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Changing gears for a minute. I have been working on the driveshaft the last few nights. Taking my time to get alignment perfect. Bolted the chaincase in, there is a little movement in the chaincase holes and I have it positioned perfectly so I’m going to tack weld the nuts on the back of the...

I couldn’t run the steering post straight to the arm, it would lower it too much and get into my charge tube at the throttle bodies. I could have bent a steering post similar to the Ski-Doo revs and then that would have worked. If I build a version 2.0 I will try and figure out a way to get rid...

Do you think a UHMW bushing would be better? I have large enough round stock, I could make one similar to the oil lite out of UHMW.

Looking for steering suggestions. Couple pics of how steering is going to be setup. U-joint welded to steering arm and 1.125 x .058 post with 2 Polaris clamps. The steering arm will have some kind of bushing in it and slide over a sleeve that is bolted to the frame. Frame has a 12mm hole but...

Factory AC spindles, same as sidewinder.

The shock bearings that come standard in the WE air shocks are some kind of plastic(UHMW maybe) spherical bearing with a steel inner ball and are retained with steel snap rings. I would have had to make 8 aluminum reducers/spacers for these and I didn’t want to add weight. I test fit a bushing...

It’s possible for sure. I did some math last night and if I replaced all the 1” x .049 and .058 with .035 and made some of my brackets out of thinner material I think I could drop another 4 lbs but durability with the .035 in the motor mount and lower a-arm area would be unknown. Worth testing...

One last pic I took before going back in the jig.

Took a few minutes to figure out the flex but it was just the jig shock towers flexing forward a little, the frame itself has no flex, huge relief to not have to weld in any more tube.

Went back and forth between using .090 plate or 1x1/2x.035 rectangle for the gusset. The rectangle gave 3” of weld vs 2” on the gusset and I figured rectangle would be less likely to tear away in tension. Weight was the same for both. I would do the front a little different next time so the tube...

1” tubes done and plugged the holes in the top of the lower tubes. Going to weld in the upper a-arm gussets tonight and then it’s back into the jig for a frame flex test.

Got some tedious stuff done. Figured out where the new tubes need to be and installed hose clamps so there wouldn’t be any guess work once it was back in the jig. Ground down the steering arm bracket some more so I would have ample tie rod clearance. I didn’t grind all the way thru but I...

Found an old pic of Ricks(rlcofmn)chassis. He was at 49 lbs with all the steering but no rear suspension mounts, cooling or tunnel skin. His frame was built very strong. Sadly it never got finished. I’ll stand by what I said earlier, anything under 50 lbs with coolers is going to be really...

I tried .040 tungsten and ended going back to 1/16, I don’t know what you used but I have an easier time with the 1/16 and .045 filler. Glad to hear your frame is holding up. If I can get some good testing in this next winter then I will do a version 2.0 and pickup bend tech for sure...

Your sled has been done for a few years now, have you had any cracks develop around the welds?

Back to making forward progress. I wanted to get some temporary steering stops put in not only for figuring out tie rod clearance but to make fabricating the stop on the steering post easy. Put the 10.75 struts back in and placed the stops so the spindle has about a .060 gap from the a-arm...

I have a little ways to go before I will be able to do that but I will measure again when I get to that point. Going to leave it as is for now and not worry about it.

Mine ended up 16.376. Factory spec you posted was 16.33 so mine are .046 longer which apparently makes a difference. What I’m going to do for now is just run an additional .080 washer under the tie rod end and then clearance my steel bracket.

Got the front suspension back on and ran into another hiccup. Alignment is fairly close and upper rod ends are about where they should be. Also pulled the thick washer back out from below the steering arm so it’s in factory location. So right now it should be 100% factory geometry. Have about...

I agree, it’s frustrating because redoing something like that is 2-3 nights in the shop after kids go to bed but I will be happier with the end result and will have it all figured out if I build another. Since my new tubes will tie in further back I decided to reinforce the lower tube/a-arm...