Apex18
Expert
Ok, i'm a ski-doo guy and i really want an apex. I found an add on the interent about 5 minutes ago. Called the guy but he is not home. I was manly interested in an RTX but i have not found any yet and this is a pretty good deal. So i need all the help i can get. It is a 2--6 Apex GT with 1100 miles on it. I know the 06's had hand and thumbwarmer issues and that an update was done on them. So i will ask if he updated to the 07 bars. And i already know about some having a leaky chaincase, but thats easy to fix if necessary. If it does have aleaky chaincase i just buy a new chaincase cover right?? What i really want to know is if there is any other problems with this sled???
I have read posts about them having a bad EC rear shock, did this happen on every Apex GT, is it common?? Is their an update for this shock? Does the shock have to be bad/leaking/blown in order to get the free update??
Anything you can think of please tell me. I'm only 19 and don't want to buy a bad sled thats broken or has many problems. Please help. Thanks ALOT Jordan. I'm so pumped i really want this yammy.
I have read posts about them having a bad EC rear shock, did this happen on every Apex GT, is it common?? Is their an update for this shock? Does the shock have to be bad/leaking/blown in order to get the free update??
Anything you can think of please tell me. I'm only 19 and don't want to buy a bad sled thats broken or has many problems. Please help. Thanks ALOT Jordan. I'm so pumped i really want this yammy.
schmeg
Expert
1. Send the rear EC shock out to pioneer performance for their revalve 89.00 and opt for the fatboy spring if you weigh more than 190 or ride rough trails. X-tra wheels aren't a bad idea either.
2. Put on Doo or Polaris idler wheels if the stock ones are shot. They work better and help hyfax life.
3. Use SLP wear pads 24.00 on the track. It will roll better and cut down on hyfax wear.
4. Get Bergstrom carbides with ski savers if you want to use the stock ski's, The sled will dart if you don't. otherwise go with aftermarket ski's. The Bergs work fine for me.
5. Some chaincases were a problem, the case vents thru the dipstick, and under some conditions it wouldn't vent pressure well and would leak thru the seal until all the fluid ran dry then the chain would explode. Cut a tiny slit between the vent cutouts on the rubber at the top of the dipstick, and check the oil level regularly and it shouldn't bother, or buy an 07 chaincase cover if you wish that extra protection.
6. Install an 07 snowflap 30.00 so you won't back overr the 06 one and fold up the tunnel like a very few did. Mine still has the 06 flap. I just get off the sled while backing.
7. 07 bar update had mixed results. Stay tuned. Or use the unsolicited mod of using an 07 sublead to wire 06 bars in parellel and have toasty hands. Just watch the amount of demand you put on the warmers. No more than half is safe. I've logged more than 1100 miles on the mod. Works great.
These items wioll make the sled damn reliable and will ride well to boot. The rear shock was an issue without a revalve. Don't rely on Yammi to fix it right. Bruce at pioneer will do you well and the sled behaves quite well after. Like any other sled, it still requires TLC, but once dialed it will make you a happy owner. Just take care of the little things first.
2. Put on Doo or Polaris idler wheels if the stock ones are shot. They work better and help hyfax life.
3. Use SLP wear pads 24.00 on the track. It will roll better and cut down on hyfax wear.
4. Get Bergstrom carbides with ski savers if you want to use the stock ski's, The sled will dart if you don't. otherwise go with aftermarket ski's. The Bergs work fine for me.
5. Some chaincases were a problem, the case vents thru the dipstick, and under some conditions it wouldn't vent pressure well and would leak thru the seal until all the fluid ran dry then the chain would explode. Cut a tiny slit between the vent cutouts on the rubber at the top of the dipstick, and check the oil level regularly and it shouldn't bother, or buy an 07 chaincase cover if you wish that extra protection.
6. Install an 07 snowflap 30.00 so you won't back overr the 06 one and fold up the tunnel like a very few did. Mine still has the 06 flap. I just get off the sled while backing.
7. 07 bar update had mixed results. Stay tuned. Or use the unsolicited mod of using an 07 sublead to wire 06 bars in parellel and have toasty hands. Just watch the amount of demand you put on the warmers. No more than half is safe. I've logged more than 1100 miles on the mod. Works great.
These items wioll make the sled damn reliable and will ride well to boot. The rear shock was an issue without a revalve. Don't rely on Yammi to fix it right. Bruce at pioneer will do you well and the sled behaves quite well after. Like any other sled, it still requires TLC, but once dialed it will make you a happy owner. Just take care of the little things first.
kurtz
Veteran
buy mine. what is your deal? Mine is wset to work ask around here, one of the strongest stocker. I will hook you up PM me.
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
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First, I love my GT. I have now been 118 on GPS.
Chaincase - Failures have mostly been due to prolonged wide open running. I believe dealers have been advised to change to the 07 cover if a leak is spotted. The 07 cover has slightly more surface area for the gasket to seal more reliably. Some dealers will change the cover proactively.
EC Ohlins - There is a bulletin to re-route the control wire to minimize the chances of the wire breaking. In my first season the wire did not break. This season, after the wire had been re-routed it broke due to heavy ice build up while in Quebec. I only weigh 165 but had mine revalved and had an internal seal failure also while in Quebec. IMO the EC Ohlins is the ONE thing on the sled that I worry about. I hope to not have to have the shock repaired every season.
