ESKIMO
Extreme
Is it pretty well straight forward following instructions? or is there any tips for easier installation?
Snomad
Extreme
I didn't do the track switch myself but I did do the tunnel extension. The only part of the instructions that were vague was on how to trim the bumper/running board cover. It has to be trimmed quite a bit to cross the flat part of the new tunnel extension. I wound up getting frustrated and cutting it in half and only using the end pieces. They say to take your time and they weren't kidding. A picture of a trimmed one would have been nice so you knew where you were headed with it. If you want it right it stays as one piece and you have to go slow. The rest of the tunnel extension instructions are OK.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
You do NOT leave it in one piece.
Once the extension is on, just hold the plastic up to it and its OBVIOUS how you have to trim it. Just use a hacksaw and make sure your line is straight.
Also, the instructions for the rest of it are VAGUE, just add a whole bunch of rivets.
AND, install a rear heat exchanger BEFORE you put on the extension (makes it a helovalot easier, if you have fat fingers, adding the rear heat exchanger later will be IMPOSSIBLE), then once the extension is in place, you just add a drop bracket to support the back of the heat exchanger.
Once the extension is on, just hold the plastic up to it and its OBVIOUS how you have to trim it. Just use a hacksaw and make sure your line is straight.
Also, the instructions for the rest of it are VAGUE, just add a whole bunch of rivets.
AND, install a rear heat exchanger BEFORE you put on the extension (makes it a helovalot easier, if you have fat fingers, adding the rear heat exchanger later will be IMPOSSIBLE), then once the extension is in place, you just add a drop bracket to support the back of the heat exchanger.
BlueRx
Extreme
Straight forward install. I only had a problem with alignment of the mounting holes on the rear drop down bracket. Tom said he would put measurements on the instructions to make sure you are mounted in the right place. The plastic piece is a pain so take your time, mine is still one piece.
My plastic moulding is also in one piece, it takes some time to fit it correctly, but looks much nicer than if cut apart.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
The top of the tunnel is ABOVE the top of the plastic. You putting it THROUGH??
The top of the tunnel is not above the plastic moulding. There remains a 1" strip of plastic all across the top of the tunnel tying the moulding together, and securing the tail light moulding.
ESKIMO
Extreme
Thanks guys, I appreciate your help. I'll make sure to keep the plastic in one piece. I am wondering if I need a rear heat exchanger? I should be okay without one right?
Eskimo
Eskimo
Even with the turbo, i don't have one. But in situations where there is no snow getting to the exchangers it will run a little hot. Normally it runs 165deg f, plowed road running, 180deg f I have seen 200 deg but rarely. The light comes on at about 215deg.
I may install a small exchanger I have here, if I make the time, but I don't feel it is necessary.
I may install a small exchanger I have here, if I make the time, but I don't feel it is necessary.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
POWERHAULIC said:
Then yours has to be different than mine because the tail-light moulding is being held up about 1/8" by the tunnel extension.
Gilbey
Expert
Lb,
Actually you don't need to cut it in half. I used an air grinder with a cut off wheel, and left a small strip at the top of it maybe 1/8" thick to hold the pieces firm. I then used a heating torch to better contour the plastic around the end of the extension.
Biggest pain of installing the kit for me was pulling off the whole chain case. Next biggest was probably the pulling of the skid on and off. Wasn't too bad of a job. I was able to do it and I am definately not the most mechanically inclined person.
Actually you don't need to cut it in half. I used an air grinder with a cut off wheel, and left a small strip at the top of it maybe 1/8" thick to hold the pieces firm. I then used a heating torch to better contour the plastic around the end of the extension.
Biggest pain of installing the kit for me was pulling off the whole chain case. Next biggest was probably the pulling of the skid on and off. Wasn't too bad of a job. I was able to do it and I am definately not the most mechanically inclined person.
wizard
Pro
could any of you post some close-up pictures of the plastic and how it fits around/ over the extension? I'll be finishing up my extension install sunday, pictures would help out a lot.
thanks,
scott
thanks,
scott
Snomad
Extreme
LB, I'd sure like to see a pic of yours. I don't know how the plastic could have gone under the tunnel extension on mine. I basically don't have the long thin strip that crosses the extension and it really isn't missed.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I don't know when I will be back to my sled (snow's gone, no pressing need to go there until its boat time), but when I do, I'll take a pic. That plastic is definitely not missed here either.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
My Hartman kit had zilch for instructions, only thing I had to adjust was the new bumper as initially it ended 1" from the rubber ends on running board. Looked bad so I re-adjusted so ends of bumper were hidden under black rubber/plastic on boards.
Jim
Jim
