set up for 1/8mile Asphalt racing rx1 front mount turbo

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looking for a starting setup for a rx1 Asphalt drag sled it has a front mount turbo with a gt2554 running 8-10lbs boost no head shim at 500-1000ft elevation.need help with everything no idea where to start could use clutching,jetting gearing.oh iam still locking for a good used front mount header to if anybody has one for cheap even cracked ones i can have fixed.
 
Start by reading the Asphalt Result 200x in the Racing forum, lots of info there. Basically 25/38 gearing with 10 tooth drivers is a good place to start. Lower it down using srx shocks and don't change your jetting. I would go from winter to summer and not change that part. Lots of info in the racing forum on this, it starts in the year 2004 I believe.
 
There is also a "search" button, lol. 470 posts and you have not been in the race section. I noticed you posted a duplicate of this in that forum now, have you read the posts in there? There's a lot of good information in there to read, I know it takes time and there are contradictions, but have a look. Start with what I told you to go with here.
Are you just starting out on asphalt?
 
Hi
I have been racing on the tar for almost ten years now. Only the last couple have been with a boosted four-stroke.

From what I have learned. No two sleds are the same.

Here is my two cents, but I have only raced a 1/4 mile.

I am also running 10 psi of boost, but am using a MPI s/c. I am using the stock gears with 10 tooth drivers. Since you are only running 1/8 mile I think that you could go with a lot steeper gears. Try to set the sled up so that it runs out of gear just past the finish line.

I recommend that you get a set of high qaulity adjustible weigths. I am using heavy hitters, but think that super tips may be better. When ever you get a set of weights make sure you get a set that have the base weight high enough to work with 10 psi of boost.

I am running a stage 1 Ulmer helix and would definitly recommend that you talk with Alen Ulmer prior to buying any clutch parts. He not only sells the parts, but he set-ups race sled and races them too.

I am not sure if you are running a stock rear suspention, or if you have an aftermarket one. I am using one of my own design, but it is similar to a Wahl and a pro-line (its has features from both styles). If you are using the stock skid it is recommended to add as many extra bogie wheels as you can. Remenber that the tar tracks are only pushed into the ground directly oppisite of where the bogie wheels are. That is why the aftermarket skids all have more wheels. The extra wheels are extra important on the rear axle. I currently have seven eight inch wheels on my rear axle and I am using a 10 5/8 wide track. It almost looks like a roller.

Like hlmrx1 stated it is very important to lower the sled as much as possible. This helps to reduce the frontal area of the sled and greatly help the aerodynamics.

As far a jetting goes, on a four stoke you should be able to stay with the same jets as in the winter, but the only way to be certain is to get a widband O2 gauge. I learned this the hard way. My set-up uses one jet size lower that stock 132.5's my needles are lowered by one clip position (clips moved up one position).

As I stated early, my two cents, don'y forget nothing beat trial an error to get the best possible set-up for your sled.

Remember no two sled will ever be set-up exactly the same.

Good Luck,

RX1DERFULL
 


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