To STUD or not to STUD that is the ?.

buddah said:
One of the guys on another site has the following tagline:

Studs are like training wheels......once you learn to ride you can take them off......... :-o
doesn't Hibbert race with studs?
 
How long does the Xt stud tips last? I wear out studs before the track is shot.... So what do you do with the Xt. Those studs just last forever in that track?
 
Yamadoo, I think you'll be happy with whatever you decide to do. Honestly if you are on the fence about studding it or are thinking that you may stud it I'd still even wait and get in a ride or two without studs just so you can feel how good the ripsaw II works. I've heard a few complaints that the track spins a lot..I'd love to know what other sleds those guys were driving that think an unstudded viper spins a lot. Right from the first day out I couldn't believe how awesome it hooked up in a straight line shot but at the same time it's no comparison to a studded track. Like you said, it'll be something to pass the time waiting for next winter, I'm doing the same with my viper however I've done all I want to do chassis wise so now I'm passing the summer by by puttin a turbo on mine lol. Just thinkin it may be something good for u to see first hand how the sled is without studs so you can make the decision yourself whether or not studs r right for you
 
Thanks Studroes144.

Now turbo. Wow that is a sled changing project

Yamadoo
 
I road my 1998 SRX without suds for 8 years until my wife started riding it and had problems climbing a 40%, 20-25 foot long totally iced ramp.

The SRX had high compression heads, was clutched, geared, team secondary, a M10 suspension with Ohlin shocks all around, and a 1.25" ripsaw track, it runs great. I never did find top speed on that sled.

My first ride on My LTX Viper was an eye opener, having 80 lbs/ft of torque at clutch engagement has to be felt to be believed. With 3-4 inches of lake effect snow on top of ice I literally could not ride down the street at 25 MPH and just barely touch the throttle without correcting to keep the sled from swapping ends and I still had factory hardware on the skies. It took so much concentration to keep straight that it wasn't even fun. So at 37 miles I studded the track and added the Studboy 6" deuce bars.

I believe that if I had not taken the sled out those first two rides and waited until we had a few inches of system snow on top of that ice I might not have studs now. Having said that, I am glad that I have a few studs in my track and a more aggressive ski carbide. Both of our Vipers have studs and identical ski carbide which allow my wife and I to relax and just ride and enjoy the company, trails, and scenery along the way. We don't run as fast as most of you youngsters but we have done 140 miles in 7-71/2 hours, with dinner at the 1/2 way point ,and a quick stop at the casino along the way.

Just some food for thought.
 
Thumper1 said:
buddah said:
One of the guys on another site has the following tagline:

Studs are like training wheels......once you learn to ride you can take them off......... :-o
doesn't Hibbert race with studs?


LOL! maybe some day Hibbert will be experienced enough to ride with out stud's. Makes me laugh to hear about how all the great experienced rider's don't need stud's. Been riding for 38 years and icy situation's pop up at unexpected times. To me if you're a trail rider it should not even be a question!
 
kviper said:
Thumper1 said:
buddah said:
One of the guys on another site has the following tagline:

Studs are like training wheels......once you learn to ride you can take them off......... :-o
doesn't Hibbert race with studs?


LOL! maybe some day Hibbert will be experienced enough to ride with out stud's. Makes me laugh to hear about how all the great experienced rider's don't need stud's. Been riding for 38 years and icy situation's pop up at unexpected times. To me if you're a trail rider it should not even be a question!
:Rockon:
 
Does anybody ever stud the cobra 1.6 wanted to buy the ice cobra 1.6 but they don't make it for the xtx 141 viper yet anybody run the ice cobra and have good results with it
 
Stud it! As mentioned the Rip II is 2-ply, and with the way the track is designed it is meant to corner easier (slide easier). As long as you don't over stud, you will still be able slide the rear around a little. The increased acceleration, and braking outweighs any negatives in my mind.
 
DooZ I am thinking as you are that the down side to studding is so small and the upside so real I will do it.

I started this thread hoping to come away more comfortable with not studding, now after much reading and thinking..............I am going to stud
 
i rode my 2014 viper for over 800 miles this winter and i didnt have it studed first sled i didnt have studs in and it was scarty a few times for sure....good points on both sides...
 
Well, am I making a mistake studding a R-TX LE (w/1.25" track) with 90 studs versus not studding at all? It comes to 2 studs per bar. I'm adding a Trail Performer Kit to the machine and just don't want the track blowing out from under me if I decide not to stud.

I know some will say, ride it first. But, it's simply a convenience factor to have it studded upon delivery.

Cannondale: you ride a 129" Viper in an area I ride a few times a year. Studs, no studs, IceRipper....what are your thoughts? Thanks!
 
The biggest issue when using studs is when people don't use enough. If you're going to be adding hp to the already torquey viper I think you should be using more than 90 studs. With that few of studs you're putting a lot of stress on them. I think you should be up in the 144 range unless you're a very laid back kinda rider but since you're doing a performance package you're obviously looking for more speed and power. Food for thought.
 
Woody's recommends as little as 90 or as much as 135. I guess these figures are just a starting point for someone. I really do not want to stud, however, I don't feel like the sled will get the traction it needs without adding traction products.
 


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