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'06 Apex in cool street car...how to clear codes when wiring all modified? Anyone? Lg wires for thumb and Yr for grip

S

Seann17

Newbie
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Messages
12
Age
68
Location
Markdale, Ontario
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
'06 Apex
Hi Folks,
Sorry for the "no snow" install, but finishing up this very cool project with some small issues. I had this all working but after tidying up some wiring "again", I can't get the 81 and 82 codes to leave. I have a small bulb in the circuits to trick the circuits and it all worked before. I'm wondering if it's just the codes haven't been cleared. Question is, how do I clear the codes without original switches in place?
 

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The codes only display if the problem remains.
They will be stored, however, if they're not cleared.
 
Got the diagnostics going and I'm showing 13 codes...12,13,14,15,21,22,23,42,43,81,82,83,84. Starts and idles fine, but when I try to raise the RPM it start to surge and misfire.
 

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LOL, that is basically every sensor the ECU is expecting. It would be shorter to list what is working which is the oil pressure switch, ignition, and voltage sensor.

The most concerning are 12,13

Codes are here:
Without addressing 12 at minimum you won't get far (crank position sensor) which is the pickup coil on the stator or the stator itself.
 
earthling said:
LOL, that is basically every sensor the ECU is expecting. It would be shorter to list what is working which is the oil pressure switch, ignition, and voltage sensor.

The most concerning are 12,13

Codes are here:
Without addressing 12 at minimum you won't get far (crank position sensor) which is the pickup coil on the stator or the stator itself.
Click to expand...
I'm going through it again, but remember, it starts and idles perfectly so I don't think 12 is a problem. If you look at the last attached photo, you'll see that everything that used to go in the airbox, now does not, so maybe 13 (now open to atmosphere) could be a problem. Thoughts? Thanks.
 
Seann17 said:
I'm going through it again, but remember, it starts and idles perfectly so I don't think 12 is a problem. If you look at the last attached photo, you'll see that everything that used to go in the airbox, now does not, so maybe 13 (now open to atmosphere) could be a problem. Thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

The pickup coil can cause weird effects. Starting but not running, backfiring, backfiring under throttle, etc, all of which are related to the engine not understanding where the timing really is. Its easy to test the stator because you can infer from the output voltage that it is indeed generating power. You can also get some information from the pickup coil by testing it (search here on the site for many examples).

Thinking about this some more, with all of those sensors complaining I would start checking your harness as the grouped sensors (e.g. 20,21,22,23) all share a common bus from the ECU. I don't think a stand-in load is going to satisfy all of the different conditions each of those systems are expecting.
 
earthling said:
LOL, that is basically every sensor the ECU is expecting. It would be shorter to list what is working which is the oil pressure switch, ignition, and voltage sensor.

The most concerning are 12,13

Codes are here:
Without addressing 12 at minimum you won't get far (crank position sensor) which is the pickup coil on the stator or the stator itself.
Click to expand...
I think he means that's the list of codes in memory.
 
74Nitro said:
I think he means that's the list of codes in memory.
Click to expand...
Codes are listed at top of thread...anyone have thoughts on how to clear codes without factory hand warm switch? I had a switch in the light green wire to a small grounded bulb, which did get rid of the 81 code at one point, but doesn't clear it now. I'd like to clear the codes and start fresh again.
 
If you have a switch wired properly, you should be able to clear the codes. No idea beyond that.

1721832691051.png
 
Codes all go away when fixed without having to clear them.
 
My grip wire is y/r (split), thumb is l/g...you'll see another l/g going straight down, but to what?
 

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If you are looking at 17 hanging off the ECU in the drawing you posted, those look like the actual grip heaters (resistive heating elements). The grip warmer switch is on the right of that drawing. I only have the service manual for the 2006-2010 and 2013 models, both of which show the grip heater switch as it is shown ( 21 ) in the drawing I posted. The reference number changes but it always shows it as single pole, double throw so its just a switch that allows you to toggle up or down based on which pole is connected.
 
Last edited:
Seann17 said:
Codes are listed at top of thread...anyone have thoughts on how to clear codes without factory hand warm switch? I had a switch in the light green wire to a small grounded bulb, which did get rid of the 81 code at one point, but doesn't clear it now. I'd like to clear the codes and start fresh again.
Click to expand...
Why does it matter if there's stored codes? Once you get things working right it doesn't matter if every code that exists is stored. None of them will be displayed while operating.
 
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