Questions about 2007 apex , and if this is a good deal, or no?

[Comatoast]

Well sadly I am selling the first snowmobile I ever bought , a 97 sx700, that I've owned for about 9 years .. made arrangements for tonight , and there's a part of me that hopes he doesn't call. Haha

Just time for something a little newer , and after buying my 2011 nytro xtx a few years back, I pretty much fell in love with the yammie 4strokes and the reliability.

So... That said , how reliable are the 07 apex sleds? I know there's probably alot out there on this subject , but just wanted to show you guys the link, so I know what to ask the seller about them , like what are the weak spots , problematic parts/issues etc...

This almost sounds like too good of a deal to me as I am also looking for a 12' enclosed trailer as well,..

I was looking at 2011+ apex sleds , but a deal this good ( if it's true ) I can't pass up..

http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/snw/5941367423.html

 

[Pete_man26]

Looks to be in pretty good shape from the pictures. Check the obvious, carbides, idler wheels , sliders. Tunnel trueness and front a-arms for cracks or bends. Check the front bulkhead where the front a-arms connect. The bushings can wear out and damage the bulkhead. Check oil and chain case oil for any filings. Start it, once it's running and warmed up put two gloves on and go to the exhaust tailpipes and plug them both with your gloves at the same time. The sled should stall, this is a good sign saying all gaskets and exhaust components are intact. If it continues to run then you have a leak, typically the exhaust donuts right behind the motor wear out. I think dealers usually charge $300-400 to do this. Check clutches for cracks or damage. Ask who has done the maintenance.

 

[Comatoast]

Sounds good thank you. Was this the year they had issues with an arm in the front of the skid cracking? I remember hearing that about certain sleds , but couldnt remember which ones.

For the most part is this sled basically the same performance wise as the 2011+ minus EPS and exup, and maybe some other minor things? I'd assume copper gaskets are the way to show as well as oilite front bushings/bearings??

 

[Pete_man26]

Sounds good thank you. Was this the year they had issues with an arm in the front of the skid cracking? I remember hearing that about certain sleds , but couldnt remember which ones.

For the most part is this sled basically the same performance wise as the 2011+ minus EPS and exup, and maybe some other minor things? I'd assume copper gaskets are the way to show as well as oilite front bushings/bearings??

Yes 06-07 have the standard arm, I've been looking for a used one for mine since new is $500 CAD.08 was the upgraded arm. Check for cracked rails as well, typically on where the rear pivot arm bolts to the rail.

The sleds are fairly close to the same but are 128" instead of the old 121", I think some minor engine changes plus what you have mentioned. Possibly some more suspension changes as well.

 

[biffdotorg]

Yes, the 2007 models were notorious for the weakness in the front of the skid and some shock mount points. I'm not sure how different the Apex ER skid is from the GT other than the shock being used. But there should be some rusty welds on the joints in the skid, just look those spots over for cracks.

I do believe many Apex models of that vintage liked to have the rear heat exchanger installed as well. I know I had one on my '07 GT.

There are a number of differences between the 06-10 and 11-current Apex. But until you drive a newer one, you will still be happy with this over your Pro-Action sled. EPS, Seat, EXUP, Additional HP are noticeable, but probably double what you are going to spend on this sled too.

Good luck!

 

[Comatoast]

Thanks everyone, the sx700 ended up selling, and it's definitely bittersweet. Not only because it was a great sled for 8 plus years and never let me down, but it was the first sled I ever bought.

Hopefully I can continue the 4 stroke tradition I started with the nytro and find myself a nice little apex. I see a few 2008 40th anniversary ltx models around, but as clean as they are , is 5500 a little much? I'm starting to see 2011+ around that price range!

 

[Indy]

My riding buddy just purchased an 07 GT w/9000 miles for $3000.

