Thatspec
Extreme
This has plagued my RX1M since I got it. Last year went through three belts. Have never blown an OEM belt though and keep it on the cover as a reserve. Installed one of the Toocool air vents on the clutch side but I'm still getting too hot to touch for more than a second. Clutching was done by Hartman and RPMs are about perfect (10200-10600 climbing). Gearing 20-40.
I probably only weigh 215 with my pack on. I'm stumped. Starting to loose the first kevlar strands from the current Ultimax 3 I'm using. Just a matter of time before she starts shedding chunks. One nice thing about the Ultimax 3, it gives you some warning before getting all wound up in your secondary.
Anything else I should be looking at?
I probably only weigh 215 with my pack on. I'm stumped. Starting to loose the first kevlar strands from the current Ultimax 3 I'm using. Just a matter of time before she starts shedding chunks. One nice thing about the Ultimax 3, it gives you some warning before getting all wound up in your secondary.
Anything else I should be looking at?
treewhacker
Expert
One thing you can do is drop your top sprocket to 19. It will cool your clutch off considerably with the lower gearing. Also, check your allignment and engine torque limiters very closely.
Thatspec
Extreme
Thanks Treewhacker,
I considered the 19 but would need a new chain, may still do it. Allignment is good but what are the torque limiters?
I get slight squealling when hot with an Ultimax 3 belt as if its a hair too short. OEM belts run great.
Thanks, Mark
I considered the 19 but would need a new chain, may still do it. Allignment is good but what are the torque limiters?
I get slight squealling when hot with an Ultimax 3 belt as if its a hair too short. OEM belts run great.
Thanks, Mark
Don't forget your setup details, and the conditions you're riding in, and the fact that you have a M7 skid under it now with a 162x16x2.3x2.52 track. Just so nobody assumes you're talking "stock" RX1M here.
All belts when you buy them new will have a trace of drum release from the manufacturing process (slick stuff like silicone spray). This drum release will transfer to the clutch faces if not thoroughly washed off. To remedy this problem the clutch sheaves and belt should be scrubbed thoroughly with as hot as you can stand soapy water (several times if necessary) to eliminate the drum release (409 works good for me). It is also recommended by the manufacturer that the belt be properly "broke-in" using continuously varied throttle positions without any excessively high speeds or excessively high loads. Just use common sense. (15-miles or so seems to work for me)
Center to Center 268.5mm plus or minus 1mm
Offset 15mm plus or minus 1mm
Secondary belt height 1.5mm above edge to 0.5mm below edge (belt should not squeal)
Drive clutch belt side clearance should be .010" to a maximum of .020" (belt should not squeal) side clearance is adjusted by removing the spider (need a grunt tool) and adding or subtracting shims as needed. (or buy an aftermarket external adjuster like I did) Check clearance with a feeler gauge. Excessive side clearance can cause higher than factory recommended clutch engagement and will pop the outboard cord on the belt. Improper clutch alignment and broken or worn motor mounts will have the same symptoms also popping the cords and/or delaminating the belt. I’ve found belt lengths and widths that vary enough to cause problems so setup and adjustment is very important.
When making multiple wide-open-throttle, slow ground speed, passes in the steep-n-deep the clutches will create heat faster than they can dissipate heat and it is easily possible to exceed the belts temperature limits causing the same type of cord failures or catastrophic failure. (exploding belt takes out the clutches and other expensive parts) Lower gearing like 19/42 (find some used gears here or on SnoWest and you can use your existing 70L chain) would help a bunch if steep-n-deep is what you do the most of and you'd still be able to mathematically pull 85+mph at 10,600rpm.
My belt (138-4432 Ultimax3) and clutches normally run 95-100*F (when not being flogged on the hill)
All belts when you buy them new will have a trace of drum release from the manufacturing process (slick stuff like silicone spray). This drum release will transfer to the clutch faces if not thoroughly washed off. To remedy this problem the clutch sheaves and belt should be scrubbed thoroughly with as hot as you can stand soapy water (several times if necessary) to eliminate the drum release (409 works good for me). It is also recommended by the manufacturer that the belt be properly "broke-in" using continuously varied throttle positions without any excessively high speeds or excessively high loads. Just use common sense. (15-miles or so seems to work for me)
Center to Center 268.5mm plus or minus 1mm
Offset 15mm plus or minus 1mm
Secondary belt height 1.5mm above edge to 0.5mm below edge (belt should not squeal)
Drive clutch belt side clearance should be .010" to a maximum of .020" (belt should not squeal) side clearance is adjusted by removing the spider (need a grunt tool) and adding or subtracting shims as needed. (or buy an aftermarket external adjuster like I did) Check clearance with a feeler gauge. Excessive side clearance can cause higher than factory recommended clutch engagement and will pop the outboard cord on the belt. Improper clutch alignment and broken or worn motor mounts will have the same symptoms also popping the cords and/or delaminating the belt. I’ve found belt lengths and widths that vary enough to cause problems so setup and adjustment is very important.
