

RSVECTORFREAK
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- 2005 RS Vector ER
Well I had to pull the skid out to change the hyfax and I noticed half of my idler bearings were shot so I ordered the whole blue set for it. I decided I might as well re-grease all my fittings on the skid and the first fitting on the left transfer rod pushed out milky gray grease, not good. I moved over to the right transfer rod fitting and it actually pushed a stream of water out of it followed by milky grease. At this point I was getting a little PO'd after the wheels and now this. I next moved on to the 3 fittings in the middle of the lower skid. The rear fitting also pushed the same water out of it. I really wanted to work with this skid with new shocks and Nytro springs but at this point my decision is made. I am going to punish whats left of the stock proactive this year due to snow conditions and put an expert X under the chassis once and for all. I really love the machine but the rear skid has to go.
You won't regret the Expert X. Get the DTR Dynamic Transfer Regulator and have the shocks revalved...
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
RSVECTORFREAK said:Well I had to pull the skid out to change the hyfax and I noticed half of my idler bearings were shot so I ordered the whole blue set for it. I decided I might as well re-grease all my fittings on the skid and the first fitting on the left transfer rod pushed out milky gray grease, not good. I moved over to the right transfer rod fitting and it actually pushed a stream of water out of it followed by milky grease. At this point I was getting a little PO'd after the wheels and now this. I next moved on to the 3 fittings in the middle of the lower skid. The rear fitting also pushed the same water out of it. I really wanted to work with this skid with new shocks and Nytro springs but at this point my decision is made. I am going to punish whats left of the stock proactive this year due to snow conditions and put an expert X under the chassis once and for all. I really love the machine but the rear skid has to go.
Just asking....do you think having water come out and having milky grease come out is unusual?? You must judging on your comments. I don't think it's unusual at all. Don't know who did it and when your skid was greased, but even after a short time, this can happen. Use a GOOD quality grease too!! THis is no area to skimp. I've used Mobil 1 synthetic grease for some time now and are very pleased with it's resistance to breaking down. I actually pulled my skid out last night (to take off Nytro rear track shock for revalving) and and the greae was in good shape and the rods slid and turned freely.
Started cutting open the closed holes (with hot razor knife) and are trying to find a clip tool to fully clip the track. BTW - the 2 inner front idlers are shot...not the bearing...the wheels themselves.
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
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I typically grease after every ride and defintely after any trips be it a weekend or longer trip. I ALWAYS see some water and milky gray grease being forced out by new grease. It is totally normal and happened on all sleds I haved owned.
If you grease often the rear skid bushings will last longer. I inspected all bushings after 2300 miles and only the two on the upper most foward shaft showed any sign of slight wear, the others looked new.
If you grease often the rear skid bushings will last longer. I inspected all bushings after 2300 miles and only the two on the upper most foward shaft showed any sign of slight wear, the others looked new.


RSVECTORFREAK
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- 2005 RS Vector ER
I always use amsoil synthetic grease. Normally milky grease being pushed out wouldn't bother me that much but the streams of water followed but rusty color water and grease combo I do not like. Not to mention after looking at the green drab colored pivot arm in the front this morning the welds look like they were done by an amateur and are starting to crack away from the shaft. Look like that need tending to also now.I need to quit looking at it and just ride I guess.
garserio
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RSVECTORFREAK said:...Not to mention after looking at the green drab colored pivot arm in the front this morning the welds look like they were done by an amateur and are starting to crack away from the shaft. Look like that need tending to also now.I need to quit looking at it and just ride I guess.
DUDE, address that front arm immediately! My front W-Arm cracked off while riding and it destroyed my rear Ohlin shock. My cetner shock blew, W-Arm cracked off, Rear Ohlin got damaged BEYOND REPAIR. Total cost of the issue due to the broken W-Arm was over $750!
See my post in this section under My Broken W-Arm...


RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
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- 2005 RS Vector ER
Thanks for the advice I'm pulling the skid after the weekend to relpace all the wheels so I'll have the welds redone at the same time. Nice having to rebuild these $8,000 sleds with 2100 miles on them.
number1kyster
TY 4 Stroke God
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i will admit i pound the piss out of mine, i get snowcross air with it sometimes and it took the abuse. and a mogul on the trail broke it haha. oh well im dying to try out my ohlins rear shock im going on a trip this week should be good.
Shane
Expert
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The skid works great when set up right with the right shocks and springs. I TRUST ME! It is AWESOME! The grease issue....I have used AMSOIL SERIES 2000 RACING GREASE for years. I grease the sled EVERYTIME I ride. If gone for a weekend then each weekend i grease it. I have done this with every sled I have ever owned. Each and everytime water has ALWAYS come out. It is perfectly normal. Just keep up with good quality grease and HAVE A BLAST!
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