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Replacing Plugs

big_ry_ry

Expert
Joined
Mar 1, 2005
Messages
221
Location
Buffalo, NY
On my 05 RS venture I have had to replace the plugs twice now. Once last season and now once this season. I have only ran 100 miles this season (no snow) I have not done any of the updates yet. The plugs come out black. The dealer said it maybe due to the CDI. Just wondering if anyone is having this problem. Also my sled does not want to stay running when cold. I normally restart 2-4 times before getting off my trialer. Once warm no problems.
 

I have an o5 RS Venture ,I have never replaced the plugs ,I will likely change them in three years weather they need it or not . The secret is to baby sit the choke . As soon as it starts I open it about 1/4 as it warms up
I open it alittle at a time . I go by the sound if it starts missing to rich ,if it stalls to lean .
Hope this helped .
 
I have a 05 RS Venture and I agree with Wilson you have to babysit the choke for a few minutes when you first start it up. I have had mine back to the dealer for all the updates including the CDI replacement. I have also had the carbs cleaned and sync'd. I am still on the original set of plugs. I have right around 1000 miles on it.

I am on my 3rd set of Hyfax, added marginal snow wheel kit and use the Yamaha HP Hyfax.

CR
 
wilson is right. I fowled 2 sets before I started doing that way, The CDI has nothing to do with it. Once these are fouled you need new ones unless you can B blast them.
 
Same as above with the choke. Also I found if you go real easy and smooth on the throttle when backing off slow its not as likely to stall as it is if you kind of tweak the throttle back and forth like you would on a two stroke. When you are warming up watching the tach is helpful to make engine run as lean as it can as it will be at its highest rpm at the proper choke setting.
 
Choke

I find that when i baby the choke it stalls out, I thought about less choke but my sled would not stay running. I had the carbs done in october with my oil change (pre season package) so i am still wondering what is the cause. The dealer was saying that the CDI deals with the ignition and if you are not getting a good spark it will not combust and you will get blackened plugs. A little confused here. so any info is greatly appreacited.
 
baby the choke or they'll foul out in a hurry. yamaha should really stress this in their manuals.
 
Re: Choke

big_ry_ry said:
I find that when i baby the choke it stalls out, I thought about less choke but my sled would not stay running. I had the carbs done in october with my oil change (pre season package) so i am still wondering what is the cause. The dealer was saying that the CDI deals with the ignition and if you are not getting a good spark it will not combust and you will get blackened plugs. A little confused here. so any info is greatly appreacited.


When I went to pick mine up from the cdi update it would noy start needed plugs after that I drained the old gas put new gas and sea foam and I shut the choke off as soon as possible.since then have had no trouble. The cdi update is for the tors problem will not cahnge the spark at all.
 
You need to feather the choke off almost immediatly after starting. And dont touch the throttle until it has warmed up for a minute or two, this is important because when the engine is cold the plugs will foul super easy. If you want, try these plugs. NGK CR8EIX (#4218). These are iridium plugs and seem to resist fouling better. I use these plugs in my YZ 450 and they do help with fouling, and help to start easier. I have a set ready for my Nytro but the originals are still kicking so I'll wait to put them in. If you do buy these plugs dont get them from your dealer. The dealer will charge about $20 per plug. I get them from Advance auto for $6.96 per plug, they have to order them but they always have them by the next day for me. Advance auto told me that NGK gold plugs are warranted against fouling for life, and the iridium plugs have a 2 year warranty. All you gotta do is keep your reciept, Iv already exchanged the gold plugs for new ones but never needed to return the iridium ones.
 
plugs

I completely understand about choking less imediatly, if i go half choke under 1-2 minutes my sled stalls every time. I went and tried this today, i put it to 3/4 choke right away (10 seconds) and died 4 seconds later. I think there may be something else wrong. The plugs in there now are brand new so these are not fouled plugs. This sled does not want to run cold, regardless what i do with the choke.

I Normally wait untill the temp light goes off before giving any gas.


I will try to move the choke down to nothing as soon as possible...
 
chock and starting problem.

Big ry ry

Have been reading all the posts and I have a little different twist my dealer told me to use. Here's my 2 cents.

To start, turn engine over with no chock at all, slowly advance the choke until it starts[no throttle at all], once it is idleing immediately start to cut the chock back slowly. It will idle rough but that's ok.Continue to shut off choke as long as it will keep running. Eventually it will smooth out as the temperature starts to rise. I was told that if you start with full choke there is so much gas dumping into the carbs that is what fouls the plugs.

I have 1200 miles on and never had the problem again.

Hope I shed some lite in an understandable language.

Regards Combat :yam: ;)!
 


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