Stripped axle bolt or not tight enough?

nice. working on bearings on betsy atm. forgot tool at home and remebered how hard it was without it.
 
As per. the original post…
So I held the 17mm with a wrench and tightened the 19 mm and it did tighten up so I'm hoping things are OK but just in case.....

Q:
1 .If the shear pen is in fact broken how would I know? What would or wouldn't work when driving? Would something just spin or fall apart on the trail?

2. Do I have to disassemble the axle to fist?? or do I just reach in and pop in a pin if I ever find the location- and big thanks for the pics!
 
I would think that if you were able to torque the rear axle nut to spec which is 54 ft/lbs, the shear pin is not broken. If it was, you wouldn't be able to tighten the rear bolt and nut.
 
exactly what robx-1 said. when it is stripped it will not tighten up at all. been there.
 
Does the 17mm side still turn without the 19mm nut turning? If so better bring a rescue sleigh with you on your next ride.
 
Well in the end it seem to tighten up OK. First run of the season today and no issues... well the rear hand warmers barely worked but that's a different thread!
A big thanks to all contributors!!

***** The key info here for people like me who didn't know is... When they say "remove axle bolts" in the owner's manual, the correct procedure seems to be put a 17 mm wrench on one bolt before you loosen the other side- 19 mm bolt... or you may risk snapping the shear pin - which we have established is bad!
 
Glad you have it working Silver4. I would think you would know if it became loose again by having more track deflection due to axle coming loose and sliding forward.

Sometimes the best way to learn is via troubleshooting. Oh, having access to a site with a wealth of information and knowledgeable users also helps. :rocks:

Wasn't aware the service manual referred to them as "axle bolts". Once you realize its just a very long 17mm bolt on one side and a 19mm nut on the other side, it only makes sense to secure the bolt and loosen the nut. Same holds true when torquing the nut side and not the bolt side.
 
Had this happen to me. Call Travis get a used one. I use 1/2 electrical tubing (emt) 16 inches long
tap the tubing so it pushes out the old axle Tricky job but works
 
Well in the end it seem to tighten up OK. First run of the season today and no issues... well the rear hand warmers barely worked but that's a different thread!
A big thanks to all contributors!!

***** The key info here for people like me who didn't know is... When they say "remove axle bolts" in the owner's manual, the correct procedure seems to be put a 17 mm wrench on one bolt before you loosen the other side- 19 mm bolt... or you may risk snapping the shear pin - which we have established is bad!


Check Yamahaheater.com for the kiet for hot hands. Amazing invention. Many of us own one now for years. ha.
 


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