Attak darting

[KubotaOne]

I suffered from severe darting with my new Attak. First, I installed 6" Woody's Dually's, which helped considerably. This weekend I shimmed my factory skis. Big difference. Very little darting, steering actually seems easier. Why in the world would Yamaha not address this darting issue from the beginning is beyond me. How can shimming hurt performance? So why not change the rubber block from the factory?

Don't get me wrong. I'm very happy with the Attak. No idler wheels torn up, my hand warmers are working ok for me, and I'm not experiencing any bottoming out (i'm 165lbs). It sinks a little in deep powder, perhaps more than what I expected, but I wasn't expecting "mountain" climbing performance. On rough trails yesterday, it was incredible. Smooth instant power, hooks up awesome without studs, and handled 2' nasty's with ease.

Overall, I'm very pleased so far.

 

[Slush Monster]

I kind of noticed some darting also with my Attak. I am looking at putting the ski-doo pilot 6.9s on my sLed. Got a chance to check them out on my brothers summit and they seem like great skis. Now with the rider forward and less weight on the track, yamaha will need to come out with something new and better for skis next year to solve this.

 

[hook2153]

Yes!

I suffered from severe darting with my new Attak.

I could not agree with you more.

 

[Silverbullet]

Did you check the toe out ? The factory allows up to 5/8 inch which will cause your sled to dart. Make sure you are at a 1/4 or less.

 

[MXD]

Did you check the toe out ? The factory allows up to 5/8 inch which will cause your sled to dart. Make sure you are at a 1/4 or less.

What is the best way to check this?

 

[vice108]

I'm glad you tried the shims

 

[NY_Nytro]

Did you check the toe out ? The factory allows up to 5/8 inch which will cause your sled to dart. Make sure you are at a 1/4 or less.

What is the best way to check this?

Put a light bungee cord from ski tip to ski tip, with just enough pull to tighten up any slop. Then I measure from ski to ski on the front most carbide stud and the rear most carbide stud. They should be the same or upto 1/4" more on the front.

 

[King44]

I agree with Silverbullet. Check your toe-out first. Could save you hundreds of dollars(buying skiis) with just a simple adjustment.

 

[welterracer]

Toe out is very important... My Warrior was out by 1 inch last year..

 

[KubotaOne]

I did check toe-out first. I put a straight edge along side the skis and measured. With the bungee on the front, I was within an 1/8" of being dead even. Next, I bungeed the back of the skis and measured, I had close to an inch toe-out.

The toe-out ratio depends on where you take your measurement from. If you measure off the carbide studs, the smaller the measurement. If you measure from the ends of the skis (which is what I did) the bigger the measurement. I would assume the 1" toe-out I measured would be close to 5/8" if measured from the carbide studs. Does this make sense? So where am I supposed to measure from?

 

[xcsp]

Where to measure from?

From what I recall(don't have my manual handy at the moment), that Yamaha says to measure at the tip of the ski loop and at the rear of the ski, is that correct?

 

[SledFreak]

Measure off the carbide runner, that's what digs into the snow.

 

[KubotaOne]

Re: Where to measure from?

From what I recall(don't have my manual handy at the moment), that Yamaha says to measure at the tip of the ski loop and at the rear of the ski, is that correct?

That's what my manual says.

 

[Slush Monster]

The way I set mine up is ... Light bungee cord on front to take up slack. 1/4 inch toe out from tip to tip. Still darts some. Tried 1/8+ on each side of this setting. Darting was worse with more toe in, slightly better with more toe out but heavy steering feel. Seems best at 1/4 toe out. More tham likely going to put on the pilot 6.9s for better floatation and no darting without increasing steering effort.