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Sr Viper 2016 flash poll and Thread

Let us know how your Viper start when cold with the new ECU flash

  • start instantly

    Votes: 21 13.7%

  • Now it take 2 attemps to start

    Votes: 114 74.5%

  • start better than before

    Votes: 19 12.4%

  • no difference

    Votes: 7 4.6%

  • My speedometer is now unaccurate

    Votes: 17 11.1%

  • Has your sled stalled since latest flash

    Votes: 7 4.6%

  • Has Your sled had a extremely loud backfire since flash

    Votes: 8 5.2%
  • Total voters
    153
cannondale27 said:
Entire flash is serial number based that's why in 15 when us 14 guys got the flash and wanted to go back to old we couldn't. When hooked up it only installs what the serial number calls for all automatically. If its not required it just doesn't proceed.
Click to expand...
Ok so that's even more weird now, if I understand what your saying...is that if the sled doesn't fall within those serial numbers then it won't allow the program to proceed?
 

There is a way around all of that but it involves Cat not Yamaha. Upei93 may have to resort to finding a good Cat dealer who knows people at factory to get his corrected if normal channels don't work and its not a track install error with the magnets.
 
I have a buddy at the dealer that keeps me up to date but this just came in the mail to make it official.

20170126_192852_resized.jpg
 
IMG_0009.JPG
cannondale27 said:
Your sled is so rare. I suspect you and your dealer are going to have to call Corporate to get your speedo fixed or maybe its just that when track was replaced magnets got put in wrong and you just never noticed till now?

You see the issue? You have a XTX with 7 tooth drivers. According to this your sled does not exist.
122825
Click to expand...

I have a set of 8 tooth sitting next to me so I'm not really sure if I need the new flash now that I see this...plan is to go to 8 tooth with a 22 top gear...I'm actually more worried about getting this problem fixed.
 
cannondale27 said:
What is that? Turbo controller?Looks like some belt hanging in your hand too.
Click to expand...
Was over boosting and pretty sure I have a stage 2 controller on a low boost set up...from MPI

Electronic Boost Units were mistakenly programmed with a Stage 2 code (this code is NOT compatible with Pump Gas and is NOT compatible with a Stock Motor). IMMEDIATELY Discon- nect the EABC using any of the 3 Options described below. You only need to do one of the 3 options to disarm the EABC system. Any of the 3 options will put the Electronic Boost Con- troller into a “DEFAULT” mode which will produce a SAFE 4 to 5 PSI of Boost. There is no safety liability to driving with the EABC bypassed; you simply will not see boost increase as you increase altitude. At some point, you will need to remove the EABC Black Box for Re-Program- ming. The Single Red wire is simply Unplugged. The 2 Wires connecting EABC to the Solenoid are simple unplugged. The MAP Sensor plug to the EABC (3 wires) is unplugged from the MAP sensor BUT, the wiring connecting the GEMS (flat box with 3 buttons and 8 lights) MUST re- main connected. Re-Flashed Units are identified by a WHITE or GREEN paint dot on the phillips screw’s head.

So I'm trying to sort this mess out...as soon as I unhooked the red wire boost was fine...put 3-400 miles on it last year with no gauges...lucky I didn't grenade it.
 
upei93 said:
Was over boosting and pretty sure I have a stage 2 controller on a low boost set up...from MPI

Electronic Boost Units were mistakenly programmed with a Stage 2 code (this code is NOT compatible with Pump Gas and is NOT compatible with a Stock Motor). IMMEDIATELY Discon- nect the EABC using any of the 3 Options described below. You only need to do one of the 3 options to disarm the EABC system. Any of the 3 options will put the Electronic Boost Con- troller into a “DEFAULT” mode which will produce a SAFE 4 to 5 PSI of Boost. There is no safety liability to driving with the EABC bypassed; you simply will not see boost increase as you increase altitude. At some point, you will need to remove the EABC Black Box for Re-Program- ming. The Single Red wire is simply Unplugged. The 2 Wires connecting EABC to the Solenoid are simple unplugged. The MAP Sensor plug to the EABC (3 wires) is unplugged from the MAP sensor BUT, the wiring connecting the GEMS (flat box with 3 buttons and 8 lights) MUST re- main connected. Re-Flashed Units are identified by a WHITE or GREEN paint dot on the phillips screw’s head.

So I'm trying to sort this mess out...as soon as I unhooked the red wire boost was fine...put 3-400 miles on it last year with no gauges...lucky I didn't grenade it.
Click to expand...
I am sure some Turbo guys will help you out. I recall a few posts on this subject. Try searching EABC. Good luck!
 
CooperT said:
Well m

My buddies sled wasn't in the window for his model, but it still accepted the program
Click to expand...
All paperwork including manuals are to be considered suspect. Maybe the window was wrong. Its kind of like the cops. Say you have your Drivers license right in your hand. If Police run it in and its invalid you get a ticket or worse! Don't ask how I know. Was a long time ago!
 
cannondale27 said:
Ok I beg to differ. When 17 Flash #2 came out my dealer was directly informed by Yamaha that it was to correct the speedo error in the 17 #1 flash. The error in Speedo was there whether or not the complete flash was installed or not. Seeing how they are flashed I have a hard time believing that its even possible for the sled to run unless the flash is completed fully. I believe if a tech was blamed it is just a case of someone passing the buck to cover for Yamahas error.If your speedo is off just get 17#2 flash and go ride. If you want to blame someone blame Corporate not the poor tech. Guys IF and I don't believe it for a minute but IF the flash was not completed that is also Yamaha who should be blamed for it. These downloads are easily made to be idiot proof in other words it forces you to complete entire thing in order. Any one of us could do the flash with 5 minutes of training. Do not overthink this. Do not blame anyone but Yamaha themselves.
Click to expand...

Yamaha has fool proofed the download process. During the first reflash if the connection was lost between the sled and Yamaha for any reason the ECU was not recoverable and needed to be sent back to Yamaha for reprogramming.

The current download process is excellent in that it does a self test at the end of the download process and if there is anything wrong with the download the computer automatically restarts the download process. You cannot have a bad download.
 
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