Tunnel Protectors

[Mighty]

I stopped by my dealer today to look at their catalog and quickly browsing didn't see any. Parts guy claims they will be come installed from the factory.

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

I stopped by my dealer today to look at their catalog and quickly browsing didn't see any. Parts guy claims they will be come installed from the factory.

From Chris Reid's Sled Talk:

I confirmed the question regarding tunnel protectors on the Sidewinder. None of the sleds come with tunnel protectors. However the new tunnel strip heat exchangers have been designed to serve double duty as the protectors. You only need to add three short aluminum pieces to the rear most cooler and you’re good to go.

 

[Michigandir]

Just bought a 2023 SRX. I want to add studs with with tunnel protectors. My question is, the aluminum protectors that you need to epoxy and screw in, I’m scared I’m gonna screw into heat exchanger ! Any advice before I screw up my new sled.

 

[Mighty]

The screws do not screw into the exchanger. They simply rest against the exchanger keeping the guard from sliding out should the epoxy fail. Which it won’t. Start the screws before installing. Apply the epoxy and push the protectors back just past the exchanger. Screw the screws in all the way then pull the protectors forward until the screws touch the exchanger

 

[Michigandir]

The screws do not screw into the exchanger. They simply rest against the exchanger keeping the guard from sliding out should the epoxy fail. Which it won’t. Start the screws before installing. Apply the epoxy and push the protectors back just past the exchanger. Screw the screws in all the way then pull the protectors forward until the screws touch the exchanger

The screws do not screw into the exchanger. They simply rest against the exchanger keeping the guard from sliding out should the epoxy fail. Which it won’t. Start the screws before installing. Apply the epoxy and push the protectors back just past the exchanger. Screw the screws in all the way then pull the protectors forward until the screws touch the exchanger

directions not real clear I appreciate the reply. Does that work on all three. So the screws are just stick thru protectors and act like stops

 

[74Nitro]

Just bought a 2023 SRX. I want to add studs with with tunnel protectors. My question is, the aluminum protectors that you need to epoxy and screw in, I’m scared I’m gonna screw into heat exchanger ! Any advice before I screw up my new sled.

I run studs and have never had to add any more protection. Be sure to keep your track set to specs or slightly tighter as it can overthrow the front drivers and studs will touch the ribs.
Congrats on your purchase. If you're coming off a Nytro like I did a few years ago you're gonna be just smitten with your new weapon.

 

[Mighty]

Yes, screws in all 3 and they are only there as stops.

 

[**sj**]

Just bought a 2023 SRX. I want to add studs with with tunnel protectors. My question is, the aluminum protectors that you need to epoxy and screw in, I’m scared I’m gonna screw into heat exchanger ! Any advice before I screw up my new sled.

I highly recommend stm rear propertie protector instead that install with t bolts and nuts.. but neither oem or them protect for aggressive studs or protect the forward crossover hose..stm front protection does this

 

[Michigandir]

I run studs and have never had to add any more protection. Be sure to keep your track set to specs or slightly tighter as it can overthrow the front drivers and studs will touch the ribs.
Congrats on your purchase. If you're coming off a Nytro like I did a few years ago you're gonna be just smitten with your new weapon.

Thanks

Yes, screws in all 3 and they are only there as stops.

I am so glad I asked. Thank you

 

[KnappAttack]

I run studs and have never had to add any more protection. Be sure to keep your track set to specs or slightly tighter as it can overthrow the front drivers and studs will touch the ribs.
Congrats on your purchase. If you're coming off a Nytro like I did a few years ago you're gonna be just smitten with your new weapon.

Your at risk for putting the studs into the rear exchanger if it lands too hard on the tail and its exactly why the protectors are offered for the rear exchanger. I've seen them run without however, but if the suspension moves just so, its quite a risk to take IMO.

I highly recommend stm rear propertie protector instead that install with t bolts and nuts.. but neither oem or them protect for aggressive studs or protect the forward crossover hose..stm front protection does this

Any protector on the forward narrow exchangers insulate the exchanger making the exchanger less efficient, along with taking up valuable space for the track to grow and ballon. If the track balloons into them its like putting the brake on and would hurt the MPH, I've seen it happen on many sleds over the years. Even without them, the track ballons/hits the factory exchangers with the track tight, now I think its doing it under deceleration and not under power, but I wouldn't ever put a protector over the exchange myself just because its going to limit the ability to cool alone on a trail sled.

