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Glad you responded to him DMCTurbo. I had something great all typed up and just deleted it. I for one am done with his stupid statements & idiotic posts that seem to contradict themselves. It's getting old for me.... He must have come from Facebook or something, there seems to be a correlation...

So would a HRC-4 race sled, all the spare parts to go with it, truck and trailer to haul it around and a pit crew . See where I'm going with this. You don't need any of that stuff to activate the data logging, but if you want to upgrade like that, might as well dream big I guess.....

Or will it? I have a sled in here with the shim in the back and the rear of the carbides are really worn, I know from experience, that if you tip the ski up in the front with a product like SnowTrackers or even the stock carbide that has the staggered bar up front, that if they don't touch the...

Data logging is $250 to activate. Not sure what your talking about $6000 for....

Drop the multiplier to zero and work up from there. You might end up say at 50-70% to hit your number. You can drop the boost to say -2 in app from target too depending on how much you are over boosting. Playing with the boost and WGV duty multiplier should get you in the window.

What is the waste gate duty cycle multiplier set at on the app? Try lowering it if its set high, also what is the boost + or - set at? Otherwise you'll have no choice but to lower the wastegate spring. What's the crack pressure now?

When the module takes a crap doesn't it revert to firm? I thought I remember reading that somewhere. Exactly the reason I DON'T want electronically controlled shocks. Same issue with the Doo smart shocks.

6&2

More work and less yapping. You're not going to be quick enough JT, not even close, I'm here to tell you. You will need a whole bunch more, better get to work and quit the internet racing BS. Real racers let the sled do the talking.

Same, I always do wide, if I could get wider a-arms I'd do that too.

When I watched the track change video online, It looked like the same old brake caliper and slip fit of the ProCross design. Looked like no change to me at all. Which would be a sin, but the BOP shaft saver should work on it if so.

We still have zero snow here in Welch MN and I saw on the news yesterday that December for MN was 20 Degrees over average for the month, and had zero days at average temps. January so far has been 10 Degrees over average temps. No ridable snow in the forecast. Been tough to see. We had a real...

Uggggg. I HATED that 1100 Cat/Suzuki twin. Yes, it made decent power, but has been said it sounded like a sick lawnmower. Twins sound like crap no matter the firing order. Harley sound like crap too! Four cylinders are where its at, especially Yamaha four cylinder engines with cushioned PTO...

Ahhhhhhhh no. There are certain tune companies out there that have terrible knock detection systems that dont work good at all, and there are others that turn down the sensitivity as not to see the dash flashing so much. There have been many engines go down that people don't talk about.... See...

I've only seen them against the shoulder. Except for the one Winder I had here that we took the snapring off the shaft to get clutch alignment and it vibrated the bearing outward as he was still floating the secondary. I now no longer remove the snapring unless bolting the secondary down solid...

Push the assembly in, its pretty simple. You cant mess it up. The housing will push the seal into the engine. The seal sits on the small portion of the shaft, not the larger portion, its only there because it got forced there when it got pulled out, slide it back so its next too the housing...

Ohhh I like that TCat and RR. Awesome looking!

I have never had a sensor go bad, but have had the module go bad, this was prior to Closed Loop. If the sensor goes bad it will throw the code and revert to the base tune.

The only way anything has changed is if the center to center changed and/or the machining on the clutch faces or sheaves has changed, which I'm pretty sure it hasn't. It still runs the same belt and the clutches look the same. The Hurricane bar should still work fine, I'm going to check my 23...

They don't compare. Hurricane ring is adding rotational mass which is what is really needed to dampen the clutch harmonics. The ring and grease is IMO a gimmick. I fired my sled up the other day with the TAPP primary and I still have rattle, yes the TAPP still rattles a bit too with a few miles...