Driveshaft toast, my fix

probably cost too much to fix it right.

i picture a shoulder on the shaft for the bearing to go up against. then a splined collar to go against it for the brake rotor to go onto and float on. then a nut or bolt in the end of the shaft to hold side pressure on the bearing inner race against the shoulder on the shaft. then just let the rotor float on the splined collar using the caliper to keep it in place.
 
How many years or decades did the sled manufacturers use an eccentric locking bearing to lock the two together? It's not rocket science. The current design is just plain very poor and functionally ineffective. It doesn't take a genius to see the flaws in the design.
Or, what's wrong with maybe a Skwezloc design (see pic)?
Or, what's wrong with sizing the shaft correctly so there is an interference fit?
LOTS of solutions but yet the 2021s still are same old same old p%$# poor design. I just don't get it. Are they trying to keep this flaw in the design just so their dealers can have some repair business?!
shopping
 
Bottom line I think it's the least expensive way for them to produce it and they won't change it till the chassis is redesigned and hopefully a new chain case comes with it. I don't think with a new properly greased bearing the inner race will move back and forth enough to be a problem with this fix. There would need to be a lot of drag in the bearing for it to hammer the pin hard enough to break it off. If the bearing is that bad you'll probably have trouble with the BOP fix too.That being said it will still require seasonal inspection and maintenance......... jus like everything else on this chassis. Never spent as much time on seasonal maintenance on a sled as I do on this one. If the dam thing didn't handle so good and have that 4 stroke Yamah engine it would be gone!
 
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