smokeless1
Pro
I was considering installation of the transfer enhancement kit, but see that they have a nice "ice free" adjustable transfer rod.
I want to put better skiis on for next year and am waiting for the 05 skiis to come out to add some outside stance to make it a bit more stable for me on my 04 mountain.
Has anyone done both, or ride with someone else who did the other, and which one effects the ride more. I suspect the transfer is good for the powder but might suffer some on the trail. Maybe the adjustable rods would be better for various conditions including powder.
Anyone else do some research on this?
I want to put better skiis on for next year and am waiting for the 05 skiis to come out to add some outside stance to make it a bit more stable for me on my 04 mountain.
Has anyone done both, or ride with someone else who did the other, and which one effects the ride more. I suspect the transfer is good for the powder but might suffer some on the trail. Maybe the adjustable rods would be better for various conditions including powder.
Anyone else do some research on this?
rx1forever
Expert
mpi transfer kit
Everyone that I have talked to and the info gathered the transfer kit has 7 adjustable positions of transfer, and drops 5 lbs, you can remove the inner idler wheels or leave them in, trail ride remains about the same, I am not sure about the transfer rods, I will be installing the mpi kit this weekend so I hope that this helps you out, it looks like it will be a easy install, thanks deran 


smokeless1
Pro
keep me posted on the install. Thanks
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I have to issue a word of caution with the transfer enhancement kit.
Most guys thought I was nuts when I said I was ratcheting the track WITH extroverts and the transfer enhancement kit until they heard my track ratcheting. I have chewed up the extroverts a bit by this. I keep tightening to make it stop and now I'm not sure I'm any looser than I was with the stock setup. I'm really not sure why this is happening. I tightened the rear shock slightly and loosened up the front shock on the rear suspension trying to get it under control but I'm still struggling. I think I'll go back a hole closer to stock on the transfer kit. Take it easy. PB
Most guys thought I was nuts when I said I was ratcheting the track WITH extroverts and the transfer enhancement kit until they heard my track ratcheting. I have chewed up the extroverts a bit by this. I keep tightening to make it stop and now I'm not sure I'm any looser than I was with the stock setup. I'm really not sure why this is happening. I tightened the rear shock slightly and loosened up the front shock on the rear suspension trying to get it under control but I'm still struggling. I think I'll go back a hole closer to stock on the transfer kit. Take it easy. PB
LazyBastard
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With the transfer enhancement kit, the track tension is no longer maintained. When you open the throttle, the tension on the track forces the rear of the skid to move upwards and the front to move downwards. With the control rods, the back of the skid is held outwards as it is brought up, forcing the front of the skid to come along with it, thus maintaining the track tension.
I find that with stock drivers on a non-turbo sled, with control rods, the track (144") can be sagging REAL loose and there is no ratcheting. Without the transfer rods, tighten that track like a guitar string, and it still ratchets BAD.
Also, without the control rods, the front of the skid bottoms out REAL BAD on very little bumps (because bumps are pushing straight against the front spring and not distributed across both)... for this reason, my main arm broke. Cost me $10 in steel to make a new super-heavy-duty and 4" extended main arm.
The neat thing about the aftermarket adjustable control rods is that they have much more adjustment available than the stock rods, which will let you to eliminate the up-coupling without loosing the down-coupling, or set it for *any* precise amount of up-coupling that you like.
I find that with stock drivers on a non-turbo sled, with control rods, the track (144") can be sagging REAL loose and there is no ratcheting. Without the transfer rods, tighten that track like a guitar string, and it still ratchets BAD.
Also, without the control rods, the front of the skid bottoms out REAL BAD on very little bumps (because bumps are pushing straight against the front spring and not distributed across both)... for this reason, my main arm broke. Cost me $10 in steel to make a new super-heavy-duty and 4" extended main arm.
The neat thing about the aftermarket adjustable control rods is that they have much more adjustment available than the stock rods, which will let you to eliminate the up-coupling without loosing the down-coupling, or set it for *any* precise amount of up-coupling that you like.
rx1forever
Expert
transfer kit
pmed you powder blue 8)

Prairie Dog
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Bastard,
Thanks for the info. I put straps on mine for the last ride this year and although really impressed with the extros etc, I did get lots of front bottoming. As it was the last ride, I defferred the problem until next year. Can a guy get a stronger front spring while maintaining the existing length. I tried to tighten it one notch, but get lots of track noise from the front of the sliders. Any thoughts. Those crappy trails are an evil necessity to get to the hill quite often.
thanks
stu
Thanks for the info. I put straps on mine for the last ride this year and although really impressed with the extros etc, I did get lots of front bottoming. As it was the last ride, I defferred the problem until next year. Can a guy get a stronger front spring while maintaining the existing length. I tried to tighten it one notch, but get lots of track noise from the front of the sliders. Any thoughts. Those crappy trails are an evil necessity to get to the hill quite often.
thanks
stu
LazyBastard
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Yes, you can get harder springs. Check www.maxxperf.com, they have suitable springs.
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