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Got the remaining 6 skid plate tabs made from .063 and tacked in place. Total weight was 0.16 lbs for all 6 tabs which is well under what I wanted. I will install 6mm rivnuts after painting. I’m not sure what I am doing for a skid plate. I was thinking 1/8 aluminum to keep it easy but also...

Summer is coming but still trying to pick away at the things I need to get done before sandblasting and paint. Got the 1/2” tubes (with blue tape) tacked in place on each side. Added 0.13 lbs for both. Should take all the flex out for supporting the gas tank. Instead of having to fabricate...

Finished the upper tabs. Had to strip it down to the bare frame again to get access for welding them. These are .063 as well. Probably could have used .040 for all of them but .063 is more forgiving to my welding ability. Raised the tabs until the sheet cleared the set screws in the lock...

With the bottom two screws removed the plate should flex back far enough to remove the filter, that was the idea anyway, I’ll verify when I install the motor again after doing the top tabs. HDPE is lighter given equal thicknesses but there is zero rigidity to thin HDPE so it works well in some...

Middle tabs done out of .063. Screws for now, final assembly will probably be solid rivets. Depends on if I powder coat the sheet or attach of a piece of HDPE to it. I don’t want to leave it bare aluminum to prevent snow build up. Need to do a tab on each side at the top and then notch out...

Forgot how much time all the little tabs take. Lower tabs, made from .063 4130 plate. Incorporated skid plate mounts as well to save weight. Top 5mm hole is for the tunnel block off, lower hole will get a 6mm rivnut after the frame is painted. Should have the rest of the tabs done in a few days...

Had to take the motor in and out a couple times to verify starter clearance with some practice pieces. Couple practice bends first and then got the final piece bent up. I need to notch out for the jackshaft bearing carrier and weld some tabs to the frame in a couple spots to rivet it to. I...

Put the motor in to start working on the front tunnel block off. I forgot I had moved the engine back as far as possible to get the weight back. Clearance to the oil filter will be tight but I’ll make sure I am able to flex my block off plate out of the way when unscrewed so I can get the filter...

I don’t think the zip ties will break. I used cheap ones for now but I have some really nice 50 lb zip ties I get from the aviation store that are a different type of plastic and have a metal clip. Easy enough to carry a couple extra zip ties out riding. Only one way to find out though! The...

Couple years ago I made a heat shield for the header that was just larger than the header. My plan at the time was to do carbon fiber for the rest. Fast forward to now and I recut a larger piece. Fuel tank will cover the top of the tubes so snow can’t get trapped in between. The sheet is .040...

I’ll get the motor in next and see what the front close off is going to look like. My other thought was to use plywood to make the shape of the enclosure with the front and sides all a single piece then make a fiberglass mold from the plywood for building a CF enclosure. I do like the HDPE...

I think if I did tabs & rivets I would use aluminum or carbon fiber panels so I could cut the amount of tabs in half. I still have to enclose the front around the track and headers as well so I may still end up with a once piece carbon insert. I need to get the motor and header installed and see...

Played around with the HDPE tonight on the clutch side. Only made it as large as necessary to keep my boots out of the track. My plan for the all the tube work is to wrap it in UHMW tape after it’s painted to keep snow from sticking to it. Anywho, started out with it in 2 pieces. Quickly...

I bought the HDPE. Figured I should commit to something before getting stuck in analysis paralysis again.

Need to revisit paneling for the tunnel sides. Local plastic supplier has 4x8 sheets of .060 HDPE for $188. Thinking of maybe cutting the side pieces out of this and then just zip tying them in a few spots to the frame tubes? Would be easier than welding tabs and using rivets. Any thoughts? I...

Got the ski rubbers fit and skis bolted on for good. Ski Stance is right under 36”.

My order of 7075 bolts from Pro Bolt USA finally showed up today. I got a 10mm aluminum speedo gear bolt Factory steel bolt 28.28g (with gear 60.93g) Titanium bolt 11.46g Aluminum bolt 5.69g (with countersunk gear 25.51g) I also got 6mm aluminum bolts for the speed sensor. Steel bolts...

No idea to be honest, I kinda quick keeping track of the weight loss. There’s been so many changes along the way with frame design, hardware, ect that I stopped trying to add it all up. I will be surprised if it is over 400 lbs though. Body shrouds will be minimal and super light. I’ll only...

Finished the ski bushings tonight. Weights are for all 4 bushings. Listed left to right. - Factory steel 146.78 grams or 0.32 lbs - Alternative Impact titanium (bought these years ago) 80.76 grams or 0.18 lb - 6061 aluminum 49.80 grams or 0.11 lbs These are the wear bars I made years ago. I...

I have a 7075 bolt coming to the replace the Ti bolt currently securing the speedo gear lol. Ordered some 7075 hardware for the skis a week ago and got one 10mm for the speedo gear and also a couple 6mm to secure the sensor. Eventually I’ll get a few more for the chaincase cover. There’s a ton...