zeke800
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2010
- Messages
- 7
what does a guy have to do to your sled to go to the mountains. Revelstoke to be exact?? First time taking this sled to the mountains. Any help greatly appreciated
beeze455
Expert
remove sway bar, roll over kit, skis, track would be a good start.
sorenson1610
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2007
- Messages
- 1,746
- Location
- Rothschild,WI
- Website
- www.contrx.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016
beeze455 said:remove sway bar, roll over kit, skis, track would be a good start.
Might as well throw in some boost while your at it
natedawgedog
TY 4 Stroke Guru
zeke800 said:what does a guy have to do to your sled to go to the mountains. Revelstoke to be exact?? First time taking this sled to the mountains. Any help greatly appreciated
mainly to get your sled to the mountians you need to put it on a trailer and securely strap it down and have a vehicle that is able to tow that said snowmobile and trailer...
but really what you need is a better track than the stock ripsaw, clutching for the altitude that your going to be at and the stones to keep on the throttle. if you have an large budget a turbo really really helps out also!
Mtnviper
Vendor
For clutching/gearing
20/40 gears work well in the mountains for the XTX and a 2" track (recomended)
If you still have the stock track, then 20/39 would also work.
For clutching, the clutching chart for the elevation you'll be at is good place to start. Only instead of installing the heavier rivit in the tip and the lighter (or none) in the heel. Put the heavy rivits in the heel and the lighter/or none rivits in the tip. Use the same total mass, it's just moving the mass from the tip to the heel. This helps prevent over-reving on the bottom end and under-reving on the top end, that can occur with taller tracks at higher elevations.
For the secondary I run a 43-39 helix and a stock secondary spring.
Not sure what the elevation is at Revy, usually when tuning your RPMS for the mountains. It's best to tune it to the upper end of the power band or a slight over-rev for when your down low. Then as you head into the back country/higher elevation and start climbing the hills, the motor will still be in the power band (8600-8900)
For chasis set-up
Remove the sway bar as beeze455 mentioned above. For the rear skid in deep powder, pulling up the limiter straps one or two holes from stock reduces the track approach angle. Combined with backing off the front skid shock slightly and closing the gap on the transfer rods helps reduce trenching in deep dry bottomless powder.
If the snow is firmer or you have to ride a lot of rough trails to get to the back country while your there, I would leave the front skid shock preload alone.
Also if the snow is wet/heavy you could go with a little wider gap (stock) transfer rod setting.
X2 on the wider skis and taller track, they will help a LOT!
BTW don't forget an avy beacon, probe, shovel and to take an avy training class.
Be safe and have fun
Bill
20/40 gears work well in the mountains for the XTX and a 2" track (recomended)
If you still have the stock track, then 20/39 would also work.
For clutching, the clutching chart for the elevation you'll be at is good place to start. Only instead of installing the heavier rivit in the tip and the lighter (or none) in the heel. Put the heavy rivits in the heel and the lighter/or none rivits in the tip. Use the same total mass, it's just moving the mass from the tip to the heel. This helps prevent over-reving on the bottom end and under-reving on the top end, that can occur with taller tracks at higher elevations.
For the secondary I run a 43-39 helix and a stock secondary spring.
Not sure what the elevation is at Revy, usually when tuning your RPMS for the mountains. It's best to tune it to the upper end of the power band or a slight over-rev for when your down low. Then as you head into the back country/higher elevation and start climbing the hills, the motor will still be in the power band (8600-8900)
For chasis set-up
Remove the sway bar as beeze455 mentioned above. For the rear skid in deep powder, pulling up the limiter straps one or two holes from stock reduces the track approach angle. Combined with backing off the front skid shock slightly and closing the gap on the transfer rods helps reduce trenching in deep dry bottomless powder.
If the snow is firmer or you have to ride a lot of rough trails to get to the back country while your there, I would leave the front skid shock preload alone.
Also if the snow is wet/heavy you could go with a little wider gap (stock) transfer rod setting.
X2 on the wider skis and taller track, they will help a LOT!
BTW don't forget an avy beacon, probe, shovel and to take an avy training class.
Be safe and have fun
Bill
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
You can fit a 2" track in there, and I would highly recommend it. And depending on how much room you have in your trailer (width) get some wider skis. Minimum 6" wide.
If you're leaving your tunnel protectors in, you'll need to get a knotched 2" track.
If you're leaving your tunnel protectors in, you'll need to get a knotched 2" track.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
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- 2,136
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 XF9000, 2016 Viper XTX
zeke800 said:what does a guy have to do to your sled to go to the mountains. Revelstoke to be exact?? First time taking this sled to the mountains. Any help greatly appreciated
Load up sled on trailer, secure with tie downs. Take to nearest Yamaha dealer and trade in for the MTX with the PUSH Turbo, Voila ready for the mountains.
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