bolognarx1
Newbie
I am a 250lbs fella and bought a second hand 06 attak with 500 miles. i find that the suspension is not set up for a guy my size. Was wondering if there were any of you were my size and could let me now where i should have the supenions settings dialed in at. also, is it normal that the limiter strap has a bow in it, and not tight when the sled is sitting on level ground? Thanks in advance! Love this site! great for advice!
If you have studs, you have to match up the carbides with the number of studs. If you have old carbides that are not sharp, they need to be replaced, if you expect to turn on icy trails. Given that you have matched and sharp carbides, ...
Loosen ski springs such that the A-Arms are nearly parallel to the ground. Make sure you have equal pressure on the springs. You can use two scales (one under each Ski) and a 4"x4" under the track to get the same ski pressures, if you are a perfectionist. Otherwise, just count the turns of the nut to make them equal.
Depending on how much you weigh, you need to set the spring on the rear suspension's rear shock. The more you weigh the more pre-load on the spring. If you later find that you are bottoming, then you need more spring pressure. Do not overdo this setting.
Let the straps out fully, Then set rear suspension's front spring support washer so you have just enough tension on the support washer to keep it firmly in place.
Then test the sled. If it wheelies, then extend the control rods. If the rods are fully extended per the manual and it still wheelies, then shorten the straps. Once you have the control rods set, so that it no longer wheelies, then try some turns. If it pushes through the turns, tighten straps until you have the carbides digging in good enough to make the turn. Do not over do it.
Then once you all of the above right go back to the rear suspension's front spring. Adjust it so that you have just enough tension on it to keep the support washer in place.
From this starting place, if you need more ski pressure, then shorten straps. If you need less ski pressure, then lengthen straps. Whenever you do this, check that support washer to make sure the spring is firmly held in place but not overly compressed.
If you find that you have the straps out all the way, and there is still to much ski pressure, then you tighten up on the rear suspension's front spring to take up some of the weight off the skis.
Hope this helps.
Loosen ski springs such that the A-Arms are nearly parallel to the ground. Make sure you have equal pressure on the springs. You can use two scales (one under each Ski) and a 4"x4" under the track to get the same ski pressures, if you are a perfectionist. Otherwise, just count the turns of the nut to make them equal.
Depending on how much you weigh, you need to set the spring on the rear suspension's rear shock. The more you weigh the more pre-load on the spring. If you later find that you are bottoming, then you need more spring pressure. Do not overdo this setting.
Let the straps out fully, Then set rear suspension's front spring support washer so you have just enough tension on the support washer to keep it firmly in place.
Then test the sled. If it wheelies, then extend the control rods. If the rods are fully extended per the manual and it still wheelies, then shorten the straps. Once you have the control rods set, so that it no longer wheelies, then try some turns. If it pushes through the turns, tighten straps until you have the carbides digging in good enough to make the turn. Do not over do it.
Then once you all of the above right go back to the rear suspension's front spring. Adjust it so that you have just enough tension on it to keep the support washer in place.
From this starting place, if you need more ski pressure, then shorten straps. If you need less ski pressure, then lengthen straps. Whenever you do this, check that support washer to make sure the spring is firmly held in place but not overly compressed.
If you find that you have the straps out all the way, and there is still to much ski pressure, then you tighten up on the rear suspension's front spring to take up some of the weight off the skis.
Hope this helps.
bolognarx1
Newbie
yes that does thanks alot 
darv
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you need to set sag to 40-45mm on the spring with gear on i would hight recommend a shock revalve a and a big boy spring and you will love this sled
lawmanbsi
Expert
200lbs and heavier riders will need to replace the spring to what is called the fat boy spring and perhaps a revalve on the shock. I'm a pretty aggressive rider and these changes made a huge difference in the ride quality.
lawmanbsi said:
When you update your rear shock. Did that help with track tension?
Can you with fat boy spring have more transfer to track with your control rod with out track loosen under a WOT run and ratcheting. Have seen many that set control rod to max transfer and run track super tight. If you set control rod in middle(STD) or less you can have looser track with out ratcheting and more ski transfer to the front with stock rear monoshock.
lawmanbsi
Expert
I didn't like the handling with the tranfer rod extended. the only time I get racheting was in off trail riding and hill climbing (when I had it set loose). I'm back to running it tight. You'll have to play with it to get it how you like it. If you want to run a 4 stroke yamaha loose you will need to change over to an extrovert driver and open window track.
It doesn't take much time to change these setting on the trail. I've tried to do it at home and hope the changes worked but on the trail adjustments are the only way to get it dialled in for you riding style or conditions for the day. I make notes as to where I had the settings for the riding I was doing while making adjustments. Now I know what needs to be changed if my conditions change.
It doesn't take much time to change these setting on the trail. I've tried to do it at home and hope the changes worked but on the trail adjustments are the only way to get it dialled in for you riding style or conditions for the day. I make notes as to where I had the settings for the riding I was doing while making adjustments. Now I know what needs to be changed if my conditions change.
lawmanbsi said:
But if you have track super tight sled can over rev, if you do not have the right weight in primary. Sled will have hard time to shift out and more pressure on bearings. Taking notes is a good thing with this yamaha sleds
lawmanbsi
Expert
I have it set as loose as I can to stop racheting in deep snow. Super tight isn't how I would describe my setting.
bolognarx1
Newbie
They would have to call that spring a FAT BOY!
bolognarx1 said:
Yes. I have one in my sled. Im a little bigger
bolognarx1
Newbie
thanks guys you've been a great help. just curious what would the "fat boy" spring and the revalving cost?
lawmanbsi
Expert
spring is $90-100. revalve is $48 plus shipping through pioneer. If you're not in a hurry on the spring they show up in the clasified and ebay for about half that and you can find a local shop to recharge the shock. I have no clue as to how easy or difficult that can be in Nova Scotia.
bolognarx1
Newbie
perfect. thanks again.
