New!- Just got my first Yamaha few questions...

[Ryanmlt1]

Hi All, my name is Ryan. I have been lurking here for awhile and after purchasing a 2006 Yamaha Apex Attak clean with (4900mi paid $4600). I have decided to join this valuable forum. I purchased the sled after riding my dads brand new Venture GT all last season. I was so Impressed with the instant torque and engine braking I had to get one for my self. Actually got the same color Candy Red. I hope we don't look nerdy together...

So I did a quick once over of the machine. Noticed a few things I wanted to ask about.

1. I put the sled on a stand and revved her up good. She wasn't really warm but the light was off and she burped a little when I was quick on the throttle and hesitated normal? I don't know how long she has been sitting either but I imagine all summer.

2. When the sled was on the stand and I let off the throttle the track stopped spinning almost immediately. Is this due to the track being tight or the engine braking... Or could I have a bad drive shaft bearing.

I plan on taking her to MOM's in Manchester NH for oil change tune up and a good look through. Anyone use them?? I would work on her myself but I don't currently have a garage to use. So I don't want to do Oil change etc. outside its getting cold...

I look forward to any advice and input! Thanks guys Ryan

 

[misterbrutus03]

Should have let the engine warm up properly first, but also may just need some fresh gas and be driven as its been sitting of course. Track stopping immediately
after let off is due to engine braking... Wouldn't hurt to change out the drive bearings though.

 

[Grimm]

Definitely re-grease the drive line bearings behind the secondary...the jackshaft one and the really important one, the driveshaft. Go through everything on the sled to familiarize and check things like worn bushings, fluid levels, worn out parts, etc.

Use the search function and the FAQ sections on the this website...it's very useful to a Yamaha newbie.

And welcome to TY.

 

[Caveman]

MOM'S in Manchester has the best Yamaha mechanics in New England and will find everything that needs some attention. I buy from a different dealer but service with them. Others from out of state bring their sleds there and not just because there's no sales tax.

 

[APEX 06]

The motor needs to be run good and hard the first ride or two they seem to run hard. Just check all the bearings and repack them wash it and check the coolent to make sure its 50/50.

 

[yooper1]

I have had the track tighten up over the summer before, like the heat and humidity of the summer did something.

 

[APEX 06]

There is a lot less track spending then a 2 storke.

 

[Blue Dave]

Welcome to Yamaha and to the TY site! You are going to love the sled and this website. There is so much useful information and helpful people here.

Obviously your Attak is different than my Apex but my Apex will spin the track slightly at idle when up on a stand. I run my track on the loose side and recently replaced all of the bearings in my driveline (jackshaft & driveshaft).

I wouldn't be too concerned about the slight hesitation until after running a fresh tank of gas through the sled which should clear things up.

 

[yamahahaapex]

Hi All, my name is Ryan. I have been lurking here for awhile and after purchasing a 2006 Yamaha Apex Attak clean with (4900mi paid $4600). I have decided to join this valuable forum. I purchased the sled after riding my dads brand new Venture GT all last season. I was so Impressed with the instant torque and engine braking I had to get one for my self. Actually got the same color Candy Red. I hope we don't look nerdy together...

So I did a quick once over of the machine. Noticed a few things I wanted to ask about.

1. I put the sled on a stand and revved her up good. She wasn't really warm but the light was off and she burped a little when I was quick on the throttle and hesitated normal? I don't know how long she has been sitting either but I imagine all summer.

2. When the sled was on the stand and I let off the throttle the track stopped spinning almost immediately. Is this due to the track being tight or the engine braking... Or could I have a bad drive shaft bearing.

I plan on taking her to MOM's in Manchester NH for oil change tune up and a good look through. Anyone use them?? I would work on her myself but I don't currently have a garage to use. So I don't want to do Oil change etc. outside its getting cold...

I look forward to any advice and input! Thanks guys Ryan

I would check to make sure your e-brake is not on if its stopping immediately in the air since the sleds ive owned have rolled on for a bit. Reason why i know is one time i had the brake on working on the clutch and forgot to shut it off before I gave it some gas in the air. No damage but you could tell something was different

 

[apex55]

[/quote]
I would check to make sure your e-brake is not on if its stopping immediately in the air since the sleds ive owned have rolled on for a bit. Reason why i know is one time i had the brake on working on the clutch and forgot to shut it off before I gave it some gas in the air. No damage but you could tell something was different[/quote]


X2. Keep saying I'm going to paint the lever orange. I do this several times a year also when riding.

 

[yamadoo]

I agree check all the things above but I have much less track coast or spin on my 4 strokes than any 2 stroker I ever had. As Apex 06 said.

 

[YammyRX1]

One thing you could try is spraying WD40 on the inside of the track to see if it makes a big difference in the amount of time to stop. If not, maybe the problem is further up the drive train like a stuck caliper or something.

 

[Blue Dave]

The easiest way to tell if your brake is dragging is to simply grab the brake rotor in your fingers and rotate it back and forth. There is a little play in the chaincase that will allow the brake rotor to move slightly in each rotational direction. This slight rotational play should take very little effort especially with the belt removed. You are not spinning the track, just using the play in the chaincase for minimal rotational movement of the brake rotor. If the rotor feels locked and it takes some effort to spin it in each direction slightly you may have an issue with the caliper or e-brake.

This test could also indicate a seized jackshaft bearing. If the brake rotor will not turn slightly back and forth easily and you eliminate the brake caliper and e-brake as a possible cause then you may have a seized jackshaft bearing.

A similar test can be performed by spinning the track slightly by hand back and forth a slight distance using the same play in the chaincase. Unless the track is seriously overtightened it should spin very easily for a short distance in each direction until you feel the play removed from the chaincase. If this is not true you may have a seized driveshaft bearing or some seized wheel bearings in your skid.

 

[Blue Dave]

Did you take it to your dealer yet? If so, what did the dealer find?