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Great looking work! But if you're already going with the Rev tank, then it would definitely be easier to just relocate the turbo closer to the engine. Getting it out the side can be done (easier if you can cut part of the frame), but you have the disadvantages of having the turbo further away...
Several have been used successfully - check Dynotech Research archives for one case. Way more adjustability (rpms, boost, accel pump), you can load and save up to 5 tuning maps, capture real-time stats with a button so you know where to tune, optional LED to determine load range, when accel is...
And if you're tuned for hotter air and the air temps drop, you need a way to add more fuel to go with the denser air (to make that extra 60hp) even though the intake pressure is the same as before with the hotter air. So intake air temperature compensation is something worth considering if you...
I'm sure others will chime in, but it's very likely your cam timing is off or a shim dropped inside the shim-bucket (measure each valve for proper clearance) - DON'T RUN THE SLED until you get it fixed or you WILL DAMAGE THE ENGINE! (like end up with bent valves or worse). Also, the extra...
For smaller injector pulse conditions (idle, off-idle, light-throttle), the bigger injectors are more sensitive since more fuel is flowing per pulse, which can make precise fuel control more difficult to attain. The control box modifies the injector signal after the ECU sends it out, but the...
Re: New header design and fuel tank.
The new header is part of the new twin-turbo setup (being tested now), but it could be used as an upgrade for a single mid-mount setup, using as much of the old kit as possible. I don't have much more info than that right now - stay tuned!
The header design does have some obviouos inefficiencies, but it was designed to solve the front-mount issues of having to modify/replace the gas tank, underhood heat problems, and the header cracking issues, but it still works very well for it's intended use (responsive boost in the 15-20lb...
I seem to remember several things were going on at once with MulotTubo's sled that made it difficult to identify the real issue (valves, cam timing, ignition timing, bigger injectors working properly, possible wiring issues, etc), but I'm real glad to see everything's finally working.
The...
You have about 4.6lbs less atmoshperic pressure at 10K' vs 0', you also have less exhuast backpressure, but the lesser air-density is a much bigger factor, making the turbo work harder at elevation. The GT28RS seems to still be efficient at 20lbs at elevation. We ride 8-10K ft. I personally...
It's true that a gt2860rs has been run up to 28psi, but you really need a bigger turbo to make boost efficiently if you're going to be running in that range. I don't know anyone who has run 24lbs reliably for very long with stock compression using race gas, but if you're careful you can make...
Some of the very early bottle valves (bigger & heavier chrome-plated brass) had the knob on the top with no serial number - these are not affected by the recall. The later valves (smaller/lighter and made from aluminum) have the knob on the side and should have a 6-digit serial number marked...
Since the carbon fiber bottles have a much higher service pressure rating (3000psi instead of 1800 for Al), they are allowed to use a higher rated burst valve (which is 5/3 the service pressure or 5000psi) so this is less of a concern for them, but the burst disk should still be serviced...
Anyone using a Boondocker Nitrous cylinder, please read the following notice:
Boondocker Safety Alert
Be aware that NOS currently has a safety recall in effect:
NOS Bottle Recall
As a safety reminder for all nitrous users, please remember, do not overfill your bottle, do not overheat...
The Boondocker kit (sidemount) has been changed to fit with the reverse and is available now, several phazers have already been installed and have been run up to 24lbs boost. This will really wake up the Phazer and make it a fun sled to ride!
Yes, I work for Boondocker. The amount of EXTRA fuel delivered at 60 will be double the EXTRA fuel at 30. The correlation of the fuel number to nitrous amount (10 fuel for 10 hp N2O) is sort of a coincidence, but gives a good starting point. Be careful your fuel pressure doesn't drop at the...
The lag is definitely from the fuel getting into the engine before the nitrous. Depending on where the nozzles are mounted, the more nitrous and fuel you add, the worse this will get. There is new programming available for the Boondocker box that allows you to set a delay to overcome this...
I think 165-167 is what's recommended in the instructions - but that's for using the K&Ns (you also have to cut or change your diaphram springs). For the stock airbox, you will probably have to go even bigger (maybe 170-190?) because there's a lot of negative pressure inside the airbox where...
You are definitely going to have to rejet richer if you're using the stock airbox. The reason is that the carb vents are now vented to inside the airbox instead of atmoshpere through the nitrous manifold(s). The airbox has low pressure at high rpms which will lean you out so you will need much...
No - that's a very BAD idea. You want to retain as much heat as possible in the header pipe - heat is the energy that spins the turbine. A lot of people have their pipes coated for this reason. Also the cold snow will quickly crack or warp the header pipe. On the dyno you will see the header...
Just curious as to how you did the pressure test. Did you completely block off each throttle body? Otherwise you will leak past the throttle plate (unless they are closed air-tight) or back through the intake/exhuast valves through the motor if they are open due to the camshaft. If you have a...
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