 

[steiner]

Things to look for and expect to do on a 06-07 Apex/Attak
A arm bushings. They will be shot after 2k miles. Replace them with Oilites
Bulkhead can crack if skis catch something or bad bushings have ovalled out the seats. Install a Bulkhead saver kit/repair kit.
It will dart like a son of a gun. Install a good carbide on the stock ski. Doolies, Bergstromms with shim, Snowtrackers etc.. will get you riding straight.
Oil resy is know to crack at lower mount. Install a Tank Saver kit to prevent that.
Exhaust donuts will fail anytime after 2k miles. Replace with copper donuts.
Factory Y pipes break. Thin titanium cant take the beating. Replace with SS pipes.
Collector pipe may break at the Y. Add 2010 mid hanger to the system.
Factory wheels do not have replaceable/serviceable bearings. Use Yamaha spoked wheels with replaceable bearings.
136 skids tend to crack behind the rear swing arm. Add reinforcing plates and a pipe to connect the rails together between the rear large wheels and the small wheels.
Drive axle has some known failures after 10k miles. Update with a HD aftermarket or use a 2010+ and modified it to fit.
The three steering bushings get a lot of play in them. Replace them with Oilites.
Hand warmers need help. Add Yamaheaters and you will never get cold hands again.
Headlight hi/low separation is wide. Too wide. Install a HID kit. Hi/low separation is still there but know atleast you can see into the darkness.
Front W arm is weak. Either get an arm from a 2008-10 or have it reinforced like a 2008.
Shocks will need rebuilding no matter how many miles. The oil in them is old and dirty.
If you weigh more than 180lb and like to drive a little harder than the average bear you will need a better spring in the rear. Either a Yamaha Big Boy spring or a BoP multi rate.
The RA adjuster cable will break. You can replace it every year or find a setting that works well for you and delete the adjuster completely.
About 1 out of 500 Apex's have a ground block issue. Simple fix is to cut and solder these grounds together deleting the ground blocks.
2006-07 original battery will need to be replaced due to the age of the battery. 10 years is a long time for a battery in a seasonal vehicle
The 2006 handle bars have a bolt on hook. This has proven to be very cold and robs heat from the short handwarmer/grips. This was updated in 2007 with one piece bars/hooks.
A rear cooler seems to be almost a must on these sleds.

 

[Comatoast]

Things to look for and expect to do on a 06-07 Apex/Attak
A arm bushings. They will be shot after 2k miles. Replace them with Oilites
Bulkhead can crack if skis catch something or bad bushings have ovalled out the seats. Install a Bulkhead saver kit/repair kit.
It will dart like a son of a gun. Install a good carbide on the stock ski. Doolies, Bergstromms with shim, Snowtrackers etc.. will get you riding straight.
Oil resy is know to crack at lower mount. Install a Tank Saver kit to prevent that.
Exhaust donuts will fail anytime after 2k miles. Replace with copper donuts.
Factory Y pipes break. Thin titanium cant take the beating. Replace with SS pipes.
Collector pipe may break at the Y. Add 2010 mid hanger to the system.
Factory wheels do not have replaceable/serviceable bearings. Use Yamaha spoked wheels with replaceable bearings.
136 skids tend to crack behind the rear swing arm. Add reinforcing plates and a pipe to connect the rails together between the rear large wheels and the small wheels.
Drive axle has some known failures after 10k miles. Update with a HD aftermarket or use a 2010+ and modified it to fit.
The three steering bushings get a lot of play in them. Replace them with Oilites.
Hand warmers need help. Add Yamaheaters and you will never get cold hands again.
Headlight hi/low separation is wide. Too wide. Install a HID kit. Hi/low separation is still there but know atleast you can see into the darkness.
Front W arm is weak. Either get an arm from a 2008-10 or have it reinforced like a 2008.
Shocks will need rebuilding no matter how many miles. The oil in them is old and dirty.
If you weigh more than 180lb and like to drive a little harder than the average bear you will need a better spring in the rear. Either a Yamaha Big Boy spring or a BoP multi rate.
The RA adjuster cable will break. You can replace it every year or find a setting that works well for you and delete the adjuster completely.
About 1 out of 500 Apex's have a ground block issue. Simple fix is to cut and solder these grounds together deleting the ground blocks.
2006-07 original battery will need to be replaced due to the age of the battery. 10 years is a long time for a battery in a seasonal vehicle
The 2006 handle bars have a bolt on hook. This has proven to be very cold and robs heat from the short handwarmer/grips. This was updated in 2007 with one piece bars/hooks.
A rear cooler seems to be almost a must on these sleds.

