Downlow350
Veteran
I know there are a million threads on this, but ive really havent got a solid answer on the performance increase or the jetting issues...
I have an '03 rx1 with advanced timing, heavy hitters and the stage 3 ulmer helix. I used to have the k&n's on it with the 165 mains and the red springs. Im in Minnesota and between 1000 and 1400 ft. elevation. I didnt really see much bennifit from this. Ive spoken with Ted Jannetty and Ive read all of Sleddogs thread and am very interested in trying it, but dont want to waste anymore time if its not worth it.... Plese just give me your honest input. Thanks Guys!
I have an '03 rx1 with advanced timing, heavy hitters and the stage 3 ulmer helix. I used to have the k&n's on it with the 165 mains and the red springs. Im in Minnesota and between 1000 and 1400 ft. elevation. I didnt really see much bennifit from this. Ive spoken with Ted Jannetty and Ive read all of Sleddogs thread and am very interested in trying it, but dont want to waste anymore time if its not worth it.... Plese just give me your honest input. Thanks Guys!
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
the airbox mod works way better than the k and n filters because of the way the airbox attaches to the carbs, with 50mm tapered tubes. these are that length for a reason, it was not just a guess from yamaha, and the filters dont have them. they help airflow and velocity, and with the proper opening in the stock box and the proper jet size there is a very good gain in the midrange, as well as a few extra hp on the top end. the other advantage is that nothing freezes up and the sled is almost as quiet as stock. if the foam in the box freezes just remove it and run without it. sleddog has all the info posted on this mod, it works.
suprfst
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yep I went from ECP kit with rings to a modded airbox with exact same jetting as filters and lost nothing down low that I can tell and picked up some top end. I synced the carbs as well.
Well I may be a bit biased towards the the airbox mod and although I have no dyno runs to prove extra HP is made I believe there is enough there that you will notice. When Turk was still around and after I did the mod and gave him the numbers at WOT he told me I was leaving at least 10 to 15 HP on the table due to my stock clutching. I purchased the parts he thought I needed to get my clutching dialed in and installed them. The next time I took the sled out there was very noticeable gains. Had I not done the clutching to take advantage of the extra HP I would not have noticed the gains. That said you have to clutch and dial in to take advantage and notice the gains from this mod. Most everyone who has done this mod has been happy with the results.
Downlow350
Veteran
Thank you all very much for the responses! I think Im going to try it out this week. Any other tips or advice you guys may have? Thanks again!!
Pbadgley
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Yeah!!
Sled Dog, what is your clutching? I have done the air box mod and rejetted to 165's and stock springs. I'm at sea level in the high arctic so I figured this was a good combo. I did notice some gains but I would love to get full potential out of this mod. I also have a Bender Helix that came with a used secondary that I bought but have not installed it cause I'm not sure what the angle is and how it would affect the sleds performance.
Sled Dog, what is your clutching? I have done the air box mod and rejetted to 165's and stock springs. I'm at sea level in the high arctic so I figured this was a good combo. I did notice some gains but I would love to get full potential out of this mod. I also have a Bender Helix that came with a used secondary that I bought but have not installed it cause I'm not sure what the angle is and how it would affect the sleds performance.