PUSH turbo questions

AttakDog

TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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How well did the PUSH turbos work that Yamaha offered for the Nyto high elevation last year? Are they pretty good?, What about durability? Can they work for low elevation with the right clutching? Saw a couple on e-bay for $2,600 new and complete, seemed like a great deal!
 
I jumped on the $2600 deal and have a dealer near by that sets them up for sea level with great results.
 
Did you buy the quiet kit for the extra $500? Push told me yesterday you get the boost gauge, a/f gauge, and a quiet muffler with that price. The regular has no gauges and is about 3 decibel louder then legal. The quiet kit is one below legal. So makes me wonder then if you need the quiet one in your area does that give you another choice, being the MPI turbo on ebay is going for $3,200, or is their turbo too loud also? I'm looking at similar options as you and the idea of the turbo with the weight in the back, and not having to buy an exhaust like on a S/C setup intreges me at these prices also.
 
turbo

f7straightliner said:
I jumped on the $2600 deal and have a dealer near by that sets them up for sea level with great results.
do you know if there doing any mods to the turbo itself for a sea level setup? ie actuator wastegate
 
I talked to Ulmer about what i want to do, and he says you can add something for a small price to adjust the waste gate down to six pounds. Push keeps telling me that them and Yamaha did real world tests as high as ten lbs bit set it at eightto make sure ot was safer for long pulls. Push supplies a different type of weight etc for your clutchif you go sea level. I guessing they could be monkeying with the boost that way fyi like dave did on my old stage two to keep it within a lower range. Which I would rather adjust it ulmers way through the wast gate so I can have him setup my clutch for corner to corner racing instead.
 
fuel system

would the stock fuel injectors/pump handle 10 lbs at sea level?
 
The stock system starts leaning out around 9psi at sealevel and around 10 starts going very lean from our experience. It can handle 8 all day no problem for extended long pulls however once you move past eight it struggles to supply enough fuel for any length of time.
 
mine struggles at 8 even 7 it is iffy for a longer run. Im at 12 -12.5 or so on AFR at 7 to 7.5 psi on the digital boost gauge.

I dont think you want to run pump fuel on 8 either.
 
Re: turbo

petetown said:
f7straightliner said:
I jumped on the $2600 deal and have a dealer near by that sets them up for sea level with great results.
do you know if there doing any mods to the turbo itself for a sea level setup? ie actuator wastegate
not sure
 
I would offer this, in my opinion you get what you pay for...
The base Push turbo kit is a cheap kit designed to run at higher elevations and the truth is the term reliability for low elevations is not something that was considered. It doesn't have any type of intercooling what-so ever, so right off the bat it screams "burn me down" if you plan on running boost at lower elevations on the questionable pump gas that we all get on the trail... It will run successfully at it's rated boost levels, but not with any safety margin for variations in fuel quality without intercooling.
It's constantly discussed how detrimental charge temperature is to detonation control with pump fuel, however PUSH tries to fool you by referencing that a Top Fuel car doesn't have an intercooler but then fails to acknowledge that nitromethane in an engine specifically designed for that heat during a 3 second run is a far cry from a snowmobile on gasoline running WOT all day long... let alone lower intake charge temps make more HP. Duh...
:drink:
The PUSH turbo can absolutely be tweaked to be made to run at low elevations, but by the time you add back on the cost of different clutching to actually make it work for you on the trail (because a helix alone doesn't cut it), add a must-have boost gauge and an AFR gauge that it doesn't come with, add the cost of the optional quieter "trail friendly muffler, and the cost of the low elevation fuel mod or add the cost of a fuel system upgrade, you still don't have any type of intercooling without spending way way more $$$... Now add your time being frustrated trying to make it work instead of riding??????
Then what would an engine repair cost? Don't be led on by the warranty BS either. Just because the installation doesn't void your Yamaha warranty, their loop hole is a failure because of detonation due to suspect fuel quality won't be since that is not something "installation" related. That is purely on the owner...
So just how much will you save in the long run going with the least expensive kit? "Penny wise and pound foolish?"

Having said that, just something to consider is compare some of the other kits out there fom MCX, etc. Take for example that an award winning FPP turbo kit already comes with a boost and AFR gauge, clutching, gearing, already designed for corner to corner throttle response, and most importantly is uniquely intercooled for proven pump gas reliability, and to boot comes standard with a trail muffler to get by the fish police.

Guys get easily misled by price alone, be conscience that marketing schemes aren't everything and know what it will cost you to get the additional hidden things you really need to make something work for you.
 
What about the other 180 boost kits in the market like the mpi s/c and mpi turbo that don't run an intercooler. They use higher quality parts for their turbos and have a large oil cooler for their s/c. With a few gauges and the right exhaust for sound requirements do you feel that the 6+ lbs of boost is able to be quality enough for midwest trails without the upgrades to a stage one?
 
Well, how about look at the motorsport OEM's and see if you can find one that produces a pump gas turbo or SC powetrain that uses a naturally aspirated compression ratio without some type of intercooling...
Again, why do you even want to cut corners. What's it worth?
 
i will say that i built my own kit for my nytro, no inter cooling and the charge tube constantly has ice and snow on it when I stop to look at it during normal use. My charge box is always cool to the touch.

I run trails, not a lot of wide open pulls. So I'm only corner to corner and 500 - 600 ft wide open at the most. This is at 7 or so pounds boost for the most part.

Im going to add a temp gauge this year to see where I'm at for actual charge temps. I wonder what the temp actually is at low boost levels with 20 degree F ambient.

Just sharing my experience.
 
Im sure yamaha wouldn't sell these if they wouldn't work at the recommended boost. Now as far as upgrading to 7+ lbs with reliability that is a different story imo
 


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