Awesome write up bud, thank you for that! I did actually make a thread deciding to probably now go with one of two that I'm deciding on.. a 40th ltx in mint condition, or a 2011 shorty in mint condition. Both around $5500...

I'm glad you wrote this out, as it will hopefully be able to help me help someone else out. For all the weird/bad issues the 06-07 had, it sure was the start of something good!

 

[CaptCaper]

Things to look for and expect to do on a 06-07 Apex/Attak
A arm bushings. They will be shot after 2k miles. Replace them with Oilites
Bulkhead can crack if skis catch something or bad bushings have ovalled out the seats. Install a Bulkhead saver kit/repair kit.
It will dart like a son of a gun. Install a good carbide on the stock ski. Doolies, Bergstromms with shim, Snowtrackers etc.. will get you riding straight.
Oil resy is know to crack at lower mount. Install a Tank Saver kit to prevent that.
Exhaust donuts will fail anytime after 2k miles. Replace with copper donuts.
Factory Y pipes break. Thin titanium cant take the beating. Replace with SS pipes.
Collector pipe may break at the Y. Add 2010 mid hanger to the system.
Factory wheels do not have replaceable/serviceable bearings. Use Yamaha spoked wheels with replaceable bearings.
136 skids tend to crack behind the rear swing arm. Add reinforcing plates and a pipe to connect the rails together between the rear large wheels and the small wheels.
Drive axle has some known failures after 10k miles. Update with a HD aftermarket or use a 2010+ and modified it to fit.
The three steering bushings get a lot of play in them. Replace them with Oilites.
Hand warmers need help. Add Yamaheaters and you will never get cold hands again.
Headlight hi/low separation is wide. Too wide. Install a HID kit. Hi/low separation is still there but know atleast you can see into the darkness.
Front W arm is weak. Either get an arm from a 2008-10 or have it reinforced like a 2008.
Shocks will need rebuilding no matter how many miles. The oil in them is old and dirty.
If you weigh more than 180lb and like to drive a little harder than the average bear you will need a better spring in the rear. Either a Yamaha Big Boy spring or a BoP multi rate.
The RA adjuster cable will break. You can replace it every year or find a setting that works well for you and delete the adjuster completely.
About 1 out of 500 Apex's have a ground block issue. Simple fix is to cut and solder these grounds together deleting the ground blocks.
2006-07 original battery will need to be replaced due to the age of the battery. 10 years is a long time for a battery in a seasonal vehicle
The 2006 handle bars have a bolt on hook. This has proven to be very cold and robs heat from the short handwarmer/grips. This was updated in 2007 with one piece bars/hooks.
A rear cooler seems to be almost a must on these sleds.

Boy did you nail it....ha.. I've owned 2 2007 Attaks.... since new... I am a large and old guy so don't bang the machine around ..just trail ride... so I faired well with my 1st one that I sold at 9990 miles... just wheels ,donuts,pipes.. cooler install,Yamaheater. Changed my front bushings at 8k ..slightly oval on a few holes but took the new bushings fine..by pressing in. I wonder now with a set of straight line cable scratchers down all the time if the cooler wouldn't be needed. If the track is studded he need to add cooler protection of 1 1/2 over cooler or the studs will tear into the cooler..
But these and those above are easy to do with this forums great members posts if a guy is handy and not to expensive for parts to keep the machine running reliably for many years or miles.. Compared to a new machine that will have it's own set of issues after many miles as well.