When making multiple wide-open-throttle, slow ground speed, passes in the steep-n-deep the clutches will create heat faster than they can dissipate heat and it is easily possible to exceed the belts temperature limits causing the same type of cord failures or catastrophic failure. (exploding belt takes out the clutches and other expensive parts) Lower gearing like 19/42 (find some used gears here or on SnoWest and you can use your existing 70L chain) would help a bunch if steep-n-deep is what you do the most of and you'd still be able to mathematically pull 85+mph at 10,600rpm.
My belt (138-4432 Ultimax3) and clutches normally run 95-100*F (when not being flogged on the hill)
treewhacker
Expert
Thatspec said:
Engine Torque Limiters are straps (Links) attached between engine and chassis to prevent engine from torquing sideways when you put a load on it.
What will happen is the drive clutch (Engine) and the driven (Chassis) clutches will come out of allignment with each other under heavy loads and that will kill your belt and create a lot of heat.
I never replaced the belt on my 03 RX1 turbo, the belt looked like new the day I sold it.
Thatspec
Extreme
Good point Hammer,
I have cost myself a lot of time and money not reading through an entire thread to get all the info (bought and attempted to install the wrong oil filter once, pita). Greatly appreciate all the specs you posted! My clutch does not seem to be getting any hotter with the longer track than it did stock which is good. Interestingly my RPMs have stayed the same, thought the extra 10#s of track might slow things down a bit. Forgot to mention I have 15mm rollers as opposed to 14.5's. I have a number of factors adding up to increased heat (rollers, gearing, conditions), I'm considering putting some holes in the clutch top cover as the side vent I installed is not enough. Next step will likely be the 19 tooth and 68L chain. Tables show I should be using a 68 even with the 20/40 I have but thats what it came with. The 42 is kind of a spendy gear even offset by not needing a chain (plus may be incompatable with reverse?). I could probably ride trails all day with this setup and never get too hot (but I'd rather not waste the sled on that)
I may need to reshim the secondary so belt sits a hair lower too. My OEM belt got down to minimum specs so switching back and forth becomes a hassle.
Treewhacker, I will look at service manual about the straps. This rig only has 2700 miles on it (but has probably only physically moved 1000 if you know what I mean). Would hope something like that would go a lot longer before needing adjustment.
BTW Hammer, what aftermarket adjuster are you using?
Thanks guys, Mark
I have cost myself a lot of time and money not reading through an entire thread to get all the info (bought and attempted to install the wrong oil filter once, pita). Greatly appreciate all the specs you posted! My clutch does not seem to be getting any hotter with the longer track than it did stock which is good. Interestingly my RPMs have stayed the same, thought the extra 10#s of track might slow things down a bit. Forgot to mention I have 15mm rollers as opposed to 14.5's. I have a number of factors adding up to increased heat (rollers, gearing, conditions), I'm considering putting some holes in the clutch top cover as the side vent I installed is not enough. Next step will likely be the 19 tooth and 68L chain. Tables show I should be using a 68 even with the 20/40 I have but thats what it came with. The 42 is kind of a spendy gear even offset by not needing a chain (plus may be incompatable with reverse?). I could probably ride trails all day with this setup and never get too hot (but I'd rather not waste the sled on that)
I may need to reshim the secondary so belt sits a hair lower too. My OEM belt got down to minimum specs so switching back and forth becomes a hassle.
Treewhacker, I will look at service manual about the straps. This rig only has 2700 miles on it (but has probably only physically moved 1000 if you know what I mean). Would hope something like that would go a lot longer before needing adjustment.
BTW Hammer, what aftermarket adjuster are you using?
Thanks guys, Mark
GUKROKIT
Expert
MPI carries them if you want a new one and yes it is possible to use one with reverse. I've never had reverse but there are guys with reverse using the 42.
http://www.hitechperformance.com/www/hitechperformance/911response.asp
I run the HI-TECH cover (they have a Yamaha cover also) with external adjuster. The TEAM secondary I'm running is also externally adjustable. I clean-inspect-adjust my belt and clutches every 50 to 100-miles depending on the loads I have put on them during those miles. Thought I saw a picture on this forum somewhere of a really nice looking external adjuster for the Yamaha primary, thought is was Lightning-Pro or someone like that, there are also aftermarket external adjusters for the Yamaha secondary. Just can't think of which companies because I haven't run Yamaha belts & clutches since my 1997 Mountain Max.