Handwarmers - I have the 07 update on my 06 GT. I rode in weather down to -40C in Quebec and my grips work, BUT the grip voltage relies on steady RPMs. As long as your riding they'll get hot but will cool off fast when the RPMs get low.
Handling - I have not touched the limiter strap and actually have no idea where its set. The manner in which I received my sled produced a lot of inside ski lift when cornering. Lifting the weight off the front shocks you want loosen the springs to bring the A-Arms as close to paralllel to the ground until the ski lift is at a level that you like. A little adjustment goes a long way. Notice various members avatars and you'll see guys sleds set up thoughout the spectrum of parallel to the ground on some and plenty of rake on others. I am gonna loosen my springs just a little more before the last ride. Once you set it up right it will ride like its on rails. My transfer rod is set exactly in the middle. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE NUT TIGHT on the transfer rod.
Skis - After reading about changing to aftermarket skis for more than a year I put USI VX301 skis with USI ski savers and shaper bars. I think for me the sled handled better with the stock skis and Woodys Doolys carbides. NO darting and marginal push. The USI skis turn like a Mack Truck without any real offsetting benefit that I noticed. I am going back to the stock skis and going to try an 8" carbide on one side and a Dooly on the other.
Plugs - Supposedly changing to a colder plug gave the sled a cheap 2-3 HP. I couldn't tell but I never got near 118 the first year, although I do think that was conditions more than the plugs.
Coolant mix - Many if not all Apexes were delivered with a 100% anti-freeze coolant. Most overheating can be eliminated by diluting the coolant to a 60/40 mix with distilled water. Many guys have installed a rear heat exchanger but I don't think its needed if the coolan mix is right. A side benefit of the rear exchanger is supposedly less ice build up, but I rode with a TY member in QC who has a rear heat exchanger and we had about the same amount of ice buildup. I also rode about 300 miles 2 weekends ago in 40-55F with no cooling issues even thought I expected to see the light come on at any moment.
For next season I AM going to get Ulmers Stealth Airbox mod which also allegedly gives a couple HP.
Enjoy the sled AND RIDE SAFE!
Chaincase - Failures have mostly been due to prolonged wide open running. I believe dealers have been advised to change to the 07 cover if a leak is spotted. The 07 cover has slightly more surface area for the gasket to seal more reliably. Some dealers will change the cover proactively.
EC Ohlins - There is a bulletin to re-route the control wire to minimize the chances of the wire breaking. In my first season the wire did not break. This season, after the wire had been re-routed it broke due to heavy ice build up while in Quebec. I only weigh 165 but had mine revalved and had an internal seal failure also while in Quebec. IMO the EC Ohlins is the ONE thing on the sled that I worry about. I hope to not have to have the shock repaired every season.
Handwarmers - I have the 07 update on my 06 GT. I rode in weather down to -40C in Quebec and my grips work, BUT the grip voltage relies on steady RPMs. As long as your riding they'll get hot but will cool off fast when the RPMs get low.
Handling - I have not touched the limiter strap and actually have no idea where its set. The manner in which I received my sled produced a lot of inside ski lift when cornering. Lifting the weight off the front shocks you want loosen the springs to bring the A-Arms as close to paralllel to the ground until the ski lift is at a level that you like. A little adjustment goes a long way. Notice various members avatars and you'll see guys sleds set up thoughout the spectrum of parallel to the ground on some and plenty of rake on others. I am gonna loosen my springs just a little more before the last ride. Once you set it up right it will ride like its on rails. My transfer rod is set exactly in the middle. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE NUT TIGHT on the transfer rod.
Skis - After reading about changing to aftermarket skis for more than a year I put USI VX301 skis with USI ski savers and shaper bars. I think for me the sled handled better with the stock skis and Woodys Doolys carbides. NO darting and marginal push. The USI skis turn like a Mack Truck without any real offsetting benefit that I noticed. I am going back to the stock skis and going to try an 8" carbide on one side and a Dooly on the other.
Plugs - Supposedly changing to a colder plug gave the sled a cheap 2-3 HP. I couldn't tell but I never got near 118 the first year, although I do think that was conditions more than the plugs.
Coolant mix - Many if not all Apexes were delivered with a 100% anti-freeze coolant. Most overheating can be eliminated by diluting the coolant to a 60/40 mix with distilled water. Many guys have installed a rear heat exchanger but I don't think its needed if the coolan mix is right. A side benefit of the rear exchanger is supposedly less ice build up, but I rode with a TY member in QC who has a rear heat exchanger and we had about the same amount of ice buildup. I also rode about 300 miles 2 weekends ago in 40-55F with no cooling issues even thought I expected to see the light come on at any moment.
For next season I AM going to get Ulmers Stealth Airbox mod which also allegedly gives a couple HP.
Enjoy the sled AND RIDE SAFE!
Apex18
Expert
Thanks for all the info guys. I called the guy and it had alot more milege then was listed. It also came with no cover and he trailed it alot in an open trailer so it probably is a mess and has salt all over it, even he said it had to be cleaned up. But it is still a good deal but not enough to buy it as what i really want is an 2006 RTX. So i'm still looking for an apex. I think I'm just going to buy one this fall as thats when most people list them. Thanks for all the info though. I still might get a GT but i'm going to wait till this fall so i don't have to store it all summer and not even be able to test ride it. Thanks again, i love this site. Jord
sinjin
Expert
Hey Jordan, good to see you are going to move to Yamaha. I hope riding my sled helped your decision. I will keep my eyes open down here but there has been quite a few RTX listed on here lately
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=40026
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=40026