If you are running a sled with long enough studs to hit the tunnel, the studs are too long to do any good anyway. Long studs just flex backwards and don't hold the ice/snow anyway, but there are lots of trail riders that don't know any better and believe its the way to go using these super long studs. You are far better off with more normal and shorter studs that don't flex and rip out of the track. Pattern and placement are far more important than length of the stud anyway.

 

[**sj**]

Your at risk for putting the studs into the rear exchanger if it lands too hard on the tail and its exactly why the protectors are offered for the rear exchanger. I've seen them run without however, but if the suspension moves just so, its quite a risk to take IMO.




Any protector on the forward narrow exchangers insulate the exchanger making the exchanger less efficient, along with taking up valuable space for the track to grow and ballon. If the track balloons into them its like putting the brake on and would hurt the MPH, I've seen it happen on many sleds over the years. Even without them, the track ballons/hits the factory exchangers with the track tight, now I think its doing it under deceleration and not under power, but I wouldn't ever put a protector over the exchange myself just because its going to limit the ability to cool alone on a trail sled.

If you are running a sled with long enough studs to hit the tunnel, the studs are too long to do any good anyway. Long studs just flex backwards and don't hold the ice/snow anyway, but there are lots of trail riders that don't know any better and believe its the way to go using these super long studs. You are far better off with more normal and shorter studs that don't flex and rip out of the track. Pattern and placement are far more important than length of the stud anyway.

The protectors have been used by the fastest sidewinders and Thundercat sleds since 2012.. never an issue with cooling.. and standard recommended studs equal slow sidewinders that get beat by lesser sleds..

anyone who knows what they’re doing will Have a good pattern and big traction if they ever line up even for fun

Guys adding power without Big traction is a waste of time and money .. big traction is a choice .. and while trail riding is of no hindrance..

There is absolutely no negative to stm tunnel protection, only positives

 

[KnappAttack]

You can put a lot longer stud than recommended without hitting the tunnel running any added protection to the front portion narrower coolers.

If you add a plastic piece to that cooler you marginalize the cooling effect of snow getting to them, that’s just common sense. It will act as an insulator. How is that not a negative?

 

[74Nitro]

Your at risk for putting the studs into the rear exchanger if it lands too hard on the tail and its exactly why the protectors are offered for the rear exchanger. I've seen them run without however, but if the suspension moves just so, its quite a risk to take IMO.




Any protector on the forward narrow exchangers insulate the exchanger making the exchanger less efficient, along with taking up valuable space for the track to grow and ballon. If the track balloons into them its like putting the brake on and would hurt the MPH, I've seen it happen on many sleds over the years. Even without them, the track ballons/hits the factory exchangers with the track tight, now I think its doing it under deceleration and not under power, but I wouldn't ever put a protector over the exchange myself just because its going to limit the ability to cool alone on a trail sled.

If you are running a sled with long enough studs to hit the tunnel, the studs are too long to do any good anyway. Long studs just flex backwards and don't hold the ice/snow anyway, but there are lots of trail riders that don't know any better and believe its the way to go using these super long studs. You are far better off with more normal and shorter studs that don't flex and rip out of the track. Pattern and placement are far more important than length of the stud anyway.

I'm getting forgetful as I get older it seems. I have put protectors on the back cooler for some of the sleds I studded.
However, I didn't on my own, over 6000 miles and not a mark.

 

[Trailleader]

I ran stms on my tcats and did it because we were running 1.86 triggers in 1 inch tracks and there were no hits. Went back to 1.63 in them and have run the aluminum cat and stms and both work.
I prefer full length protectors when running long studs such as 3/4 past lug.
I agree with the aluminum on aluminum and that’s what my Polaris has now. Full length aluminum on aluminum cooler.
I can’t say I had cooling issues on the Tcat though either so the stms are an option

 

[74Nitro]

I highly recommend stm rear propertie protector instead that install with t bolts and nuts.. but neither oem or them protect for aggressive studs or protect the forward crossover hose..stm front protection does this

The front hose issue is a whole different subject that has been well documented here. They sometimes end up leaking because the tunnel area is weak and ice buildup pushes the front of the long skinny cooler up. That results in the hose cutting on the nipple from the inside.