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Cannondale you hit the nail on the head, they handle so well that they just feel slow. A very deceiving sled. Your explanation of the 8jp belt was also very accurate. The belt itself was the issue, the cheapest alternative was the 8dn which kept performance consistent. That same consistent...

Yamaha clutches are designed so the belt will not reach the top. Machining can be done to the primary to achieve this..but also will need to do the secondary as well because if your primary shifts further than what your secondary does you’ll have bad problems. Also, when considering getting...

Keep in mind the width of different belts. 8dn and 8jp are same width. I’ve had great luck with gates carbon belt in the 8jp length which is a bit wider than the Yamaha belts. Not sure how other aftermarket belts compare. My biggest reasons for always going back to the gates belt is because of...

Can only do so much. I run an apex primary on mine which has set screws to hold the pins in place and there’s still some rattle noise. The harmonics of the 3 cylinder engine is a big factor.

I think the sleds can benefit from a stiffer spring, but that one is just very stiff. Strangely enough I also tried that spring in my 129” cat 800 and it worked well in that. I ended up settling on the stingray spring in that sled tho since it gave a better balance on ride quality and comfort...

I tried that spring on my ltx and found it to be extremely stiff for any type of leisurely trail riding. Just keep in mind that that particular spring is a 160/260# rate vs stock 135#..so not only a stiffer starting rate but much stiffer once compressed. For extremely aggressive riding I can see...

I run 84 grams at 12 psi with a gwg primary spring. Trail riding from 800’ up to 1500’ elevation.

Hard to tell I guess if that’s normal or not. When my helix is bolted on (no spring installed) there is no measurable play at all on the bushing..so I guess that’s a possibility. Do you have the spring in the proper holes/settings and twisting the helix clockwise when reinstalling it?

Check for Any type of binding at all, whether it be on the shaft or maybe some slag left behind from the castings.

I’d start by putting your secondary clutch together but without the spring in. Duplicate the shifting process by hand and make sure it’s shifting smoothly and not getting bound up someplace.

On an apex clutch they have Allen head set screws that you can tight up on the roller bushing just like what’s on the weight bushing, the viper clutch does not have the set screws on the roller bushing. I run a complete apex primary on my viper, no clutch rattle at all. You can add a washer...

Either we got 2 guys with a serious case of fat thumbs or auto correct is trying to tell us something lol. I was able to do some dyno testing a few years back after I had the engine done on mine. I have larger injectors as well as a pc5 pti, I use Ulmer’s mapping and it’s spot on all the time...

Before you do too much more I’ll give one big tip. If you’re doing long top speed runs and can’t keep the sled higher in the revs, don’t keep holding it wide open. At 8200 you’re making full boost but since it’s low you’re creating a lot of cylinder pressure..not a good combination in a turbo...

Viper came from the factory with tunnel protectors. One of the things I’d be more concerned about is how it starts both hot and cold. Ask him some questions on that, have him send you videos of a couple cold starts and a couple warm starts. Shouldn’t be hard to do a walk around video just...

Tug hill region here, hour from old forge.

Hard to really start playing with stuff without knowing what the actual weights are, they could simply be just too heavy for your sled even empty and you’ll never be able to get it right. If it ran good for you with the complete Ulmer kit except for hitting the rev limiter once you were at...

Best starting point will be to check and see what dalton weights you have. If you pull the primary clutch cover off along with the belt you’ll be able to push the primary clutch together and read on the side of the weights what model they are. That alone will tell you what your base weight is...

You have a good start. Head shim is the easiest and cheapest route while still having a reliable trail setup. Head studs go in at the same time. Bigger injectors for sure, I also have a rising rate fuel regulator on mine as well as an innercooler, I personally wouldn’t attempt it without an...

I ditched the gems on mine after the first season and went with the pc5 pti with Ulmer’s mapping and ignition module. Mine is one of the original stage 1 innercooled kits so never had an eabc on mine..however mine ran so much better with the pc5. Ulmer’s mapping is right on the money and I’d...

When my temp sensor went bad it was just screwy readings on the gauge, never went low enough to put it in limp mode and sled never stalled, just had huge changes in temp readings. Sled ran no different than any other day.