kered
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Had my rear shock rebuilt on Apex gt and when you push down on the rear bumper sled doesn't come all the way back up . I can lift up on the rear bumper a couple inches. Any reason why?
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
Is the sled on a flat surface, not on dollies or anything? Rear spring preload is adjusted the way it was before the rebuild?
kered
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sled sitting flat on garage floor, I set the sag for my weight. Just doesn't wanna come up on its own that last couple inches
kered
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Is a rebuilt shock going to feel like new again or?
Metallicat
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Is your rebound dampening set very stiff? If you add more spring preload does it return all the way up?
kered
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I haven't tried that . Doesn't that affect your sag though? Rebound is set at 10 clicks from soft. Even at full soft same thing
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
If I set my sag and spring preload in the garage I always find I need more spring tension on the trail. The friction surfaces are different between concrete and snow, and a tunnel packed with snow and ice will add weight as well. So you could still perhaps not have enough spring preload for real trail conditions. It might take a few more turns of the spring to get the rear to return fully. If not then I can think of nothing else unless something is binding in the suspension.
kered
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I just loosened it to get the right sag setting but it was like that before. I would have to tighten it a lot. Doesnt feel like anything is binding
kered
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Its like I have a couple inches of sag without me sitting on it. Could it be my transfer rod needs servicing?
Last edited:
journeyman
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I just went through this last week in Michigan. Here the solenoid valve that controls the shock from the handlebar switch went bad. $270 for the part alone......ouch!!
kered
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Did that show anything on the display when you had that happen?I just went through this last week in Michigan. Here the solenoid valve that controls the shock from the handlebar switch went bad. $270 for the part alone......ouch!!
journeyman
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No in fact the indicator showed that it was increasing or decreasing when you flipped the switch up or down. The shop hooked up a good shock assembly and it activated as normal but with mine it did nothing. Fortunately they had a new SV on the shelf. He said they normally go about 8-10,000 miles before he sees one fail.
My sled has 13,000 plus on it. It was a one owner that I bought from them last year with 12,000 miles on it but is super clean and was ridden pretty easy....50 mph cruiser. My machine even had a groove in the middle of the clutch faces from driving at that speed. I had them refaced this year by a machinist.
My sled has 13,000 plus on it. It was a one owner that I bought from them last year with 12,000 miles on it but is super clean and was ridden pretty easy....50 mph cruiser. My machine even had a groove in the middle of the clutch faces from driving at that speed. I had them refaced this year by a machinist.
kered
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Do you know how I can troubleshoot the wires and connections?
journeyman
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I would just put a meter on the open end connection. Find out what voltage it should read when the switch is activated each way with sled running. As far as the solenoid valve you could do an ohm test on it. Find out what resistance a good SV is from a shop. Then ohm test it, if it shows OL on the meter then it's open and shot. Otherwise if it is good it should read an ohm value close to what a new one is, for example.... say 150 ohms or whatever is correct.
I was in a rock and a hard spot........on a snowmobile trip. I was at the mercy of taking it into a dealer. Otherwise I would have done it myself and saved some money.
I was in a rock and a hard spot........on a snowmobile trip. I was at the mercy of taking it into a dealer. Otherwise I would have done it myself and saved some money.
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