Vector oil change question

[2datrl]

I need some help.
I have a 2012 Vector, which is my first 4 stroke. Not being happy with the service that I received from my dealer at the 500 mile service, I decided to change the oil and filter myself post season.
I did scan the manual, but 1. it is confusing, and 2. I have been changing oil on cars, trucks, mowers, ATVs etc. for 40 years, so this should be a no brainer right?
I drained the oil from the tank after a warm up, changed the filter, and brought the level up to the H mark.

Tonight we went to load the sled for an upcoming trip. When i went to move the sled the warning and engine lights came on, without a code.
Checked the oil level, it was high and and there were air bubbles in the oil WTF.

So I reduced the level, started the engine, no indicator lights and loaded up on the trailer.
So... tonight I read, and re read the owners manual. I see now that I was to remove the cylinder head cap prior to draining the oil last spring which I did not do.

To my way of thinking, which could be flawed, by not removing the cap, I could have created a bit of a vacuum which did not allow for complete draining, and would explain the high oil level. Would this also explain the engine indicator lights, either due to high oil level, or lower than expected pressure due to the air in the oil?
Not wanting to ruin my sled and trip, I figure that I will bring everything that I need to do a "proper"oil change out in the parking lot of the resort if need be. But, first, I would be inclined to run the sled for 15 minutes, watch for lights, and check oil level afterwards.
I'm hoping that I can get some guidance on this, again, this is my first 4 stroke and I am still figuring things out.'
Thanks in advance.
2datrl

 

[Irv]

I need some help.
I have a 2012 Vector, which is my first 4 stroke. Not being happy with the service that I received from my dealer at the 500 mile service, I decided to change the oil and filter myself post season.
I did scan the manual, but 1. it is confusing, and 2. I have been changing oil on cars, trucks, mowers, ATVs etc. for 40 years, so this should be a no brainer right?
I drained the oil from the tank after a warm up, changed the filter, and brought the level up to the H mark.

Tonight we went to load the sled for an upcoming trip. When i went to move the sled the warning and engine lights came on, without a code.
Checked the oil level, it was high and and there were air bubbles in the oil WTF.

So I reduced the level, started the engine, no indicator lights and loaded up on the trailer.
So... tonight I read, and re read the owners manual. I see now that I was to remove the cylinder head cap prior to draining the oil last spring which I did not do.

To my way of thinking, which could be flawed, by not removing the cap, I could have created a bit of a vacuum which did not allow for complete draining, and would explain the high oil level. Would this also explain the engine indicator lights, either due to high oil level, or lower than expected pressure due to the air in the oil?
Not wanting to ruin my sled and trip, I figure that I will bring everything that I need to do a "proper"oil change out in the parking lot of the resort if need be. But, first, I would be inclined to run the sled for 15 minutes, watch for lights, and check oil level afterwards.
I'm hoping that I can get some guidance on this, again, this is my first 4 stroke and I am still figuring things out.'
Thanks in advance.
2datrl

I am not sure if the 12's are any different than the 08's, (doubt it) but I have never removed the top cap you speak of.

I always, drain the tank, the oil and the filter at the same time plus I raise the front of the sled up with a floor jack to get some extra oil out of all 3 drain spots.

I half pre-fill the filter, install all 3 plugs, add 2 ltr's of oil, start sled for a minute or two then add the remaining.

Never had an issue yet, and are you sure it was your oil warning light and not something else like low fuel?

 

[RSVECTORFREAK]

I'm not sure if yours is similar to the '05's but on mine there is also a drain bolt next to the filter that also needs to be removed along with the tank drain and oil filter. If you missed that drain that would explain the high oil level.

 

[Irv]

I'm not sure if yours is similar to the '05's but on mine there is also a drain bolt next to the filter that also needs to be removed along with the tank drain and oil filter. If you missed that drain that would explain the high oil level.

That is the main one imo and definitely needs to be drained!
It drains the oil in the engine, then remove the filter for more oil then the tank as half sits in there.

 

[Redbeard]

A 973cc (carb) Vector will hold approximately 1 pint or 16 fluid ounces of oil in the crankcase. This needs to be drained in addition to the remote reservoir and oil filter. I'm not sure about the 1050cc (efi) engine?

 

[Dara]

You do need to drain the oil from all 3 places if you change the filter.
Reservoir, filter and the little bolt beside the filter. I would think just the 2 spots if you don't change the filter.

When you run it to fill the crankcase and new filter, then top off the reservoir you should be good to go.
The bubbles are normal and settle out after it sits for a while.

I don't know what the warning lights would be for unless it was just the cold light.
I don't think there is a warning for high oil.

As far as the top cap goes, its just to let things drain quicker. I have never bothered with it.

 

[2datrl]

Thanks everybody. Heading North in the morning.
2datrl

 

[venture2]

I own a 06 Vector 973 carb version. When I change the oil / filter I run the engine & let it warm up for a few minutes before I start the job. Then I would drain the oil tank first, then remove the engine oil drain screw that is down by the filter (marked with a Triangle symbol) & loosen the screwed (black) cap on the engine head , then remove the filter. Usually I would drain 12-16 ounces of oil from the base of the engine, with the rest coming from the tank & filter, in all about 3 us quarts.

I would then fill the new filter half full of oil before installing it, pour 16 ounces into the engine Via the port on the engine head , add 2 quarts to the oil tank, start the engine for a few minutes to stabilize everything, shut down and re-check the level in the tank. usually have to add a few ounces to get it to the full mark.

I think as someone pointed out, even though its called a dry sump engine there is about 1/2 quart of oil laying in the engine crankcase, so if you add the recommended amount without draining this oil you will be overfilled . I'm not sure if the newer versions of Yamaha 4 strokes are set up the same way though.

Donc

 

[Roz]

Agree to add a little oil thu port on head. Never could figure out why the manual does not say to do this as there is some oil in crankcase. Really hate to start up a dry motor.

 

[venture2]

Your right, I don't see it in the book. My dealer suggested that I add 16 oz. oil thru the head port when doing the oil change. Makes sense after you think about it, most likely this oil is in the sump where the oil pumps take suction from, so why risk running without oil, a few seconds won't hurt but what if the pump doesn't get primed right away. I'm wondering if thats why someone said they see lots of bubbles or foaming, (I assume on the dip stick) when they first start up. Also one of the reasons I start the engine and warm it up a little before I change the oil. I don't want the engine racing (especially with a carbed / choke version) when I start up after the oil change. I guess everyone has a method they like-

venture 2