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Steering Slop, Broken Bushing?

Joined
Nov 19, 2018
Messages
162
Location
Above the Arctic Circle, Alaska
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2016 Yamaha Viper STX-DX 146
2021 Vk 540
I posted a couple of years ago about some steering slop, I've always just tighten the 17mm bolt and its been ok, it always loosens again, but i just keep tightening it. This time i went and had a really good look at it and I think the problem is that metal bushing is broken. Correct? I've looked at this forum and maybe i need that of oft bushing? If thats my problem, can someone give me a step by step process on how to swap it out? I no professional mechanic, but with some guidance I can usually fix the problem myself.
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I posted a couple of years ago about some steering slop, I've always just tighten the 17mm bolt and its been ok, it always loosens again, but i just keep tightening it. This time i went and had a really good look at it and I think the problem is that metal bushing is broken. Correct? I've looked at this forum and maybe i need that of oft bushing? If thats my problem, can someone give me a step by step process on how to swap it out? I no professional mechanic, but with some guidance I can usually fix the problem myself.
View attachment 154794 View attachment 154795
The whole crossmember is broke. Get the reinforcement kit which includes that piece. Don’t ride it till fixed. You got lucky there!
 
Yes and it’s easy but a bit time consuming. Air box has to come out and a air riveter is recommended

Just anticipating that ArcticRider won't have access to an air riveter as you recommend ... what is the alternative? I've wondered about this for myself as my sleds age.
 
Just anticipating that ArcticRider won't have access to an air riveter as you recommend ... what is the alternative? I've wondered about this for myself as my sleds age.
I personally don't have one, I'll have to ask around here. Nothing is simple when living in the bush. Nearest parts store is 600 miles away, haha.
 
yamaha rivits are notoriously hard to do with a standard pop riviter. a big daddy riviter is easyer but they are the size of a set of meduim bolt cutters. after doing a few a arm gaurds sets, tunnel extensions, running board braces/traction brackets, bulkhead replacements, and a couple of tunnel re rivits on apex/rx sleds, the hydraulic riviter is much easyer and gets into a lot of the spots. did one tunnel extension by hand and i bought a cheap hyd one the next day.
 
yamaha rivits are notoriously hard to do with a standard pop riviter. a big daddy riviter is easyer but they are the size of a set of meduim bolt cutters. after doing a few a arm gaurds sets, tunnel extensions, running board braces/traction brackets, bulkhead replacements, and a couple of tunnel re rivits on apex/rx sleds, the hydraulic riviter is much easyer and gets into a lot of the spots. did one tunnel extension by hand and i bought a cheap hyd one the next day.
what size hydraulic riviter, i should be able to find one on amazon, do i need the rivets too? or does the kit come with it?
 
Just anticipating that ArcticRider won't have access to an air riveter as you recommend ... what is the alternative? I've wondered about this for myself as my sleds age.
I will say that unless completely removing the a-arms and finding the biggest hand riveter made if I did not have a air riveter for structural parts of sled I would use small bolts with washers. I think a hand riveter does not get them tight enough.
 
Check out Harbor Freight if they ship to you, they have a air riveter for 40.00, bought one years ago and replaced 2 Polaris belly pans and worked great.
 
Check out Harbor Freight if they ship to you, they have a air riveter for 40.00, bought one years ago and replaced 2 Polaris belly pans and worked great.

that is about what i paid for my 1st one and i wore it out from using it.
 


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