Any Yamacharger Tips

[gas n go]

I started by stretching my '08 RTX (carry over deal) to a 136". Ran the sled last season for 2800 miles. Added a yamacharger, PCV, 23t gear and a sledwerx trail terminator clutch kit. Poor conditions have made it difficult to do any real testing as I am not running any studs. Studs are a consideration, I just keep reading mixed reviews with regards to top end gains or losses.
The snow we do have has no body and as a result is not packing so the best way to gain any traction is to run the flats of the groomed ditches and hook on the marsh grass. When I do hook it hits 11,000 drops to 10,600 momentarily then rapidly climbs to 10,900/11,000. If anyone has had any experience getting a trail terminator kit with quick adjust fly weights to run a steady pull from 10,200 to 10.800 with a comparable set up your input would be appreciated. Any suggestions on getting this RTX skid to transfer a little better would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

gng

 

[snowdust]

I have experience with that clutch kit, but it's going to be hard to help you with testing in those conditions. This kit engages low, so on hard pack you can still get a good holeshot without studs. If your conditions are not hard pack, I would expect exactly the RPM you are seeing. You can't get it to run low 10's without some traction. It sounds like you are spinning and then it grabs and then tops back out. Just not a good test to dial in clutching. Your finish RPM sounds good so it may be that the starting rpm is also good with some traction. You may not need to adjust anything.

To clarify... When you say you get traction.. Is that out of the hole or from a punch? Also - What secondary spring are you using and at what degree?

 

[gas n go]

Thanks for the input, it's reassuring to hear I may be close. Sledwerx in an attempt to make their kit appear proprietory does not publish the angles of the included Dalton helix on their site (I will pursue this today). I am running the stock secondary Attack/LTX spring and Sledwerx primary that came with the kit.

Thanks again,

gng

 

[snowdust]

I don't know the angle of their helix or rate of primary spring. It's a good kit though with plenty of adjust-ability. If you get better conditions you should be able to dial it in. I'd think with the charger you'd be running their heaviest weight included in the kit.

 

[jgustman]

My RTX sucked riding until revalving the shocks is done. I have the rear coupler turned all the way down for full transfer for the best ride and weight transfer and springs set to soft. Still doesn't pull the skis up much.

 

[Lonerider]

set up

I have a attak w a yamacharger, without stud you are overpowering your track. You need stud down the center of track a 4-2 pattern is a great. Trying to set it up as is, I would forget aiming for a hole shot. dial in your max rpm of 10,800 on a straightaway. To increase max rpm remove weight from tip,
If you have a softer secondary spring ( will increase max speed, by opening all the way) & a stiffer primary spring ( will make point of engagement a little higher, but not open to fast, giving it better mid range response) I would install them before you start adjusting weights. your weights will work fine. You will need to add weight to tips of primary when you install the stiffer primary spring. When adjusting weights & springs for trail riding, start with max rpm 1st. Also set helix angle of a stocker to 3/3 for smooth shifting.

I run ulmer pri. weights, heel clicker blk. pri spring, ulmer sec. helix set on 3/3 w/ ulmer Yellow spring.

 

[gas n go]

My RTX sucked riding until revalving the shocks is done. I have the rear coupler turned all the way down for full transfer for the best ride and weight transfer and springs set to soft. Still doesn't pull the skis up much.

I have yet to revalve and may not as stretching this skid has changed it's dynamics somewhat. I'm 220 and can't ride it with the springs set to soft without continuous bottoming. I too have the rear coupler turned all the way down but I am running with the springs on hard as medium is still a little soft.
It will lift the skis on the rare occasion that I actually gain traction. I was hoping that someone has removed the top coupler nut or performed another mod that has afforded more transfer.

Thanks for the reply,
gng

 

[gas n go]

Re: set up

I have a attak w a yamacharger, without stud you are overpowering your track. You need stud down the center of track a 4-2 pattern is a great. Trying to set it up as is, I would forget aiming for a hole shot. dial in your max rpm of 10,800 on a straightaway. To increase max rpm remove weight from tip,
If you have a softer secondary spring ( will increase max speed, by opening all the way) & a stiffer primary spring ( will make point of engagement a little higher, but not open to fast, giving it better mid range response) I would install them before you start adjusting weights. your weights will work fine. You will need to add weight to tips of primary when you install the stiffer primary spring. When adjusting weights & springs for trail riding, start with max rpm 1st. Also set helix angle of a stocker to 3/3 for smooth shifting.

I run ulmer pri. weights, heel clicker blk. pri spring, ulmer sec. helix set on 3/3 w/ ulmer Yellow spring.

This is great information and please rest assured it is greatly appreciated. I will likely have to pursue the studding and will attempt to get some more info with regards to the terminator kit specs from sledwerx. Although sledwerx is very accomadating, they inspire little confidence as they make a lot of references to Firecat clutching and have on every occasion forgot that I purchased and installed a premapped PCV from them. Great guys just spread a little thin, you have already provided more viable information. I will target the 10,800 high mark and work from there.

Many thanks,
gng

 

[jgustman]

I know what you mean about bottoming. I run soft if trails are fairly smooth, but if you get in whooped out trails it bottoms quite easily, yet is too firm in stutter bumps. The revalve helped, but still bottoms in the big stuff if you want a soft ride with this suspension. I noticed anything less than setting it on max transfer gave a very stiff ride, but decreased bottoming. Best ride is to go like H E L L on the rough stuff, "pussy footing it" just makes it rougher. I had Carver performance rebuild/revalve my skid with their two stage setup. I wanted the RTX setup in the sticky section here on the forum, but they felt theirs was better. I don't know... I miss my '04 rev xp suspension...