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Ok, need some help here...


I will check out the grounding block, but if you had a ground issue, wouldn't you have a no crank/dead sled issue rather than a no start issue? Not trying to be argumentative, just asking the question.

I also have a hard time with thinking it has anthing to do with running 91 octane and the cr10ek plugs, seeing as that is what we have always run in the past and never had any issues until this year. I know the stock plugs are cr9eb, so I guess I could possibly try the stock plugs, but I'd rather not start throwing parts at it if avoidable. What would cause the sudden issue with the octane and plug type now?

I checked compression probably 1500ish miles ago and all was well (don't remember exact number, but they were all close and within spec) but I could do that again.

I have never checked the valve clearances - how do you do that? That might be starting to get out of my league of capability/comfort.

Thanks for the suggestion thus far guys. Keep them coming!
 
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Not saying the plugs or gas are the problem, only that in the face of having starting issues they are working against you as there are many posts on this site about 87 vs 91 Octane and the CR10 vs CR9 plugs.

The grounding blocks are multiple wires that run into a connector that bridges them all together into a larger ground wire. Any one or more connections in those connectors can be bad (just reading about this now) and if they are, they can cause all kinds of strange issues. On my list to check this weekend as well (before I throw parts at it) :)
 
earthling said:
Not saying the plugs or gas are the problem, only that in the face of having starting issues they are working against you as there are many posts on this site about 87 vs 91 Octane and the CR10 vs CR9 plugs.

The grounding blocks are multiple wires that run into a connector that bridges them all together into a larger ground wire. Any one or more connections in those connectors can be bad (just reading about this now) and if they are, they can cause all kinds of strange issues. On my list to check this weekend as well (before I throw parts at it) :)
Click to expand...

Makes sense on the gas and plugs.

Okay, that is good to know. I haven't looked into it yet, but do you know where the grounding block is located? I would like to check that out for sure.
 
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there are like 5 or 6 of them through out the harness find the post on them it will help you find them all.
 
Smokum said:
I will check out the grounding block, but if you had a ground issue, wouldn't you have a no crank/dead sled issue rather than a no start issue? Not trying to be argumentative, just asking the question.

I also have a hard time with thinking it has anthing to do with running 91 octane and the cr10ek plugs, seeing as that is what we have always run in the past and never had any issues until this year. I know the stock plugs are cr9eb, so I guess I could possibly try the stock plugs, but I'd rather not start throwing parts at it if avoidable. What would cause the sudden issue with the octane and plug type now?

I checked compression probably 1500ish miles ago and all was well (don't remember exact number, but they were all close and within spec) but I could do that again.

I have never checked the valve clearances - how do you do that? That might be starting to get out of my league of capability/comfort.

Thanks for the suggestion thus far guys. Keep them coming!
Click to expand...
If it was in my garage I'd look into grounding blocks they can and will do weird things just to eliminate this. Your not being argumentative that's a great question. I sodered my wires a long time ago then put shrink wrap on them with eletelec tape over them. I'm not saying that this will fix your problem but...... something to try
 
One other possibility is valve clearances. I've seen several posts in the past of motors needing a valve adjustment to correct a running or starting issue. They are prone to corroding due to our lousy fuel. KnappAttack reported this on a few occasions. Best of luck !
 
Hi Goody 1000, your post sounded like the same thing that was happening to my 2013 last year. Happened 3 times in very cold mornings. This fall when I went to start up it just cranked over and would not fire, ended up being the fuel pump in the tank made all the proper noise put did not pump fuel. I fixed the poor starting by putting a new fuel pump in with 3 red relays and a new stronger then stock battery. I am starting at -30 4 times on trips this year. I do a lot of overnight trips approximately 3000 miles a season. Sled has been an awesome starter until the end of last year. This year back to awesome. I have over 11,000 miles. hope this helps.
 
Just following up here since I commented earlier. My sled was showing the same symptoms, a fellow forum user (Stubby Hungwell) mentioned that it was likely the stator/pulsar coil. He was nice enough to come over and give me a hand swapping out the parts and the sled fired right up, like faster than it ever has. While I was in there I swapped out the starter relay and checked all the connections/fuses (no real issues).
 
We did not have time to do any diagnosis this weekend. Trails opened Friday so we rode instead. Friday night sled started hard, but finally went and was fine all night. Put sled in non heated shed overnight, sat for probably 10 hours, hit the key and it fired right up, and had no issues all day. So weird.

Hopefully will have some time this week to wrench and diagnos. Is there a way to test stator?
 
The stator harness terminates the voltage regulator in the front of the sled. There are two plugs there, the one that plugs into the top of the voltage regulator, it is white, has three wires, and there is a two wire connector for the pulsar coil that is part of the same harness. The three wire (stator) connector should measure between .19 and .24 ohms at room temperature. My meter could not measure this as it was below the ability of the meter to measure that low. After we were done I realized what I should have done was to put a 300 ohm resistor inline with the probes to raise the overall resistance to a point where it could be more easily measured. You should measure to from the center lug of the three wires to the two outer ones and the readings should be within that range. The pulsar coil or pickup coil is on the two wire harness, you should measure between 189 and 231 ohms, again at room temperature. On my bad one it was wide open, could not get a reading.
 
Stator is basically an alternator, correct? Could a guy have sled running, check voltage output at jump wires hooked to battery with multimeter? IDK, maybe not that simple. But I would think if those wires show like 13-14 volts, stator is working?
 
Goody_1000 said:
Stator is basically an alternator, correct? Could a guy have sled running, check voltage output at jump wires hooked to battery with multimeter? IDK, maybe not that simple. But I would think if those wires show like 13-14 volts, stator is working?
Click to expand...

Yes, if the engine is running you can simply check the output voltage. This may tell you at the highest level whether it is working or not but it won't give you health (internal resistance may be climbing or lowering leading to problems but still generate current). The fact that your sled will run means that it probably isn't the stator but the pulsar coil is only available from Yamaha as an integrated component of the stator assembly (part of the wire loom). You can get a coil from RMStator but you will need to splice it into your wire loom and you might need to modify it to get the correct alignment. Several people have mentioned having to hog out the mounting holes to allow the pulsar coil to move into the correct position (clearance from rotor). I am going to follow this route on a spare stator assembly that way I will have a complete set ready in case this pops up again. Its a ~$50 part (pulsar) and the stator is over $300 so if I can bring the old one back to spec by swapping out the pulsar its a good deal.
 
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