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Tuning Rb3 in Mountians

Sibola

Lifetime Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
130
Location
Burns Lake B.C. Canada
Just wondering what people where using to tune there rb3 in mountians? Small laptop? Or smart phone? How does the smart phone work? Easy to use or learn how to use?
 

You can get a small lap top for 400$ and buy a cord to connect to the sled or you can use the blue bike blue tooth with your lap top, or get a phone. I think the phone worked great, it just wasnt for major tuning. I think it would be perfect for a simple tune once in a while. packing a laptop in your back pack sucks..... not to mention the crap your friends give you about tuning your sled on the mtn.
 
There is also a major #*$&@ if you tune your sled are sea level and think it will work at elevation...

I can tell you... it won't


I have to tune it at elevation to get it work there... then going back to sealevel it still work, just not as great (richer)


seems like the rb3 overcompensate the elevation.
 
That really sucks. That's one of the main reasons I bought the RB3 so I didn't have to mess around at elevation.
So are you saying it will be running on the lean side the higher you go in elevation?
 
Major elevation changes, yes need to retune but minor ones should be allright. But I think I will just make two maps, one for around 2000-4000 feet. Another for 5000-7000 feet. I don't think it matter's what you have, if you dial in at sea level or even 1500 feet and you jump up to 5000-8000 feet it's not going to run at it's full potential. To big of a difference's in air density, temp, moisture content.
 
Mine was well tuned for sea level.

When climbing in mountain... around 4000 feets it started to go lean... and past 7000 feet it was seriously lean... so much it was almost not driveable.

I re-tuned on top and when going back down at end of day, it got real rich down but at least was driveable...


So really it would be a good idea to have two maps to help with density changes.

Best thing would be a altitude sensor with a programmable compensation table to keep the rb3 consistant regardless of altitude... that would be a GREAT add on.
 
Not to start a argument but if you where tuned at sea level, and went up it should run richer no. Higher you go less air density, so should need less fuel.Or thats the way it works on two strokes, the higher you go the smaller the jets you need. The lower you are the more fuel you need.

So I would say if your tuned around 2000 feet and climb up to say 7000 feet air is alot thinner so your sled should run on the fat side(richer). But should still be rideable, might not pull full rpm's though on a long pull.
 
do any of you guys notice a spitting when you cruise down the trail? I did a trace while cruising and the tracer is jumping back and forth between 2 boxes and those have different timing. this only happens when I am in a steady throttle position. when I am grabbing some throttle it doesnt do it. I also dont see a change in vaccum or air fuel when its spitting. its like a popping sound but faint. This is happening on 2 boxes we have and its in the range of 4-7000 rpms, where the timing is increased.
 
Sibola said:
Not to start a argument but if you where tuned at sea level, and went up it should run richer no. Higher you go less air density, so should need less fuel.Or thats the way it works on two strokes, the higher you go the smaller the jets you need. The lower you are the more fuel you need.

So I would say if your tuned around 2000 feet and climb up to say 7000 feet air is alot thinner so your sled should run on the fat side(richer). But should still be rideable, might not pull full rpm's though on a long pull.

That is what puzzles me the most.

almost like as if the rb3 was overcompensating elevation change, but what I wrote is perfectly true.
 
mulot30th said:
Sibola said:
Not to start a argument but if you where tuned at sea level, and went up it should run richer no. Higher you go less air density, so should need less fuel.Or thats the way it works on two strokes, the higher you go the smaller the jets you need. The lower you are the more fuel you need.

So I would say if your tuned around 2000 feet and climb up to say 7000 feet air is alot thinner so your sled should run on the fat side(richer). But should still be rideable, might not pull full rpm's though on a long pull.

That is what puzzles me the most.

almost like as if the rb3 was overcompensating elevation change, but what I wrote is perfectly true.

Oh I get what your saying, sorry about that. Could be it is overcompensating, and pulling to much fuel away. I'm new to this rb3 but I'm sure I'll figure it out. Is your air sensor, in the intercooler or just outside under the hood. Shouldn't make much of a differnce but never know. Next time I'm talking to Dave, I'll have to run this bye him.
 


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