studding a rage

k75

Newbie
Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
19
Reaction score
2
Points
703
Location
Bemidji, mn
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2016 Vector x-tx
2006 Rage sold
Indy trail sold
Indy light - poor kids sold
Cat 340 - kids favorite, melted sold
1994 600 V-MAX sold
I have an 06 rage. This is it's third season and I have decided to stud it in the off season. I have never put studs on any of my past sleds. I am aware some have reported some problems. The guys I sled with seem not concerned with patterns but I gather the how and amount are important. I would appreciate any feedback on what has or has not worked well. If I do this should I add or change some of the wheels? My hyfax seems to hold up well if the snow conditions are excellent to very good. Once the trails and lakes get icy, by by hyfax. I figure studding may increase the wear. I am a trail rider but would like better handling in icy conditions.

One unrelated comment. I am the only Yamaha rider, (Vmax before) three seasons of folks making jokes about my four stroke are slowing down. They fill twice I fill once. They burn oil, I change once a season. The motor is just impressive. A few of the guys are now looking at a Yamaha in their future. The few wives who join at times are asking why their husbands did not buy them a Yamaha. No smell. I have a heated seat and they sit on ice. Now to take off with out spinning the track any more.
 
You would want to use a pattern.They make one for long track sleds.Your hyfax should last longer because studs will throw up more snow and ice.No need to add wheels because of studs.If you need some studs,template let me know.
 
We studded our 06 Rages. The tunnel protectors aren't wide or deep enough to prevent studs nicking the rear heat exchanger when and if sled bottoms out. We had to add pieces of hyfax to our protectors[ riveted them on] to prevent further damage. Yamaha has an update or suggestion that the tunnnel protector has to be unriveted and spacers added to drop it down. plowking
 
Nicking the exchanger? How about almost destroying it! I wish I knew that before riding this weekend. How thick hyfax are people using to prevent this condition? I have just about 1/4" penetration. (1.4" stud height, 1.65" overall).
 
I never found a need to stud a track. Good track and trail condition is all you need. In the U.P. of Michigan the locals call them training wheels.
 
I appreciate the comments. plowking, I asked the dealer if he was aware of a Yamaha instruction. He is looking in to it. The sled goes in tomorrow for new hyfax. xtcman, I agree, the UP has great snow, I live in a world of ice. I have decided I really would like to grip in corners and not spin on the lakes. When there is good snow this sled does just fine for me.
 
Studding Rage

Good luck at the dealer. We just cut pieces of hyfax we bought into 11-12 inch length,didn't shave the thickness any,we turned the bottom of hyfax toward protector[ installed below rear exchanger only] so rivets wouldn't stick out. We have bumped them a few times,seems to work. My dealer said Yamaha had a update or suggestion,it involves drilling out the rivets on tunnel protectors,mostly at the rear, pry or bend down protectors,install spacers and rerivet with real long rivets ,the gap at tunnel keeps protector closer to track. plowking
 
Anyone who usually rides trails and lakes and has studs, will never go back to unstudded. Acceleration and braking are vastly improved especially coming out of corners. But there are plenty of drawbacks as follows: 1) Cheap studs will break and or wear quickly 2) Extra rotating mass will take off top end (unless you are on hardpack or ice) 3) Hammering on the gas (like we all do) will cause extra stress on your track - check it for damage often - my experience shows that studded track will last about 3 or 4 thousand miles. 4) A torn track with a stud flapping around under there will cause lots of damage to heat exchangers - the front heat exchanger is very hard to replace and expensive.

My advice is use good quality studs. Make sure you have enough carbide up front -- studs will increase push in the corners otherwise. Use the tall nuts if your studs are over 1.25". Don't overtighten them.
 
Does anyone know if the 07 Rages have updated tunnel protectors? Or do you still need to add a piece of hyfax to stock ones? Thanks, G.B.
 


Back
Top