is worth about 0.0224" at the key or 2.56 deg's!
I based this on a 5" diameter flywheel(not measured) but close and a
1" shaft dia!
2) So the key method is virtually the same = pick your poison!
3) The key method is safer in my belief(don't have to figit with the pickup and risk damaging!) As far as work is concerned your there anyway! Now if it is true that you can add lots more timing(I have no reference what initial is or what total timing is) Maybe one can indeed do both! I'm not suggesting this to anyone by any means - check first!
1) 0.125" at the pick-up is worth about 0.025" at the key or 2.86 degrees!
or 0.112" at the pick-up is worth about 0.0224" at the key or 2.56 deg's!
I based this on a 5" diameter flywheel(not measured) but close and a
1" shaft dia!
2) So the key method is virtually the same = pick your poison!
3) The key method is safer in my belief(don't have to figit with the pickup and risk damaging!) As far as work is concerned your there anyway! Now if it is true that you can add lots more timing(I have no reference what initial is or what total timing is) Maybe one can indeed do both! I'm not suggesting this to anyone by any means - check first!
Mikey
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What kinda mess would be made if the key happened to shear ?
Grunter
Extreme
The key should not shear when the nut is properly torqued. Tapered keyless connections are used in industry(high shock load applications) without any movement! The key serves for initial alignment and once the flywheel is mounted on the taper and properly torqued it's pretty much a permanent mount until you remove it with puller again! (ie: The clutch has no keyway and it doesn't move!)
It's very important to torque the Flywheel down properly the same as it is very important to machine the pick-up carefully! Properly excuted both are good choices in my opinion - one being a little simpler - that's it!
The key is a pre-set thing(no room for error). Once the preset amount is machined off - you simply install it, rotate the flywheel counter clockwise to advance the timing and set the nut! Then check to make sure nothing moved by making sure gap is on left side of key. It's precise, quick and easy(about 1 hour) I would like to know however if anyone knows - how much can the RX-1 take timing wise! ie: can we do both to get 5-6 degrees?
It's very important to torque the Flywheel down properly the same as it is very important to machine the pick-up carefully! Properly excuted both are good choices in my opinion - one being a little simpler - that's it!
The key is a pre-set thing(no room for error). Once the preset amount is machined off - you simply install it, rotate the flywheel counter clockwise to advance the timing and set the nut! Then check to make sure nothing moved by making sure gap is on left side of key. It's precise, quick and easy(about 1 hour) I would like to know however if anyone knows - how much can the RX-1 take timing wise! ie: can we do both to get 5-6 degrees?
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
If you opt to do Freddie's pickup modification, then you shouldn't have to mess with the flywheel & nut - right?
I have allen wrenches, I don't have a fly-wheel puller so if that's the case, then modifying/moving the pickup would be allot easier???
I have allen wrenches, I don't have a fly-wheel puller so if that's the case, then modifying/moving the pickup would be allot easier???
Oak Hill
VIP Member
If you go to far past the stock setup you will run into hard starting in very cold weather. Just my 2 cents!
alaskanbowtie
Expert
bare with me I'm learning
Do you guys, "supertuner" , Grunter. frosty , think the Hauck GHT-R-Dun kit is worth the cost for the entire package $1200.00 , do you feel it will truely produce the 8 to 10 h.p. as they state ? Would adding the K&N filters to the kit also be a worthy option ? I don't think they're included ? If not the Hauck kit is there another similar set up, ( KIT ) that you might suggest for the same purpose ?
Do you guys, "supertuner" , Grunter. frosty , think the Hauck GHT-R-Dun kit is worth the cost for the entire package $1200.00 , do you feel it will truely produce the 8 to 10 h.p. as they state ? Would adding the K&N filters to the kit also be a worthy option ? I don't think they're included ? If not the Hauck kit is there another similar set up, ( KIT ) that you might suggest for the same purpose ?
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: bare with me I'm learning
Sorry, but I am not familiar what is included in Hauck's kit. What does it inculde for $1200.00?
Freddie
alaskanbowtie said:Do you guys, "supertuner" , Grunter. frosty , think the Hauck GHT-R-Dun kit is worth the cost for the entire package $1200.00 , do you feel it will truely produce the 8 to 10 h.p. as they state ? Would adding the K&N filters to the kit also be a worthy option ? I don't think they're included ? If not the Hauck kit is there another similar set up, ( KIT ) that you might suggest for the same purpose ?
Sorry, but I am not familiar what is included in Hauck's kit. What does it inculde for $1200.00?
Freddie
alaskanbowtie
Expert
here is the link to explain
http://www.hauckpowersportsinc.com/clea ... 998_1.aspx
this is a clutch kit, pipe , fuel remapping piece I think ? , (fuel accelerator) and the timing key way for that mod.
http://www.hauckpowersportsinc.com/clea ... 998_1.aspx
this is a clutch kit, pipe , fuel remapping piece I think ? , (fuel accelerator) and the timing key way for that mod.
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
alaskanbowtie...it appears that this would be for a fuel inject Yamaha, Not the RX1 carbureted ones.
Freddie
Freddie
alaskanbowtie
Expert
Yeah Freddie , that's what I want to buy upgrades for. What are your suggestiions,products for the 07' line of Apex's , for performance upgrades.
PM me if you'd like THX
PM me if you'd like THX
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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I did the hauch 3 degree key and did not notice any gains,and was recommended to run premium fuel,but my thoughts from the past were always,when you advance timing,you increase torque and lose power for top end running,where most of us are looking for more top speed,i think we are looking in the wrong direction,maybe i am wrong,what are your thoughts on this freddie,sense when we installed the key we went slower,and i even put in reg. 87 grade to help,sense the 92 did nothing.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I did the "slot the pickup" mod today. I haven't got to ride yet but I have hopes for a few more RPMs.
I used my dewalt with a sanding disc to sand off the "bosses" that align the pickup. I had a large rag over the magneto assembly so no dust got into it.
Then I used a small rotary file in my Dewalt to slot the holes. It worked fine.
I was freaked out by a couple things.
1. When I pulled the flywheel cover off a large sprocket and pin fell to the floor. I figured out where it went but I wasn't expecting that. It was the camshaft sprocket.
2. Nobody said anything about draining your oil first. I ended up draining my oil tank and when the cover came off some oil came out so have a pan ready.
I didn't tear the gasket but used a new one with Yamabond just to make sure it doesn't leak.
Now this "air gap" mentioned earlier. I wish I would have know what this gap was supposed to be so I could ensure I'm ok. I know I'm close but how close is close enough on something like that?
Well, at least I'm done.
Frosty
I used my dewalt with a sanding disc to sand off the "bosses" that align the pickup. I had a large rag over the magneto assembly so no dust got into it.
Then I used a small rotary file in my Dewalt to slot the holes. It worked fine.
I was freaked out by a couple things.
1. When I pulled the flywheel cover off a large sprocket and pin fell to the floor. I figured out where it went but I wasn't expecting that. It was the camshaft sprocket.
2. Nobody said anything about draining your oil first. I ended up draining my oil tank and when the cover came off some oil came out so have a pan ready.
I didn't tear the gasket but used a new one with Yamabond just to make sure it doesn't leak.
Now this "air gap" mentioned earlier. I wish I would have know what this gap was supposed to be so I could ensure I'm ok. I know I'm close but how close is close enough on something like that?
Well, at least I'm done.
Frosty
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
timeing key
thats not a cam gear. wrong side of the moter for that. its a starter gear no indexing needed.
thats not a cam gear. wrong side of the moter for that. its a starter gear no indexing needed.
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