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For your push in the corners. The swaybar and other things mentioned helps a lot, but the also found we need to drive different than a 2-stroke. Takes some practice, but drive further into the corner and roll off the throttle right as you start to turn to set the outside ski, and then roll...

The charts show which parts are "New" meaning they are likely not interchangeable. The helix is listed as "New". I would be surprised if you could use the stock helix with rollers.

You can just cut one window (in the track) wide enough for the sliders. You may find this already done if you got the sled used and the track was already on it.

With more power the tipped up rails like to wheelie, even will limiter straps in stock position. The turbo guys found this a bit. Of course with the Cat chassis and skid, the tip-up is not really an option without some redesign.

Plan to be at Birch Run.

Almost made it up, but wasn't to be. Glad you guys had fun !!! I have enjoyed spring riding in the woods up there for many years now.

You should be able to get seals online, but you might have to by a certain quantity. These are not specific to the snowmobile industry. Which bearings do you have in it now? What are the numbers on the seals?

Try a different belt to eliminate that.

The front arm might be tweaked somehow, or where it mounts (either end) is egged out. I don't know that skid real well, but looking again at all of these pictures it has to something like this. I would pull the skid and remove the shocks/springs. Then carefully move it through the travel to...

If power and reliability is real (have to wait and see for a season), and the weight is in line, then the BTX is for me. I still run my old 02/03 Viper Mtn (avatar) and struggle to keep up with the new polaris and doo backcountry sleds. Would be nice to take a jump forward. On the other hand...

That is why that piece is there, but keep and eye on it. You don't want it wearing jagged and possibly cutting the track.

Generally the track walks to the opposite side from the one that causes the track to be tighter at that point.

It is designed to run on premium but with all of the sensors it will run on regular with possible reduced power. Somewhere there is a little write-up on this.

Post more pictures, maybe one of us can see something odd. Especially the drive axle where it goes through the tunnel on bothis sides.

Is your tunnel bent?

Farm Implement dealer near me. I already knew they had the stuff from numerous previous visits. I always thought it was similar stuff, but once I put them side by side they are likely the same stuff. Any Farm and Fleet or Tractor Supply or similar store should also have it. This stuff was...

Thanks Paul. I think I am done with "testing" that skid. Too much time on it already. :D How has your riding been?

I made replacement limiter straps out of baler belting. Very likely the same stuff that Yamaha used in the first place. I made them a bit wider (50 mm) except where they have to go through the guides. I am thinking about adding another 50 mm strip to the nut side. What do you guys think?

I am surprised that a dealer tech can't find the issue. Hopefully the Yamaha Tech knows his stuff.

I would be worried about my driveshaft location and square as well. I you are sure your skid is square, the track tension equal on both sides, and nothing else bent, then I suspect the drive axle. Has anyone removed the drive axle and checked it out, bearings and all?