i replaced the upper cover in your pic as the liner was basically gone on my 11. the lower was fine at that time other than i glued the lower in place with high heat silicone. i have used that style on betsy when stock failed and on an atv to sheild the plastics from the exh heat.
a picture...
pulling the studs out usually lets you make the end of the season or longer with a track. you just cannot ride as agressively as you did with studs.
i have personally taken a 20000 km studded track that was pulling through quite a few and removed all the studs. i used this track on another...
that is what the old pro action used on a metal sleeve for the idler wheels. never could keep those tight. we switched all those plastic and stock sleeve out on ours for the acessory mount kit for the billet wheels yamaha used to offer. always stays tight now on those sleds. jut remove them...
welcome!
you will not need that kit for exh for quite a few miles yet. i got over 12000 mi (19000 km) on stock dounuts on my 2011. it is at almost 24000 mi now and they are still checking good.
get it set for your weight/riding style and you will enjoy that sled. i have 13000 km on my 16 atm...
lol well i am the nut that is out riding at -30 so i make sure all my stuff starts well. i do have coolant heaters on both apex's but they have never been used. biggest thing i learned was on here from guys in the territories. always hold the key in the start position until it hits one more...
Put a meter on the battery leads and start unplugging things until the draw stops. I would start with the voltage regulator as I have heard of them shorting and causing a draw when the sled/atv is not running.
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