Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Im no engineer but i think it should work.
You could make the plate longer on the steering post and the tab on the spindle equally longer to keep the same ratio (when making new spindles) to increase clearance from the uprights.
You could make the plate longer on the steering post and the tab on the spindle equally longer to keep the same ratio (when making new spindles) to increase clearance from the uprights.
It looks like you also have some other clearance issues. From this photo, it looks like the locking nut on the lower heim joint /arm just barely clears the spindle at full lock. Would it even clear if that nut were a quarter turn in either direction?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The pic is deceiving, there is room.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Worked on the steering some more this evening.
The steering arm that's currently tacked in is just for mockup. I tried to get the arm the same angle as factory and tacked a brace in place to hold it.
With the tie rods raised they now clear the uprights at full lock.
Other side
I was also able to slide the rod ends all the forward in the slots. The oem rod ends are about 2" behind the lower a-arm bolts, I was able to get mine to within about 2.5".
Side view
Found my aluminum jam nuts for the rod ends and picked up some thin 3/8 washers to be able to fine tune the height of the rod ends.
I pulled the shocks and cycled the suspension. The steering post turns extremely easy by hand so nothing is binding. There also appears to be no changes in the toe. I have some more fine tuning to do but I'm definitely close.
The steering arm that's currently tacked in is just for mockup. I tried to get the arm the same angle as factory and tacked a brace in place to hold it.
With the tie rods raised they now clear the uprights at full lock.
Other side
I was also able to slide the rod ends all the forward in the slots. The oem rod ends are about 2" behind the lower a-arm bolts, I was able to get mine to within about 2.5".
Side view
Found my aluminum jam nuts for the rod ends and picked up some thin 3/8 washers to be able to fine tune the height of the rod ends.
I pulled the shocks and cycled the suspension. The steering post turns extremely easy by hand so nothing is binding. There also appears to be no changes in the toe. I have some more fine tuning to do but I'm definitely close.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Not much time spent on the sled today but managed to fab the steering arm. It's .090 4130. Once it's welded to the post it will get boxed in with .040.
Factory rod ends are about 1-3/8 c to c
I ended up about 1-1/2".
Hopefully I can get it welded to the post tomorrow and start boxing it in.
Factory rod ends are about 1-3/8 c to c
I ended up about 1-1/2".
Hopefully I can get it welded to the post tomorrow and start boxing it in.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Added a couple .040 ribs to the bottom of the steering arm and then added a 1/4" tube to help reduce flex. There's only about 3 ounces total into the steering arm so far but there's still some torsional flex if I try and twist the rod ends so I'll have to figure out some kind of additional brace.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
From my understanding, as you use suspension travel the skis should toe out slightly.
Its like when you lower a car, the wheels always toe out.
I feel they intentionally design this in (for cars at least), so when you hit bumps it increases stability.
Maybe it doesn't apply to snowmobiles, I've never checked!
Its like when you lower a car, the wheels always toe out.
I feel they intentionally design this in (for cars at least), so when you hit bumps it increases stability.
Maybe it doesn't apply to snowmobiles, I've never checked!
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Beenba
It doesn't. On sleds it really depends on the OEM's geometry. In the case of the skidoo XM, it had toe in thru the suspension stroke and reduced stability at speed, but with the T3 and RAS-2, it now has toes out through the cycle.....thanks to new spindles and A-Arms.
Toe out is definitely a plus in terms of stability, but it is not so easy to achieve. Things like CG and roll center play a part too which may make you think twice about toe out. I've been putting a new front end on my Nytro now for two years and I've decide a slight toe in is better than adversely changing roll center too much.
For what it's worth...the Nytro (after 2010) has almost no bump steer....which is pretty impressive. The problem tho is it also had it's CG too high and roll center too far apart which adversely affected handling. Fix these problems and you have a much improved Nytro!!!!
OTM
It doesn't. On sleds it really depends on the OEM's geometry. In the case of the skidoo XM, it had toe in thru the suspension stroke and reduced stability at speed, but with the T3 and RAS-2, it now has toes out through the cycle.....thanks to new spindles and A-Arms.
Toe out is definitely a plus in terms of stability, but it is not so easy to achieve. Things like CG and roll center play a part too which may make you think twice about toe out. I've been putting a new front end on my Nytro now for two years and I've decide a slight toe in is better than adversely changing roll center too much.
For what it's worth...the Nytro (after 2010) has almost no bump steer....which is pretty impressive. The problem tho is it also had it's CG too high and roll center too far apart which adversely affected handling. Fix these problems and you have a much improved Nytro!!!!
OTM
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
^Thanks for sharing, good info to know!
kennyspec
Expert
Updates!!??!!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Took today to reorganize. Pulled the subframe & engine. I'm going try really hard to be ready to roll by August.
My focus for now is to finish up the tunnel, bulkhead, & subframe. This will include
- porting/trimming the bulkhead
- new mounts for the RMK skid
- removing the tunnel skin & cooler
- cutting out sections of the tunnel above the cooler for weight reduction
- cutting/grinding off the battery bracket
- finishing welding the tunnel frame
- painting the skin to eliminate snow buildup
- installing a new heat shield
- replacing any steel fasteners w/ solid rivets
- lightweight coolant hose clamps
Subframe
- tie rod boot mounts
- trim the upper steering block mount
- finish welding the lower mount
- some weight reduction
- sandblasting & fresh paint job
Will post pics with progress.
I bought CR Racing's shock bearing kit to install into my floats and I'm taking the a-arms to work to sandblast so I can paint them and get the oil lite bushings installed so the front end will be done.
My focus for now is to finish up the tunnel, bulkhead, & subframe. This will include
- porting/trimming the bulkhead
- new mounts for the RMK skid
- removing the tunnel skin & cooler
- cutting out sections of the tunnel above the cooler for weight reduction
- cutting/grinding off the battery bracket
- finishing welding the tunnel frame
- painting the skin to eliminate snow buildup
- installing a new heat shield
- replacing any steel fasteners w/ solid rivets
- lightweight coolant hose clamps
Subframe
- tie rod boot mounts
- trim the upper steering block mount
- finish welding the lower mount
- some weight reduction
- sandblasting & fresh paint job
Will post pics with progress.
I bought CR Racing's shock bearing kit to install into my floats and I'm taking the a-arms to work to sandblast so I can paint them and get the oil lite bushings installed so the front end will be done.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
This sled will not be forgotten!!! Progress will start again Monday. That is all.
I needed to post so I commit myself to finishing it.
I needed to post so I commit myself to finishing it.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
3 Mondays later 
mike g
Extreme
3 Mondays later
He didn't say which Monday.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Had to order a few tools. Once the Dremel shows up I'll start really porting the bulkhead and shaving any extra material off the motor & subframe.
I don't know when I'll finish it, but it will be rideable one Monday. I have too much time invested to let it go to waste and I really want the personal reward of riding it.
I don't know when I'll finish it, but it will be rideable one Monday. I have too much time invested to let it go to waste and I really want the personal reward of riding it.