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Made a crude jig last night to so I could get the post tube held in the correct position for the T-top to be perpendicular to the steering arm. Tacked it last night, I will finish welding it today.

Since my steering is direct from bars to steering arm with no additional linkages I believe I am 1:1.

No I haven’t. What would/could be 3D printed?

Following. Could you measure the diameter of the avid drivers once you get them?

U-joint welded to steering arm and added a grease zerk.

Shaved 13% off the steering arm, from 270g to 234g, enough to offset the weight of the bolt & nut that secure the pivot tube. Also got the u-joint trimmed down as much as possible on each end. Finally ready to weld it up.

Will do. Is it necessary after drilling the hole to file a small groove lengthwise so grease gets distributed evenly or is just the hole good enough?

Made some progress on the steering. Got the oilite bushing turned down and then cut to length. Shortened it enough to be able to get a puller in between it and the u-joint once it’s welded so the bushing can easily be replaced. I originally drilled the frame for a 12mm bolt since that’s...

Need some opinions on steering bushing material. This is for the steering arm. 1. Oilite bushing over aluminum sleeve 2. Oilite bushing over 4130 steel sleeve 3. UHMW bushing over aluminum sleeve 4. UHMW bushing over 4130 steel sleeve Lightest is UHMW, but not sure what would be “best”. Both...

Could not decide to what to do on clutch side to stiffen plate so I just welded a short piece of 1/2 x .035 square tube on. Took the little bit of flex out of the brake caliper. If it’s not enough down the road I can weld a vertical piece of 1/2 in if it becomes necessary.

Spent a few hours searching Google and here prior to posting. The Apex jackshaft is already hollow. I would like to look into gun drilling the driveshaft. Just want to get an idea of costs and if anyone knows a shop that is able to do it. Googled only produced a few large machine shops that...

Tack welded nuts to the backside of the chaincase tabs. With the narrow tunnel and design of the chassis getting a wrench on the nuts would have been difficult. This will make chaincase installation a breeze. It’s also positioned exactly where I want and there’s pretty much no slop so it takes...

Rear motor mounts tacked in place. Used .090 plate, 0.2 lbs for all 4 tabs. Some of them are tight but clearing is clearing. Pulled the motor so I can pull the frame from the jig and get them welded up. Also going to weld nuts on the back of the chaincase tabs while the frame is out.

Busy all summer keeping the RZR going every weekend. Leaving in a few days for a hunt then back to the sled. Cleaned the shop and got the frame out to finish the rear motor mounts.

Spent tonight rechecking alignment. In addition to clutches being parallel I put bolts in the rear motor mounts and measured the distance to the jackshaft. I tweaked the motor position just a little and was able to tighten up all the numbers. Measured probably a hundred times to try and get...

Ok, so round 2. Borrowed a bar from Dad for checking flatness of cylinder heads. The piece of aluminum I was using was not perfectly flat. Went to the store and bought a piece of 1.5”x1.5”x1/8 aluminum angle and made an alignment tool that fits good and is perfectly flat. Checked against bar...

Would like some opinion on how parallel the clutches need to be. I added a shim to the secondary to take the play out so it would be tight for measuring offset. Had a couple clutch alignment bars that weren’t totally flat(these were throwing me off last night) so I ended up modifying a piece of...

Secondary is done. It has been a lot of extra work building this as narrow as possible since the Yamaha Apex drivetrain is meant for a much wider chassis. Finished shaving down the back of the secondary flush with the bushing to get all available clearance from the bearing flange. Had to...

Jackshaft is done. Started with my alignment tool, had to egg out the mount holes in jig at bottom to lower it a fuzz to be perfectly parallel to driveshaft. Double checked it was parallel to suspension mounts and square with frame. Once it was set I traced around the bearing. Zero...

I would love to see some other build threads get started, even if the progress is really slow like mine. I still read thru old build threads on here and Snowest all the time looking for ideas.