4strokelover87
Lifetime Member
I am going to stud my '04 warrior, stock track. Has anyone tried the Sno-stuff Diamond or Sno-stuff ultra-lite backers from Shadetree? I was wondering how they hold up? I want to try to get something that will support the 1.325" studs well.
Thanks for any input!!!!
Thanks for any input!!!!
woodchk454
Extreme
No problems with the Ultra Lites after 3500 mi with 1.1875 woodys.
RaWarrior
Extreme
I'd skip the studs, they end up causing more problems than benefits.
Can't tell you how many times I've seen motors cooked because a stud got tossed through the heat exchanger, all the coolant leaked out, and the light won't come on because there's no liquid on the sender. While a RX has the heat exchangers on the floorboards, you still have the connector pipe under there. I should post some pics of the nasty looking heat exchangers and punctured ones I have lying around, as well as the fried top ends.
Just last weekend my buddy's F6 threw a stud going across a lake at an easy cruise, like 50 or so. Poked a hole right in the exchanger, it pissed all the coolant, and the motor fried. It got so hot you had to clog up the air intake to kill it, the plug wires were off and it was still running. Studs only had like 600 miles on them, and upon inspection like 4 other studs were missing, along with 4 nice punctures in the tunnel.
Drilling holes for studs cuts cords in the track, it gets weaker and stretches, and the studs fly out.
The only place they help is on icy corners, and then you shouldn't be going fast enough to make the #*$&@ end slide out anyway. Relying on studs for safety is foolhardy. And after a few hundred miles they round off anyway and don't even help on ice.
The iceripper track is a great alternative if you need studs, but a 2" paddle track will take you absolutely anywhere you want to go.
I've found the stock RipSaw to be a great track in 136", does just fine in the fluffy stuff for me.
Can't tell you how many times I've seen motors cooked because a stud got tossed through the heat exchanger, all the coolant leaked out, and the light won't come on because there's no liquid on the sender. While a RX has the heat exchangers on the floorboards, you still have the connector pipe under there. I should post some pics of the nasty looking heat exchangers and punctured ones I have lying around, as well as the fried top ends.
Just last weekend my buddy's F6 threw a stud going across a lake at an easy cruise, like 50 or so. Poked a hole right in the exchanger, it pissed all the coolant, and the motor fried. It got so hot you had to clog up the air intake to kill it, the plug wires were off and it was still running. Studs only had like 600 miles on them, and upon inspection like 4 other studs were missing, along with 4 nice punctures in the tunnel.
Drilling holes for studs cuts cords in the track, it gets weaker and stretches, and the studs fly out.
The only place they help is on icy corners, and then you shouldn't be going fast enough to make the #*$&@ end slide out anyway. Relying on studs for safety is foolhardy. And after a few hundred miles they round off anyway and don't even help on ice.
The iceripper track is a great alternative if you need studs, but a 2" paddle track will take you absolutely anywhere you want to go.
I've found the stock RipSaw to be a great track in 136", does just fine in the fluffy stuff for me.